Lock ring issues
07-23-05, 12:41 PM
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Lock ring issues
i'm pretty new to fixed gear riding and i'm in the process of learning different methods of stopping. the trouble i'm having is with my lock ring. no matter how tight i get it, it doesn't hold my rear cog in tightly. it always comes loose.
what can i do to keep this from happening?
what can i do to keep this from happening?
07-25-05, 10:06 AM
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Use pipe thread compound on your cog and lockring. If still loose with both tight, then put locktite on the lockring instead of the pipe thread compound. Make sure to use a spanner or lockring wrench to tighten.
07-25-05, 10:25 PM
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the hub is a Quando Flip-flop hub
the lock ring is aluminum i think. i want to replace it with a steel one when i get the chance. same with the cog. i don't trust aluminum when that much pressure is being put on it.
another question: the gear ratio my bike came with is 48/16 with 170mm crank arms, or may they're 175mm(either way they're too long) i want to replace them with 165mm crank arms and upgrade to a higher gear( the higher gear because i start bouncing when i get to peddling too fast). any sugestions?
the lock ring is aluminum i think. i want to replace it with a steel one when i get the chance. same with the cog. i don't trust aluminum when that much pressure is being put on it.
another question: the gear ratio my bike came with is 48/16 with 170mm crank arms, or may they're 175mm(either way they're too long) i want to replace them with 165mm crank arms and upgrade to a higher gear( the higher gear because i start bouncing when i get to peddling too fast). any sugestions?
Last edited by BenPlowGuy; 07-25-05 at 10:30 PM.
07-26-05, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by BenPlowGuy
the hub is a Quando Flip-flop hub
07-27-05, 12:58 PM
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Alu lockring? Oh, nonononono.
Let's just check that you're using the standard procedure for getting the sprocket and lockring on: first screw on the sprocket and do it up *really* tight. Use a chain whip or stomp the pedals. Then screw the lockring on - backwards - and get that tight too. Tight means use a lockring spanner or use a hammer and punch.
If your lockring screws onto the same thread as the sprocket, then it's not a proper lockring. That's some BMX abomination. Use Loctite blue thread-lock on the sprocket, leave it overnight to dry, and throw that alu lockring in the recycler.
Let's just check that you're using the standard procedure for getting the sprocket and lockring on: first screw on the sprocket and do it up *really* tight. Use a chain whip or stomp the pedals. Then screw the lockring on - backwards - and get that tight too. Tight means use a lockring spanner or use a hammer and punch.
If your lockring screws onto the same thread as the sprocket, then it's not a proper lockring. That's some BMX abomination. Use Loctite blue thread-lock on the sprocket, leave it overnight to dry, and throw that alu lockring in the recycler.
07-27-05, 05:10 PM
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Even on a cheap hub, your lockring shouldn't come loose. Cog threadings and lockring threadings can be of several different types. In cog/hub threading, you want to match BSC to BSC (that's British Standard) and in lockrings, your choices are typically Shimano (another BSC threading), Campy (aka "Italian," same as Phil Wood), and Mavic (aka "French"). You may be mismatching your cog and hub, and your cog won't go farther by hand because the threads are jamming up; under pedal power, they move a little farther. Your lockring can only come loose if your cog isn't down all the way or in rare circumstances if the lockring isn't the right thread (but the mismatch is pretty obvious).
Oh, and some hubs have threading that's wider than the width of the cog, so your cog goes on just like it should, all the way, but there's still a lip before you drop down to the lockring reversed thread. In this case, you should end up cranking the lockring hard against the lip, which will hold it in place anyway, although the cog may loosen up a bit. Inspect for this and if it's the case, get a bottom bracket spacer ring (they come in various thicknesses so find one that fills the gap) or try another cog. As others have said here, you have a budget hub and don't want to invest much in it, but it should work all the same.
Oh, and some hubs have threading that's wider than the width of the cog, so your cog goes on just like it should, all the way, but there's still a lip before you drop down to the lockring reversed thread. In this case, you should end up cranking the lockring hard against the lip, which will hold it in place anyway, although the cog may loosen up a bit. Inspect for this and if it's the case, get a bottom bracket spacer ring (they come in various thicknesses so find one that fills the gap) or try another cog. As others have said here, you have a budget hub and don't want to invest much in it, but it should work all the same.
