seejohnbike

So, I was just wondering. Aside from doing what feels appropriate, I don't think i've ever heard (and tried a quick search for the topic and didn't yield the best results) what an ideal saddle setback is for a track bike.

on a roadbike, the traditional KOPS method seems to work (at the least, it gives a good starting reference), however, given the more aggressive angles on a track bike, that method goes out the window.

Is there a mnemonic to get track setback right, or is it pretty much by feel?

bitingduck

Depends on how you ride and the particular bike, but for the most part probably start pretty close to your road position and tweak from there. there are plenty of threads pointing out that many (most?) endurance racers use a pretty roadlike setup. People act like track riders don't spend a lot of time on the bike, but there are plenty of people who spend many hours at a time on the track.

seejohnbike

i mean, I get that your road position is close to your track position, but in terms of geometry alone, each degree increase in seat tube angle equates to approximately 1cm less saddle setback. Track geo is more aggressive, in that the steeper angles rotate your entire body forward. If you were to put your saddle back in the typical road position, you will effectively increase your reach, but also have to double yourself over a bit more to fit the track drops. If you were to shorten your stem, and perhaps raise the bars, then you're effectively riding road bike geo, on the track...

also, I forget where I read it, but IIRC, the typical road saddle setback isn't as conducive to spinning the higher cadences associated with track racing. Hence the steeper angles/less setback.

So, for example, if your track bike has a 1 degree steeper seat tube than your road bike, will your measurements be similar, with approximately 1 cm less saddle setback (and knee approximately 1 cm infront of pedal spindle), or what?

Baby Puke

You'll have to experiment and see what works for you. A lot of people say that forward is better, and indeed it is EASIER to spin faster this way, but you might lose some power. My saddles are slammed back all the way on my track bikes. Your milage may vary, but check out the positions of the top pros and I think you won't see too many with way forward positions. Of course here I'm talking about a sprinter-type position, so this will also depend on what kind of racing you want to do.

bitingduck

You're overthinking it. You can just about ignore the tubes and angles and just put your points of contact with the bike the same relative to each other as on the road and everything else will take care of itself. then tweak as needed.

And why adjust your saddle to get to the handlebars? adjust the bars and stem to put them where your hands want to be.

never really noticed. back when I spent a lot of time on the rollers when I lived in a place with winter I could do high rpm on the road bike with no trouble.

I suspect most people ride pretty close to KOPS. I don't inspect people very often, but that seems to be the general starting point.