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"Dear Carleton"

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Old 10-03-11, 09:51 AM
  #1326  
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Originally Posted by carleton
That's new to me.

Are you eating properly? Also, "hydration" is more than just water. You need electrolytes. But, for gym work, you shouldn't be depleted of electrolytes if you eat decently.
I don't eat the best. lots of cereal and turkey sandwiches lol, but I do take a multivitamin and use a protein supplement that has a good amount of vitamins.
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Old 10-03-11, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by theblackbullet
I don't eat the best. lots of cereal and turkey sandwiches lol, but I do take a multivitamin and use a protein supplement that has a good amount of vitamins.
I'm not sure what's up.
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Old 10-03-11, 05:55 PM
  #1328  
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Originally Posted by carleton
Spend money to solve problems.

If you don't have a problem with the current post, then why spend the money?
I always have to tell myself this. It's tempting to get a Thomson (moving from a 1 1/2 pound Kalin), but it's just really not worth it. I'll save the $100 for something else.
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Old 10-04-11, 12:16 AM
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Dear Carleton,

I recently purchased some used Shimano Dura Ace SPD-SL pedals and was looking into clipless shoes. From my understanding, you've tried a lot of different pedals/shoe combinations. Are there any road shoe models you recommend for people on a budget? Sorry if this is too much of a personal-shopper question, it just seemed like you've had a lot of experience.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-04-11, 12:40 AM
  #1330  
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shimano covers the price range $100+ and is available everywhere. As stated many times before, try them on before buying them.

/personal shopper
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Old 10-04-11, 12:41 AM
  #1331  
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Originally Posted by dk2ck
Dear Carleton,

I recently purchased some used Shimano Dura Ace SPD-SL pedals and was looking into clipless shoes. From my understanding, you've tried a lot of different pedals/shoe combinations. Are there any road shoe models you recommend for people on a budget? Sorry if this is too much of a personal-shopper question, it just seemed like you've had a lot of experience.

Thanks for the help!
Congrats on the pedals.

It is too much of a personal-shopper question.

Shimano makes some good shoes from inexpensive to expensive range.
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Old 10-04-11, 12:43 AM
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Thank you (and Deputy Hairnet) for the brand recommendations!
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Old 10-04-11, 07:09 AM
  #1333  
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Originally Posted by dk2ck
Thank you (and Deputy Hairnet) for the brand recommendations!
I just want to add that some brands (Serfas, Bontrager) offer a return policy that allows you to try out the shoes risk-free for 30 days. I went with Serfas for this reason and I am very happy with my Pilot shoes (MSRP $130). I suggest going to your LBS to try on as many different shoes as you can. Comfort is most important. Also, get some cleat covers.
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Old 10-04-11, 08:34 AM
  #1334  
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Mavic has some really nice shoes in the $130 range.
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Old 10-04-11, 09:44 AM
  #1335  
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Dear Carleton:

What is the most expensive article of clothing that you've purchased for cycling?
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Old 10-04-11, 09:48 AM
  #1336  
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Originally Posted by mashtofu
I just want to add that some brands (Serfas, Bontrager) offer a return policy that allows you to try out the shoes risk-free for 30 days. I went with Serfas for this reason and I am very happy with my Pilot shoes (MSRP $130). I suggest going to your LBS to try on as many different shoes as you can. Comfort is most important. Also, get some cleat covers.
This x54830958230498234
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Old 10-04-11, 10:42 AM
  #1337  
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Originally Posted by Lilcphoto
Dear Carleton:

What is the most expensive article of clothing that you've purchased for cycling?


Fizik R1

For me, they feel like custom shoes.

I got a nice discount, but still came out pricey. Worth every penny.
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Old 10-04-11, 11:24 AM
  #1338  
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Carleton,

What do I need to measure in order to determine what size bars I need (width)? I'm assuming just armpit to armpit?
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Old 10-04-11, 11:49 AM
  #1339  
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Shoulder to shoulder
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Old 10-04-11, 11:54 AM
  #1340  
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Belly button to butthole.
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Old 10-04-11, 11:56 AM
  #1341  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Belly button to butthole.


i lol'd
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Old 10-04-11, 12:57 PM
  #1342  
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Originally Posted by Jaytron
Carleton,

What do I need to measure in order to determine what size bars I need (width)? I'm assuming just armpit to armpit?
Unfortunately, there is no exact way to determine this. It's sort of like crank arm length...go with what feels right.

Go into a shop and sit on bikes with various width bars then buy from the bike shop. That's why they are there.

If you want to save money by buying online, then you must assume the risk of buying the wrong sized bar.

You have to decide if the money you save is worth the risk.
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Old 10-04-11, 02:35 PM
  #1343  
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How often do you replace your shoes and why? Is it just the tops of the shoes stretching out or something else?
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Old 10-05-11, 06:00 PM
  #1344  
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Dear Carleton,
Can you do this on your rollers?
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Old 10-05-11, 07:16 PM
  #1345  
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Originally Posted by prooftheory
How often do you replace your shoes and why? Is it just the tops of the shoes stretching out or something else?
Yeah, usually it's because the uppers are stretched to death. Also, somehow the shoes just become more mushy in general. New shoes feel fresh and firm. You don't really notice it until you put on some new shoes and realize how soft your old ones had become.
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Old 10-05-11, 09:35 PM
  #1346  
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Dear Carlton,

How much does weight play a part in the life span of rear hub threads? I've stripped threads 3 times just this summer. they're all-city standard track hubs and I am positive its not an installation issue. I'm pretty hefty at about 230, and I normally skid positioned over the seat. Any thoughts? thanks in advance.
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Old 10-05-11, 09:40 PM
  #1347  
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it's the skidding and not getting your cog super damn mother f-ing tight. I weight 200lbs and routinely carry my bag with plenty stuff in it. I stripped one hub because I didnt get the cog tight enough even though I thought I had. Scrod is also a heavy guy riding brakeless without issues ,on the same hubs, I believe.
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Old 10-05-11, 09:45 PM
  #1348  
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rota fix, and lock ring tool and then get some lock ring pliers and grip the lock ring tight, take a hammer, light tap. Make sure you dont apply too much heavy grease, use a light coat of a strong grease.
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Old 10-05-11, 09:46 PM
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Hmm After it happened the first two times I've been trying to keep the cog tight by setting up against a wall and putting pressure down on the pedal, then tightening the lock ring. I did that about every other ride. should I rotafix it instead next time?

Thanks evilcryalotmore. just saw your reply
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Old 10-05-11, 10:02 PM
  #1350  
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Originally Posted by hairnet
it's the skidding and not getting your cog super damn mother f-ing tight. I weight 200lbs and routinely carry my bag with plenty stuff in it. I stripped one hub because I didnt get the cog tight enough even though I thought I had. Scrod is also a heavy guy riding brakeless without issues ,on the same hubs, I believe.
+1

Originally Posted by evilcryalotmore
rota fix, and lock ring tool and then get some lock ring pliers and grip the lock ring tight, take a hammer, light tap. Make sure you dont apply too much heavy grease, use a light coat of a strong grease.
-1



Originally Posted by Mr. Grey
Hmm After it happened the first two times I've been trying to keep the cog tight by setting up against a wall and putting pressure down on the pedal, then tightening the lock ring. I did that about every other ride. should I rotafix it instead next time?

Thanks evilcryalotmore. just saw your reply
No. Don't rotafix anything.

Man, I'm over 230lbs and I put a hellish amount of torque on my hubs during standing starts and have never had a problem. I would guess that you need a higher quality hub. Higher quality stuff isn't just expensive because it's a name brand. Some of it is just straight up stronger. I suggest using a Dura Ace rear hub for your next build.
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