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Old 11-06-15, 08:22 AM
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yes that crankset is 144 bcd so you're good!
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Old 11-06-15, 02:22 PM
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sooner or later you'll want more than just a 52t or 48t chainring. You'll want a full range, at least 48-51t.
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Old 11-06-15, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Impreza_aL
yes that crankset is 144 bcd so you're good!
Oh that's good.
Also I'm having problem with chainline.
So the chain is not straight because of my crank or bb(Current chainline is about 46mm?)
Does the chainline matters a lot?
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Old 11-06-15, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkWW
sooner or later you'll want more than just a 52t or 48t chainring. You'll want a full range, at least 48-51t.
Yes
I'm trying to get more chainrings and cogs for my track bike
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Old 11-06-15, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gycho77
Yes
I'm trying to get more chainrings and cogs for my track bike
Refer to the first post in this thread regarding a suggested order in which to buy chainrings and cogs: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ack-racer.html

You will not need a full kit on day 1 at the track. 48t, 49t, 15t, 16t will get you through your first couple of months and add a 50t and you could finish the entire season.
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Old 11-07-15, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by carleton
Refer to the first post in this thread regarding a suggested order in which to buy chainrings and cogs: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ack-racer.html

You will not need a full kit on day 1 at the track. 48t, 49t, 15t, 16t will get you through your first couple of months and add a 50t and you could finish the entire season.

IIRC, gycho77 mentioned wanting to go to Georgia Tech, which means (s)he is a junior and subject to gear restrictions.

Track Gear Restrictions:
Ages 17-18: Unrestricted
Ages 15-16: 6.78 meters (22'3")(48x15)
Ages 13-14: 6.36 meters (20'10.5")(48x16)
Ages 10-12: 6.00 meters (198)(48x17)

Your Racing Age is defined as your age on January 1st.


Also for a new racer starting fresh, I would recommend a single chainring (48t) and one cog (15t). Basically, the standard junior gear. After that I would get more cogs: 14t, 16t, and then maybe even a 13t to provide a broad range of gear ratios. Finally, additional chainrings to fill in the gaps, if needed. The alternative is to buy a track bag and then buy every chainring and cog combination possible to fill it up. I think my bag has close to a grand's worth of cogs and rings.
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Old 11-07-15, 05:51 AM
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Thank you everyone.
Your advice helped me a lot.
I will try my best to get those chainrings and cog

Last edited by gycho77; 11-07-15 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 11-07-15, 10:29 AM
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I would recommend at least a warm-up gear (48x16) on top of that single race/training gear. Your knees will thank you later.
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Old 11-07-15, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke
I would recommend at least a warm-up gear (48x16) on top of that single race/training gear. Your knees will thank you later.
So many things to buy
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Old 11-07-15, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gycho77
So many things to buy
One cog (16t), one chainring (48t). That doesn't seem too bad to me.
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Old 11-07-15, 06:55 PM
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Buy the cheap stuff (in regards to cogs/rings). They are something that doesn't get overly better with price, and makes a huge difference
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Old 11-07-15, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by gycho77
So many things to buy

I can make it simple for you. Show up at Ttown next May for the Saturday races or the first Try the Track class with whatever chainring and cog that your bike has and I'll lend you other sizes to see what works for you. After that you can buy what you need.
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Old 11-07-15, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke
One cog (16t), one chainring (48t). That doesn't seem too bad to me.
I don't have a job. So I have limited budget
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Old 11-07-15, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dunderhi
I can make it simple for you. Show up at Ttown next May for the Saturday races or the first Try the Track class with whatever chainring and cog that your bike has and I'll lend you other sizes to see what works for you. After that you can buy what you need.
Wow that will be amazing.
Thank you!
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Old 11-07-15, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by gtrob
Buy the cheap stuff (in regards to cogs/rings). They are something that doesn't get overly better with price, and makes a huge difference
Maybe I should get fas chainring and shimano cog
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Old 11-08-15, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gycho77
I don't have a job. So I have limited budget
I buy much of my equipment on EBay. Just keep watching and bargains turn up.

Can you get a part time job, or do odd jobs, to earn some money?
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Old 11-09-15, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by gycho77
I don't have a job. So I have limited budget
I hate to break it to you, but you'll need some money to get a basic set of equipment and pay race fees. Start planning now.

It's not an inexpensive sport like basketball.
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Old 11-09-15, 10:20 AM
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I want to get a part time job, but it is impossible. I don't have a SSN. So it's illegal. However, I'm trying to find a way to earn money legally. Also I have money for race fee
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Old 11-09-15, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Spoonrobot
It's not illegal to get a job with no SSN.
Oh!!! Thank you
My parent always told me that it was illegal.
Also I found out that I just need an EAD to work.
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Old 11-09-15, 05:51 PM
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If riding USAC sanctioned events you will need a racing license (This year cost is $35 under 18 and younger, $70 age 19 and up) I do not now the requirements for racing in ATRA sanctioned events.
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Old 11-09-15, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 700wheel
If riding USAC sanctioned events you will need a racing license (This year cost is $35 under 18 and younger, $70 age 19 and up) I do not now the requirements for racing in ATRA sanctioned events.
I already purchased my UCI license
I cannot wait for my second track race
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Old 11-10-15, 08:05 AM
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Guys, is there any advantage to having a front four spoke, over say a Campy Pista? Outdoor or indoor
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Old 11-10-15, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Murakami
Guys, is there any advantage to having a front four spoke, over say a Campy Pista? Outdoor or indoor
It depends on the wheel, but generally, a front four spoke is more aerodynamic than a traditionally-spoked wheel. More aerodynamic means that you don't have to work as hard to push the air out of the way. Which means that you go faster for a given level of effort.
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Old 11-10-15, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by queerpunk
It depends on the wheel, but generally, a front four spoke is more aerodynamic than a traditionally-spoked wheel. More aerodynamic means that you don't have to work as hard to push the air out of the way. Which means that you go faster for a given level of effort.
Thanks. I bought a Corima four spoke awhile back, but the hub has debonded and it's irreparable. I'm just wondering if it's worth my while doling out another lump of money when I've already got the Pistas.
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Old 11-10-15, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Murakami
Thanks. I bought a Corima four spoke awhile back, but the hub has debonded and it's irreparable. I'm just wondering if it's worth my while doling out another lump of money when I've already got the Pistas.
When you start losing by fractions of a second, then consider investing in aero wheels.

If you are losing by full seconds, the wheels won't buy you much.

All of the things mentioned on this list before a front wheel will make you faster than a front wheel.

https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...l#post14849124
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