AXE would definitely make me "THAT guy" that everyone dreads being behind in the paceline, hahahaha

I'll try the baking soda first (because I have it on hand) and if that doesn't work, I'll try the shampoo.

Thanks!

Try putting it in the freezer first, I think that’s what “they” recommend when your jeans start smelling but you don’t want to wash ‘em...

Pictures? How are they shearing? Are you removing material? What bike and what material are the drops made of?

The skinsuit funk is bacteria. Synthetic fabrics (some more than others), seem to be able to harbour bacteria better than natural fibers. Basically, wicking fabrics also attract your skin/skin oils onto the fabric. These bacteria feed on them, and the bacteria are pretty tough to remove, so you have to try to kill the bacteria, AND "degrease" your clothes.

Some solutions to kill the bacteria:

Freezing - try to kill the bacteria that way
Change the pH - baking soda OR vinegar may work, you may need to try both
Use an enzyme wash - Mirazyme is good https://www.rei.com/product/694530/g...dor-eliminator. It literally breaks the bacteria apart. I've used this on shoes, tents, and carpet and it's always worked.

To "degrease" your clothes regular detergent won't work. You'll have to use a cleaner that breaks down grease/oil. Lysol Kitchen and Bath works well. You can dilute it to 10% with hot water, and soak the garments before you wash them. Use a 5Gal bucket to do this so that you can stir and agitate the garment to make sure that it is fully saturated, or just let it soak in your machine. Let soak, rinse, and then wash as normal.

Another thing to think about is sanitizing your wash machine every once in a while. Run an small empty load in there of diluted Spray 9. Your wash machine never fully extracts all the water after a cycle, and this leaves a wet/musty environment for bacteria to thrive in the recesses of the machine.

I wear synthetic wicking shirts for 8-10 hours a day (high viz stuff). My shirts get hit hard with oil/sweat/mechanical greases. I have 5 each of undershirts and Hi-Viz, and just throw them in the hamper at the end of the day. I probably have to run through a cycle of all my syntheitcs with Lysol in the machine about once every 1.5-2 months.

Nah, this doesn't work. I tried this with a helmet, and a bike racing scientist I know said, "yeah, freezing. that's what we do to preserve the similar bacteria we work with in the lab. won't kill 'em." Sure enough, my helmet still smelled bad. Vinegar worked though.

Also, when you wash them, double rinse it.

Detergent sticks to synthetic fabrics more than natural, and it will sometimes hold odors on.

Thanks, everyone. I'll keep you posted. I have 2 that I bought at the same time and are in the same condition. I can A/B test the techniques and report back.

99% Isopropyl is cheaper and stronger.

I've used this stuff on baselayers and synthetics before and works really well. Maybe about 10 washes to a bottle

https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5028-5...ee-Sports-Wash

Best aero track crankset?

since the gains to be had by an aero crankset over a nonaero one are extremely marginal to the point of being indecipherable, aero cranksets aren't in common use at all so i don't think there's anything approaching consensus on what's the best.

I can say as someone with one...I notice zero difference.

100% bought because it looks swish. If it looks fast, it must be fast ;)

Either the look one-piece or the bf1 systems used by GB/Aus.
Or you could change practically anything else and save more watts

This is an old question, probably one that many of you have not considered since you were new in the sport: Step in pedals: float or no float? I've been on old style clips and straps and this is new (again) to me. I was assuming no float, but then with setting up my new shoes my LBS did not have the no float cleats, and I'm stuck with 4.5˚ for now. But I kinda like it. Is this wrong? What are the arguments against float for a sprinter?

Vision track crankset. Not made of unobtainium like the other sexy cranksets

No-float.

Every track sprinter that I've noticed uses no-float cleats. Male or female, elite or masters, national level and above, the sprinters all used no-float cleats. You can spot them. Shimano 0-float cleats have red "pontoons" (rubber grippy things on the outside of the cleat). The LOOK 0-float cleats are black.

This is probably the best answer.

They are inexpensive and currently being used by the fastest men's Team Sprint team in the world right now.

They don't have the history of reliability or pedigree of Sugino, Dura Ace, or SRM. So, no one knows how well they age being that they are new.

With that being said, "aero" cranks will not make one faster. Between the dirty air coming off of the front wheel, the turbulence added by the down tube, the legs and feet churning along side and above the cranks, a tapered edge here and there will simply go unnoticed.

...but, advertising cranks as being aero is a great way to sell cranks :D

I know this is the sprinter consensus, I'm just interested in if others are bucking this trend and if so, why? I'm liking the feel at top-end roller leg speeds, though I have no idea whether this would translate to the track. I may very well go back to fixed, but since they are on here and not feeling weird to me, I was curious.

Float. I had this discussion with my bike fitter who is very very good with all this stuff when I turned up for my custom frame fit with fixed cleats. Basically he said you don't use fixed unless you have your position totally and utterly dialed in. Otherwise fixed will cause you more problems physically than they're worth. I guess sprinters aren't really on the bike long enough to see too much damage from their use. I did notice some minor knee discomfort disappear once I went to float vs fixed on my road shoes after that discussion

I beg to differ. Improperly adjusted 0-float or float cleats will cause issues.

This is the same thinking that has people saying that "Squats will give you knee problems!" No. Improper squats will give you knee problems as any exercise done improperly

In my experience, it takes about 15 to 30 minutes of trial, error, and patience to properly dial in a set of 0-float cleats on my shoes. Maybe some bike fitters don't want to spend that much time of the session doing that?

I use 0-float for track and road. I toss the yellow cleats that come with new pedals :D


On a related note: Look for the red 0-float cleats in this Tour De France gallery. They aren't just for track sprinters.
Tour de France shoes gallery - BikeRadar

Well, if Contador is using the fixed cleats, then who am I ...

i by and large agree. my entry in this conversation is this: it depends on how much of The Princess And The Pea you are. I know that if I used no-float cleats, I'd constantly be tinkering with my cleat position and it would make me unhappy. Whereas with cleats with float, it's a lot easier to get it in the ballpark.

I don't move my feet when I'm clipped in - I don't really take advantage of the float. It's not like it leaves you feeling all loosey-goosey. But if gives you some wiggle room to find that perfect foot/knee/hip position in your stroke.

I want to clarify.

My points are basically:

- At the end of the day, it's a personal preference. Whatever works for you and gives you confidence.
- 0-float cleats aren't more dangerous. They simply provide fewer foot position options.
- Improperly adjusted cleats of varying degrees of float may cause injury.
- I believe that wide float ranges simply allow for riders/fitters to get a cleat in the general vicinity of the best position and let the rider settle in from there. It literally provides wiggle room.

...to not used fixed cleats and eat clenbuterol tainted meat.

Precisely!

The Vision and Rotor cranks were at the top of my shortlist, so thanks :)

I'm building a new A bike, so I need new cranks...I'm not thinking of 'upgrading' my Omnium cranks on my B bike.

I always ride red shimano cleats. Easy way to get them "right" is to jump on the trainer with the cleats only semi-snugged down. (enough that they don't freely move, but that there is still the possibility of movement in them.) Then spin for about 10-15 minutes. Your foot will find where it wants to be... then have significant other/friend/somebody take a silver sharpie and mark where the cleats end up. Get off and line them back up, tighten down.

We used to fit people's cleats using the RAD cleat alignment system... then we realized this method did the same thing with less expensive equipment.

I moved to Speedplay aero zero's recently... still having a hard time with the inherent float in them (even when the bolts are tightened down to 0 float, they still move way more than my shimanos) and they are much more annoying to set up.

As for aero cranks... at low yaw like you see on track, there likely isn't much measurable benefit. The cheaper option that allows you to run a wider (arguably nicer) variety of cranks is just to buy some aero chainrings.
Zen/FSA/Aerocoach/etc aero rings on my SRM science is basically a flat piece, and I don't have to put up with a Rotor/FSA crank/bb

Brawlo, are you a sprinter? Is your fitter familiar with the needs of track sprinters? How are standing starts with the float for you?

This is kinda what I'm wondering about. More backstory, I had a knee injury that required surgery when I was a junior and since then the corresponding foot is never completely happy with whatever position it's locked into. I'm wondering if float might help this foot find it's ideal position, and I'm also wondering if there is really just one perfect position or for a semi-wonky leg.

My fitter is very familiar with the requirements of a sprinter and was a high level (enduro) track racer in his day. Standing starts with the float are absolutely fine. I have never ever pulled a foot. That includes countless bike standing starts in racing and training before I adopted straps. That also includes thousands of trainer starts with a Kurt Kinetic and more recently a Kickr. When I was fitted for my custom frame, the fitter used the Retul system. You can see in real time the various movements and tracking that body parts take as you pedal. My fitter is of the opinion (very well backed by science and experience) that the only time a fixed cleat should be used is when the position is perfectly dialed in, and only then if the rider's pedaling action will accommodate the fixed position via a very linear and smooth action.

I'm a relative gumby in this game. I believe everyone is different and I am just passing on the wisdom of someone that has a mountain of experience more than me.

Cool, great info, thanks Brawlo!