Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#26
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BB7700 is very hard to get these days in English thread. Most/all are Italian threading... Learned that the hard way..
#27
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#28
Senior Member
I have Pista Evo CL's on my double discs. I personally can't feel the difference and find the Vittoria Corsa Evo CX's a great compromise as they wear really well on concrete. I'm pretty sure I am on the same rear tyre on the old Zipp disc now for a couple of years...
#29
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Octalink
You can also use the Ultegra or 105 Octalink BB.
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830608710.pdf
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830608710.pdf
#30
VeloSIRraptor
Ultegras work very well and don't have the susceptibility to side-loading issues that needle-bearing'd DAs do.
That said, the Ultegras are also getting trickier to find.
That said, the Ultegras are also getting trickier to find.
#31
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
What are your collective thoughts on FSA chainrings? I think I've asked this before and the general consensus was they were "fine" at what point are they "not good enough"?
#32
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- Round
- Strong
- Lightweight
It must be Round and Strong to be good enough. A Round but weak chainring is unacceptable (it will become un-round after a while). A non-round but strong chainring is unacceptable.
When you add lightweight, that is even better...and maufacturers know this and charge you more.
Compare the FSA Pro chainrings with the Sugino ZEN. Both are very round and very strong and feature a solid disc style for strength.


The Zen has material carefully removed from the back side to add the "lightweight" component. This process costs more to do.

Compare that to the rear of the solid FSA:

So, Round and Strong are good enough. Lightweight is a bonus.
There are other great chainring options out there. I just used those two as examples that look and function very similarly but one is double the cost of the other.
Last edited by carleton; 12-05-13 at 03:08 PM.
#33
VeloSIRraptor
*nevermind, Theo used FSA rings for at least one of his championships.... so, there you are.
Other rings are rounder, lighter, and better looking - but you'll never actually "need" better.
Tela Crane (current US Sprint champ) uses them by the bag full, you'll be fine unless you "want" to spend more.
#34
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When you have the watts of Theo Bos, and are at the level of a world championship final.
*nevermind, Theo used FSA rings for at least one of his championships.... so, there you are.
Other rings are rounder, lighter, and better looking - but you'll never actually "need" better.
Tela Crane (current US Sprint champ) uses them by the bag full, you'll be fine unless you "want" to spend more.
*nevermind, Theo used FSA rings for at least one of his championships.... so, there you are.
Other rings are rounder, lighter, and better looking - but you'll never actually "need" better.
Tela Crane (current US Sprint champ) uses them by the bag full, you'll be fine unless you "want" to spend more.
For any racer that is buying his own gear, FSA should definitely be an option (just like B-123/125 should be an option for a sprinter on a budget). Buying a full kit of chainrings is EXPENSIVE. A full kit would be 45-51t (give or take). A normal kit would be 47-50t.
#36
Senior Member
I have a partial set of DA rings I'm working on expanding, but as Carleton said, rings are expensive. The FSAs will be in service for a good while longer.
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#37
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#38
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Wait a minute!
Do you mean to tell me, that after pages of post making me look stupid- I'm the only one of the 2 of us who has tried both big/big and small/small???
Do you mean to tell me, that after pages of post making me look stupid- I'm the only one of the 2 of us who has tried both big/big and small/small???

#40
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__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#43
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i use zen and campy (cut out only) i can't tell the difference between the two.
fsa have ugly decals and teeth. i would anodize them.
Last edited by Impreza_aL; 12-05-13 at 07:22 PM.
#45
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Shopping around for some DA cranks and BB-7710 bottom bracket. Carleton probably knows the answer right off the bat with his Tiemeyer collection, but what size bb do I need for my Tiemeyer Signature track frame? I've seen posts of 68x109.5 and 68x110. Just want to make sure I get the correct size. Thanks!
#47
Senior Member
88mm rims to wide flange hubs? I'm pretty sure this was a bad idea because of the increased angle of the spokes to the rim but I'm stuffed if I can find where it was discussed before. Should I be going for low flange hubs?
#48
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since then i have seen plenty of sets laced to deep flange.. including the ones built at the factory in china.. a buddy of mine did HF DA hubs with Sapim spokes and i think the spokes were hard to get in that short length.. his wheels look nice!
i wouldn't worry too much about the spoke angle..
#49
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Shopping around for some DA cranks and BB-7710 bottom bracket. Carleton probably knows the answer right off the bat with his Tiemeyer collection, but what size bb do I need for my Tiemeyer Signature track frame? I've seen posts of 68x109.5 and 68x110. Just want to make sure I get the correct size. Thanks!