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Old 04-05-18, 07:42 AM
  #5001  
Nate2453
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Morelock,

I am currently using a set of Rotor inpower 155 road cranks adapted to track BCD and have yet to have any creaking.

If you have any questions I'll try to answer.

Nate
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Old 04-05-18, 07:56 AM
  #5002  
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Hey @Nate2453

I am guessing my past experience with Rotor has as much to do with Cervelo's bb shells as it does with Rotor You could always hear the guys on S3's coming up behind you!

How did you adapt it to 144? That sounds interesting
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Old 04-05-18, 09:04 AM
  #5003  
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Rotor crank arms will not work with an SRM Track PM spider. You need the Rotor SRM spider.
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Old 04-05-18, 09:38 AM
  #5004  
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Originally Posted by Clythio View Post
Omnium sucks, simply said.
It's the track cycling pentathlon.. champion doesn't have to win any race, normal people do not understand some races, points, etc.

And we could have 5 different races in its place.
Maybe with less "plastic crashes"..

On the other hand, I can see why the Kilo isn't a "mass, TV, interesting event" - long and solo qualys, no crashes, no "last second" definitions on the line - not for the common spectator, only "us" racers capable of appreciate the effort, the split times, etc.
popping in kind of late on this. I can see why it's not a particularly interesting televised event, either - but that has to do with the bad/budget television production of these events. i communicate data for a living, and i can think of a bunch of ways to display split data in an exciting way that gives commentators more to talk about, gives audience ways to contextualize performances against each other, and makes the whole event more exciting.

honestly, of all the time trials in the sport to watch, track cycling probably offers the most opportunity for interest - but broadcasts haven't really figured out how to tell the story of the event.

https://medium.com/@montesano/data-v...t-acd52d1eda79
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Old 04-06-18, 10:32 AM
  #5005  
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Do you use grips on aerobars (either tape or proper grips?)
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Old 04-06-18, 12:21 PM
  #5006  
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Originally Posted by MrMinty View Post
Do you use grips on aerobars (either tape or proper grips?)
Hockey tape over here.
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Old 04-07-18, 01:01 AM
  #5007  
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Nothing on the extensions, the Zipp carbon extensions that I use have a rough surface
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Old 04-11-18, 01:29 PM
  #5008  
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I have cork on the bars and extensions. I feel like a little extra grip is nice at my quite bumpy home track. Might ride no grip on extensions if DLV was smoother.
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Old 05-05-18, 10:56 PM
  #5009  
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Some photos of the Araya and Realize 5 spokes form a race I did last weekend. By the way, the amateur level is really rising in Japan. Years ago the top kilo time you'd expect at one of these was 1:07 or so. Last year at the race there was a 1:05 and this year the winner did 1:03, pretty impressive.


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Old 05-05-18, 11:36 PM
  #5010  
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The Araya is interesting. Very round and blunt looking. The Realize wheel could almost pass for an iO.
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Old 05-05-18, 11:46 PM
  #5011  
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Originally Posted by taras0000 View Post
The Araya is interesting. Very round and blunt looking. The Realize wheel could almost pass for an iO.
Apparently the Realize and a Campy Ghibli rear were the set for the last Olympics for the Japanese team. Want.
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Old 05-06-18, 05:53 AM
  #5012  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
Apparently the Realize and a Campy Ghibli rear were the set for the last Olympics for the Japanese team. Want.

I lust after the Araya disc. I think itís more expensive than a Comete.

Where can I find info on the Realize 5-spoke? Searching is turning up a lot of Alibaba links.
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Old 05-06-18, 06:26 AM
  #5013  
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Hey Carleton, actually I don't know where to find info. I think it's made by a shop that normally does carbon bits for race cars, but I don't know how to find them, I've searched too. I know the wheel is relatively reasonably priced ($2-3000 neighborhood), and as I understand it comes in three different models, with the priciest being the Olympic wheel. That's all I got. But I really want one for my birthday. Hint, hint...
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Old 05-07-18, 05:55 AM
  #5014  
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Bottom Bracket, Which One?

Hello all,

Picked up a nice lil 2006 Raleigh Rush Hour to use for my commuting. The bike comes with a Tuvativ Touro crank and 130BCD chain ring and uses a Tuvativ 68 x 108 power spline
BB. I want to swap out to a 144 BCD chainring just to keep my stuff in the same family and most likely a square taper crank.
So the question is if I do this do I have to use a 68x108 BB or can I go 68x109 or 68x 110 wide?
Can't find the 108's so easily and there are many options on the 110 around.

Comments & insight?

Thanks Robert
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Old 05-07-18, 07:14 AM
  #5015  
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It depends on the crank, since a crank and a BB go together.

But, figure that the difference between a hard-to-find 108mm spindle and an easy-to-find 110mm spindle is 1mm on each side. And that means that your commuter's chainline is "off" by 1mm. Which is perfectly fine and well within what your chain can tolerate.
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Old 05-07-18, 10:19 AM
  #5016  
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Thanks, Unsure which crank as I"ll be locking it up on the street,
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Old 05-07-18, 11:06 AM
  #5017  
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It might be better to leave the 130 BCD crankset and chainring in that bike. Once you settle on a gear ratio for your terrain, itís unlikely that youíll change it.

Also, having all 144 BCD and using the chainrings on both bikes might make a situation where the chainring you need for a training or race day is on your other bike as opposed to being in your track sack. Now you gotta stop and take it off before leaving then put it back on when you return.

Further, if you are locking the bike up outside of stores, pubs, restaurants, etc... the nicer the components, the more you worry and your replacement costs go up.

But, if you want it nice, no problem with that either. I rode a race-spec Pista Concept complete with Mavic Ellipse, Sugino 75 cranks, Zen chainring, Thomson stem and seatpost, B123 bars, Arione saddle, etc...through Baltimore and DC back in the day without issues...but I was constantly paranoid about it being knicked or scavanged.
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Old 05-18-18, 01:13 PM
  #5018  
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do Dura Ace chain ring nuts/bolts (the knurled ones) work with sram omnium cranks? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but using 2 tools to remove chain rings is a PIA. If not, what glue do you guys use to secure the bolts into the crank?
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Old 05-18-18, 03:06 PM
  #5019  
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Originally Posted by JuiceWillis View Post
do Dura Ace chain ring nuts/bolts (the knurled ones) work with sram omnium cranks? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but using 2 tools to remove chain rings is a PIA. If not, what glue do you guys use to secure the bolts into the crank?
Tubular glue works well. So do silicone caulks/glue. You want something that cures with some give, not something hard like Crazy Glue (cyanoacrylate glues), because there will be some gap and the glue is too brittle for that. Epoxy works too, but you will never get them out if you strip one.

Last edited by taras0000; 05-19-18 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 05-19-18, 07:20 AM
  #5020  
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Originally Posted by JuiceWillis View Post
do Dura Ace chain ring nuts/bolts (the knurled ones) work with sram omnium cranks? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but using 2 tools to remove chain rings is a PIA. If not, what glue do you guys use to secure the bolts into the crank?
yep, they'll work. Sugino also makes some that are a little cheaper than the DA ones. Otherwise, as Taras suggested.
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Old 05-19-18, 08:05 AM
  #5021  
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Thanks guys!
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Old 05-22-18, 09:21 PM
  #5022  
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To anyone that uses a wahoo cadence sensor and wahoo Elemnt bike computer, has anyone had weird readings when doing higher cadences? I was doing cadence drills on the rollers, and i was hitting 120-145 rpms on the cadence intervals when i was able to glance at the computer. However, when I uploaded the workout to trainingpeaks it reads that my peak cadence was 110rpms for 5 seconds, but my speed sensor was accurate and was stating peaks of 35-45mph so I know its the cadence sensor not being accurate. Anyone else have this problem? Not a big deal but slightly annoying when i was analyzing the workout afterwards.
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Old 05-22-18, 11:39 PM
  #5023  
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Originally Posted by spartanKid View Post
IME I have found that magnet-less cadence sensors really aren't made to cope with high cadences. I can hit 240 with a magnet cadence sensor but my magnet-free one drops out or halves the cadence when it gets above 160 or so.
Bingo.

Whatever is inside of it (e.g. a ball bearing) simply gets slung to the side with the centripetal force of the really high cadences.

Get an ANT+ magnet type sensor. Bontrager sells them.

On a related note, I hooked up my Wahoo Ticker (HR monitor) to the iPhone app today and place it in my two hands to test and it worked...then I set the HR strap on the table as I cleaned my bike and apparently it registered a ghost's HR between 134 and 146 BPM! It did this for several minutes! Not sure if I can trust this thing, hahaha
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Old 05-23-18, 04:52 PM
  #5024  
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Originally Posted by JuiceWillis View Post
To anyone that uses a wahoo cadence sensor and wahoo Elemnt bike computer, has anyone had weird readings when doing higher cadences? I was doing cadence drills on the rollers, and i was hitting 120-145 rpms on the cadence intervals when i was able to glance at the computer. However, when I uploaded the workout to trainingpeaks it reads that my peak cadence was 110rpms for 5 seconds, but my speed sensor was accurate and was stating peaks of 35-45mph so I know its the cadence sensor not being accurate. Anyone else have this problem? Not a big deal but slightly annoying when i was analyzing the workout afterwards.
I got the Wahoo sensor when I bought my Kickr. It's rubbish for sprint style stuff where cadences change rapidly. I was using my Garmin speed/cadence sensor with Zwift and running the Wahoo Fitness app alongside it which was reading the Wahoo sensor. For steady state stuff after a few seconds it registers right in line with the Garmin, but for rapid accelerations or speed changes it's just not useable. Reportedly the gyro speed sensors are in the same ball park. "Old fashioned" magnets and sensors are still the best way to go for sprint style track/trainer work. I am now trying to find a speed/cadence magnet sensor with BT & ANT+ connectivity for my daughter and her road and track bikes. I am having to look overseas for them now!
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Old 05-23-18, 05:47 PM
  #5025  
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Old school basic cycle computer + Carleton's track calculator app FTW.
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