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Old 10-28-18, 11:47 AM
  #5276  
Kaben
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
I've done it, and been doing it. It hasn't been a problem so far.

It's not a great idea to do it too often, but once or twice isn't really a problem. (Replacement pins can be purchased for $5-$6.)
fantastic - what pins are you using? The only replacement ones I can find are the following, but they are for different chains to the K710 SL - I think the HL is the half link & the KK is that wierd Knight box chain for example.

Bullet Pin HL710/KK710<br>(1 set/polybag) for BMX, Fixie & Track | KMC Chain

the pins I have pushed out of the chain itself are deformed and without the bullet part I have no idea how you would get it back in.
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Old 10-28-18, 12:18 PM
  #5277  
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Originally Posted by Kaben View Post
Do any of you know whether you can reuse pins To relink a K710SL chain?

i have accidentally split the chain too short ( maths cock up trying to do it in a rush and not double checking).

They are almost £30 per chain here in the UK so Iím keen to save it if I can.

KMC website Doesnít list any spares other than missing links.

im guessing the answer is no but thought I would ask the community anyway just incase! *fingers crossed*
Another option would be to used a second Missing Link to attach the short section.
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Old 10-28-18, 02:00 PM
  #5278  
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Sorry. I misunderstood your question. I have reused the missing links, not the pins.
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Old 10-29-18, 05:47 PM
  #5279  
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Track Tires - where to buy?
US or EU internet shop options wanted...
I like the Vittorias, light but not slick options.
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Old 10-30-18, 02:27 PM
  #5280  
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Originally Posted by Clythio View Post
Track Tires - where to buy?
US or EU internet shop options wanted...
I like the Vittorias, light but not slick options.
Euro shops always have the best pricing in my experience. Evans Cycles was one of my go to shops but have stopped selling to Oz

By light but not slick do you mean not the indoor tyres like Vittoria pista speed? But rather something with more rubber and maybe even some puncture protection?
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Old 10-30-18, 05:09 PM
  #5281  
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I bought Vittoria Pista G+ clinchers for my training wheels and Vittoria Corsa Speed G+ tubulars for my race wheels from probikekit.com. I race outdoors on a concrete track.
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Old 10-30-18, 06:08 PM
  #5282  
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Originally Posted by brawlo View Post


Euro shops always have the best pricing in my experience. Evans Cycles was one of my go to shops but have stopped selling to Oz

By light but not slick do you mean not the indoor tyres like Vittoria pista speed? But rather something with more rubber and maybe even some puncture protection?
Thanks! Only the Rio Velo here in wood/covered, and I live 400km far from Rio, have to train/compete in concrete/open with some dirt stuff on the middle and blue lane all the time due the wind, so, need some extra thickness. Will check Evans, thanks again.
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Old 10-30-18, 07:27 PM
  #5283  
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Originally Posted by Clythio View Post
Thanks! Only the Rio Velo here in wood/covered, and I live 400km far from Rio, have to train/compete in concrete/open with some dirt stuff on the middle and blue lane all the time due the wind, so, need some extra thickness. Will check Evans, thanks again.
When I had an outdoor tub wheelset I ran Vittoria Corsa Evo CX. They were one of the best for outdoor. Not sure of current G+ equivalent, maybe the Corsa Speed mentioned above. These days I only run tubs indoor and do all my outdoor training and racing on clinchers. I use Veloflex Records for bigger races
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Old 11-02-18, 10:07 AM
  #5284  
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I've accidentally bought a 3/32 chainring

All my other chainrings, sprockets and chain are 1/8...from what i gather a 3/32 chainring will work when combined with a 1/8 sprocket and chain however is there a downside? What works for normal riding might not be suitable for racing with standing starts and things like that so my main concern is that it is safe but noise and wear rate are consideration too.
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Old 11-02-18, 01:58 PM
  #5285  
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Originally Posted by zizou View Post
I've accidentally bought a 3/32 chainring

All my other chainrings, sprockets and chain are 1/8...from what i gather a 3/32 chainring will work when combined with a 1/8 sprocket and chain however is there a downside? What works for normal riding might not be suitable for racing with standing starts and things like that so my main concern is that it is safe but noise and wear rate are consideration too.
You'll be fine.

It's safe and wear won't be an issue.
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Old 11-02-18, 02:25 PM
  #5286  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
You'll be fine.

It's safe and wear won't be an issue.
Thanks Turns out the bargain was a bargain after all and not an expensive mistake!
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Old 11-02-18, 03:27 PM
  #5287  
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Originally Posted by zizou View Post
Thanks Turns out the bargain was a bargain after all and not an expensive mistake!
The mistake to be made is committing to a 3/32" chain which requires 3/32" chainrings & cogs.. If you do, you cannot borrow 1/8" in a pinch.

There are several top tier racers who use 3/32" for the weight savings. But, those folks are looking for those 1% marginal gains that will have an impact on their winning or losing.

Also, in the track equipment world, everything is made with a 1/8" options and very few brands (like Dura Ace or Sugino) will offer 3/32" options.
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Old 11-02-18, 07:30 PM
  #5288  
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Old 11-03-18, 04:56 PM
  #5289  
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Considering a competition - Pan Track in Mexico - at high altitude - 2400m - what kind of decision we have to take on gears?
Some calculations shows 6/7% more speed to same power at 55-60km/h range.
Shoud we go 5% bigger on gears? 2 teeth more on chainring, for "launched' races like Flying 200?
(Of course, 500TT has inertia problem basically the same for the first half lap).

Any advices on gears, and of course, if possible, how to deal with the altitude thing?
Live at almost 800m altitude, not sea level.
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Old 11-05-18, 09:35 AM
  #5290  
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Originally Posted by Clythio View Post
Considering a competition - Pan Track in Mexico - at high altitude - 2400m - what kind of decision we have to take on gears?
Some calculations shows 6/7% more speed to same power at 55-60km/h range.
Shoud we go 5% bigger on gears? 2 teeth more on chainring, for "launched' races like Flying 200?
(Of course, 500TT has inertia problem basically the same for the first half lap).

Any advices on gears, and of course, if possible, how to deal with the altitude thing?
Live at almost 800m altitude, not sea level.
It's absolutely possible to get "spun out" at altitude during events. But, it'll happen during full-gas 100M jumps as well.

The way I've done it is to monitor my max cadence during warmup and sprint efforts on race gears.
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Old 11-06-18, 10:56 AM
  #5291  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
Sorry. I misunderstood your question. I have reused the missing links, not the pins.
No Problem - i spoke with KMC and they confirmed that there are no replacement pins for the SL version of this chain.

Originally Posted by gl98115 View Post
Another option would be to used a second Missing Link to attach the short section.
Using a second missing link is exactly what KMC recommended to extend the chain.

What i ended up doing though is just buying a new chain altogether. I will keep one long one for bigger chainrings and use the shorter chain for smaller rings. Looking at the construction of the missing link i cant see why its single use - it looks pretty robust compared to those found on road chains which are reusable. Ive take on on and off a few times now and can see no discernable wear or warping from doing so.
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Old 11-06-18, 11:13 AM
  #5292  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Not trying to rip on BLS, but the through-the-axle design of their straps is straight phoning it in. Mark my words, BLS straps are a fad. They simply look nice...and stretch. The fact that top riders still use them blows my mind.

It's awful. There are fixie pedal straps that are better at the job.

1/2 of the nylon is in front of the axle. Why is this bad? The whole purpose of pedal straps on SPD-SL / LOOK style pedals is to keep the spring-loaded clamp from opening up. That's about 5cm away from the axle. 6cm away from the webbing in front of the axle.

The best designs are like that which Hoy used. Matt Baranoski's dad (an engineer, BTW) made a similar device for Matt. Next would be to affix straps behind the axle that come over the foot above the clamp.

Any part of the strap that is in front of the axle simply works to keep your toes down. No one has a problem with their toes unclipping first
Hi Carleton, have you seen / tried the zip tie version of the BLS straps? https://www.blsglobal.net/int/produc...aps-cable-tie/
I think these are supposed to put the strap higher / further back on your foot than the axle version. Do you think this design is better?

Reason i ask is i am struggling to find decent strap options in the UK ( that aren't super expensive) and alot of people at the London velodrome are using the BLS so i don't have many other examples to compare to.

Thanks
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Old 11-06-18, 01:53 PM
  #5293  
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The zip tie option is better, but still nowhere near as good as NJS straps.

Next time you are at the track, take a tour of the infield and spot the older BLS straps (of either variant) and see what happens when they are used for a while.
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Old 11-06-18, 02:40 PM
  #5294  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
The zip tie option is better, but still nowhere near as good as NJS straps.

Next time you are at the track, take a tour of the infield and spot the older BLS straps (of either variant) and see what happens when they are used for a while.
have you any opinion on the G-Star straps or are they much the same as the BLS?

NJS straps seems to run twice as much as either of these options but if they are really so much better maybe they are worth the investment.

how are the double buckles from an ease of use perspective? They look like they would be fiddly to operate by comparison.

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Old 11-06-18, 03:36 PM
  #5295  
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Originally Posted by Kaben View Post


have you any opinion on the G-Star straps or are they much the same as the BLS?

NJS straps seems to run twice as much as either of these options but if they are really so much better maybe they are worth the investment.

how are the double buckles from an ease of use perspective? They look like they would be fiddly to operate by comparison.

I've never used, handled, or seen GStar outside of photos. My comments about BLS are based on experience.

The NJS straps are an investment. I have used them for 2 seasons of heavy torque work during sprint workouts and races. I only replace them because of aesthetics (e.g.: going from black to red).

On a related note: I firmly believe that mass start and enduro specialists will benefit from using straps as well. I've seen a few use them at World Cup and the Olympics. I wish I had time to setup some proper experiments.

One strap is enough. Double does feel better. You can buy doubles and cut them down the middle to have 2 sets. Maybe split them with a teammate (pun intended).

Do not waste your money on non-NJS straps that do not have 3-ply leather-laminate-leather plys. If they are just one ply of leather, they will simply stretch like a genuine leather belt and be rather useless. There are lots of those on the market to cater to the fixie kids that went for the "race-spec bike" look.
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Old 11-06-18, 03:39 PM
  #5296  
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To be clear, well-made nylon straps may work. But, BLS are not well-made.

Note that many of the Dutch use some custom (usually orange) straps as well as NJS straps. Same for NZ. AUS seem to be all-in on BLS straps and a couple of the GER team. But, I've seen many of the GER team go back and forth between BLS and NJS straps.

EDIT:
@Kaben, I would guess that you aren't in the mood or position to experiment. If that's the case, then your safe bet is NJS straps. They are tried and true from local to Olympic podiums for decades. They do cost more, but the cost is justified.
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Old 11-06-18, 04:19 PM
  #5297  
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Iím usually happy to try out different things but moneyís a little tight this time of year so Iíd like to get it right first time if I can. I also want to try and keep training variables down whilst Iím testing/ learning so many other things about my position etc.

The main njs straps ican get hold of are MKS brand - are these ok? Iím pretty sure they are laminated suede straps,

Also do you know of any decent resouces for photo or video examples of mounting them to spd-sl pedals?

thanks for your help
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Old 11-06-18, 05:13 PM
  #5298  
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Originally Posted by Kaben View Post
Iím usually happy to try out different things but moneyís a little tight this time of year so Iíd like to get it right first time if I can. I also want to try and keep training variables down whilst Iím testing/ learning so many other things about my position etc.

The main njs straps ican get hold of are MKS brand - are these ok? Iím pretty sure they are laminated suede straps,

Also do you know of any decent resouces for photo or video examples of mounting them to spd-sl pedals?

thanks for your help
I've never used MKS, but if they have the NJS stamp, then they are all the same.

I think this is the first time I've ever said that something "NJS" is better than an alternative, hahaha.

Mounting: Pedals ? Up! Up! Up! An introduction to track sprint cycling

There are other ways, too. But, that should give you some ideas.
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Old 11-06-18, 06:13 PM
  #5299  
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I think BLS are along the same lines as Mavic wheels. They aren't actually the best, but targeted sponsorship goes a long way to convincing the everyday consumer.

FWIW I used to use Toshi straps for maybe 4-5yrs. My long long legs made it a PITA to put the strap down into the second hole every time. I changed to skingrowsback straps and have never looked back. They're coming into their 4th season now and are holding up awesomely.

I was going to sell my Toshis but it looks like they could now be a collectors item and worth holding onto
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Old 11-07-18, 02:12 AM
  #5300  
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Originally Posted by brawlo View Post
I think BLS are along the same lines as Mavic wheels. They aren't actually the best, but targeted sponsorship goes a long way to convincing the everyday consumer.

FWIW I used to use Toshi straps for maybe 4-5yrs. My long long legs made it a PITA to put the strap down into the second hole every time. I changed to skingrowsback straps and have never looked back. They're coming into their 4th season now and are holding up awesomely.

I was going to sell my Toshis but it looks like they could now be a collectors item and worth holding onto
Haha yeah, i would hold onto them - they are going for crazy money even used!

I will take a look into the Skingrowsback straps - their website doesnt seem to want to load at the moment though. I too have long legs ( and very big feet, size 15 US) so i may have similar issues.


Originally Posted by carleton View Post
I've never used MKS, but if they have the NJS stamp, then they are all the same.

I think this is the first time I've ever said that something "NJS" is better than an alternative, hahaha.

Mounting: Pedals ? Up! Up! Up! An introduction to track sprint cycling

There are other ways, too. But, that should give you some ideas.
Thanks for the link Carleton - I forgot they had this section on Up!Up!Up! . All of those examples are for older style pedals - i have the newer composite style 6800 pedals. Do you know if it is possible to mount the zip ties perpendicular to the pedal across the sides without issue?
I suppose i could go down the route of drilling the lever at the back and adding a metal loop like in the last examples on upupup, but if i can avoid that great. If not i may have to look into buying some older model pedals.

Sorry for all the questions.

Rob
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