carleton

True! That's when you use 3M Outdoor Double-sided tape



I used tape before I had faith in the magnet sticking by itself.

carleton

Speaking of forgetting stuff:

This goes for all genres of cycling (MTB, Road, CX, etc...) If you have room in the car/truck, stash a bag with the stuff that will keep you from racing if you forgot.

- Old backup cycling shoes
- Old backup helmet
- Old bib/jersey

You can borrow just about everything else at the track.

We all hate driving through rush hour to get to the track just to realize that we forgot our shoes or helmet.

taras0000

These are all things that you should carry with you in your carry on when travelling by air. Not the spares, but the real deal. Also your pedals. If your bike gets lost or delayed, you can still race or train.

bouldergeek

I just learned that I really wished for a spray bottle of bactine, and some large bandages and gauze pads, plus medical tape or duct tape.

Yes, I did a full test of tire adhesion capabilities in cold weather. I had a momentary bobble of cadence after an exchange on turn 2 and the back end came most definitely disconnected. Wished I had tights on, but it was a 60 degree afternoon when I got dressed.

I think I am going to start track riding in my motorcycle Aerostich armored suit.

wens

I keep compressed saline bottles, nonstick gauze, and the stretch netting, among other things, in my car.

myth001

Icarus has these on ebay. I first tried and loved them. Since I've found various alternates on these. On track they probably won't fall off (haven't for me since I started), but on road I'm not entirely confident they'll stick.

Also love the bladed magnets that you can put on bladed spokes. Very minimalist, but after losing a couple on road, I use super-glue.

Velocirapture

Thats not fun >_<

Hope its mostly superficial.

bike ok?

taras0000

Any situation where you don't want to/can't use magnets, tape, or zip ties (or to reinforce them), use clear silicone caulk. Weatherproof, isolates vibration, and removable cleanly with just a little elbow grease. Never had a magnet or sensor shift on me. Holds strong for years too.

bouldergeek

Thanks for the sympathy. It was just a quick lowside. The worst part is my butt where I had to slide all the way down to the cote d'azur.

The bike got a little scuff on the top tube where the bars snapped around. No deformity, though. Now I know why all the rental bikes have those top tube pads.


I hadn't been on the track in a couple of weeks, and I guess that I need to ride rollers a bit to really keep my head in the fixed gear game before getting out there with other people. Whoops. Ultimately, of course, I am very glad that I didn't cause anyone else to go down.

carleton

I've had a couple of questions about my computer setup recently so I figured I'd offer details.

I use separate speed and cadence sensors mainly because the combined speed/cadence sensors require the speed magnet to be on the rear wheel. This is fine for road bike where the rear wheel is set in 1 place. On a track bike, the rear wheel moves up to 2 inches depending on your chainring/cog combination. This would require you to either have a 2 inch long magnet or possibly move the magnet every gear change.

Before the combined sensors, they would have separate speed and cadence sensors. You can still get them now. Bontrager sells them. Any Trek shop should have them in stock.

I get my speed data from the front wheel and put the cadence sensor on the chainstay as usual.

Now that the speed sensor is on the front, where do I put the magnet on the wheel? On the spokes? NOPE I did this at first, then I got a set of deep 808 wheels, which had shorter spokes. If you have different training and race wheels, magnet placement can be a pain. ESPECIALLY if you have a 3, 4, or 5 spoke. They don't have normal spokes. WAT DO NOW?

This:

I got these for $9 at Ace Hardware. Make sure to get neodymium (metal), not ceramic. These are really strong and small.



I use 3M outdoor double-sided tape. It's gooey (like chewing gum). It will stay put for years on your wheel. But, you can pry it off with your fingernail. Place the magnets on the tape. Not too close, or they will snap together.


Cut them off. Sharp scissors work best. Dull will stick to the tape and be a pain in the butt:


Trim. Be sure to leave the tape backing on until you put them on your wheel:


Apply it to your wheels in the same spot...on both sides. The only part that is uniform on all wheels is the brake track area. Not a problem being that we don't use brakes! "But what about rotating weight making the wheel hop?" It's never been a problem. I position them across from the valve stem and the valve stem is still the heaviest part of the wheel. I've never noticed any vibrations. I've been using this method since 2010.


Now, when I grab a wheel, it doesn't matter which wheel or which side it's on, I just put it on and go. Having magnets on both sides also helps prevent wearing the tire on one side faster than the other.


I hope this helps!

wens

And sadly can't be used by most of the enduros who use their road front wheel at least some of the time.

carleton

What is this "road" you speak of?

I once heard of a fairy tale of a guy riding 40 miles once...in the same day! Next you are gonna say that the Easter Bunny is real...lol

Banchad

We(my clubmates and me) rode 38 miles on a track session once. My ass started to hurt after that.

carleton

Ouch!

Banchad

I took a page out of John Waynes book for the next few days.

wens

There was an attempt to get a ride 100 miles on the track day here last year. I think one guy actually did it. I can't imagine the level of boredom that entailed though.

Soil_Sampler

The pain!

Racer Ex 

Ah, good hour workout!

-Sir Chris

700wheel

How about the 100 mile, 12 hour and 24 hour track records. I witnessed one 24 hour attempt at the old 7-11 velodrome back in the 80s. As far as I can find Michael Secrest hit 535 miles in 24 hours at the LA ADT indoor velodrome. USAC and UCI used to list these records but can find anything on their websites more than one-hour.

alfa111

The Chicago Velo Campus bag is only $30. It's the one I use. Works great.

Chicago Velo Campus Track Tool Bag | chicagovelocampus.com

Pantani98

+2 for the CVC bag. Nice bag and well made.

krispenhartung

This may have been covered in the forum somewhere, but my search didn't yield anything.... but I'm seeing a lot of discussion on it in other TT and track forums. Upon putting my new HED H3 tri-spoke wheels on my timemachine, it occurred to me that I could no longer use my Wahoo or Garmin speed sensors (this is the non-magnet type). And as a side note, there is no way I am going back to the older type of speed sensors, which require a magnet and one of those awkward sensors that have to be zip tied to the chainstay...that's out of the question and precarious.

So I was racking my brain and wondered if the newer speed sensors were specifically designed to only measure speed if they are attached to the hub and positioned side to side. So I contacted Wahoo and they said that the sensors were not designed to operate like that, but that I was free to try mounting the sensor another way -- odd that this problem has not occurred to them and they haven't explored this themselves.

Anyway, so it turns out that the sensor will strap easily on one of the tri-spokes, near the center. So I did this, and then manually set the wheel circumference on my Wahoo Elemnt Bolt to 700x19. It works!

Now, as I see it, someone stands to make a lot of money if they can design and manufacture a speed sensor that essentially installed inside the valve stem cutout of a tri-spoke or disc wheel. If I get bored this summer, I may even design it myself, working with someone who has knowledge of ANT+ electronics and a 3D printer.

Pic below.

Kris

bitingduck

Hey, a lot of enduros can do that much on the track in one day!

bitingduck

Not to mention mess up the aerodynamics of the trispoke.

carleton

I’d rather have a magnet that is a few square mm swinging around my wheel than a sensor that is a few square inches.

Call me crazy

You can mount a speed sensor on the trailing side of the fork and not increase the CdA of the system.

The new way of mounting the sensor to the spinning wheel seems like a bad idea for a few reasons (CdA, rotating mass, does it work?, will it fling off?...)