marimorimo

I bought a couple of climbing blocks with my CycleOps Fluid Pro trainer. Stacked together, they hold the front wheel approximately 9 inches off the ground. Are these really supposed to help you train for climbs? I've used them once so far and I noticed 1) my handlebars are now significantly higher and 2) all the weight is now centered on my butt, which hurt after a while (I'm using a hybrid bike which probably compounds this issue). There's no gravity holding me back so the resistance is provided solely from my gears.

I guess I'm asking for the moon if I thought these would actually help me simulate climbs (which I'm really bad at), but what is the point to these climbing blocks?

GravelMN

I asked this same question several months ago and the answer I got was that the only advantage is that you train in the same position on the bike that you would have when climbing, there is no actual change in resistance for, as you noted, you are not actually gaining elevation as you spin.

Panza

As you stated there's a lot more pressure on your rear now. I don't know how uncomfortable your riding is but bike fit / saddle height/angle level etc checks are always good... You can practice climbing out of the saddle and closer to the bars. Support your torso with your arms over the bars instead of relying on your lower back and continue with the proper form.

marimorimo

Figures...do you use climbing blocks as well and if you do think it's helpful in a way?

This is an ultra n00b question but what is the proper climbing form when seated? I'm too scared to practice out of saddle climbs on the trainer (I hear creaks which freak me out and make me think I might destroy my bike, my trainer, or both).

Carbonfiberboy 

My favorite is hands on bar tops, elbows well bent and in, forward lean, pelvis rolled forward, back straight, shoulders relaxed, pedaling circles.

GravelMN

Nope, I don't use climbing blocks. I just have a front wheel chock that holds the bike level when on the trainer.

When climbing I tend to take a wide grip on the hoods or the outside curves of the bar, bend my elbows and lean forward by rotating my pelvis. I might move forward on the saddle depending on the grade. Some might note that the wide grip is less aero, but I've got wide shoulders and chest so the narrow grip inhibits full, deep respirations on longer climbs and my speed on a significant grade is going to be low so I'm not too worried about aero at that point (the way down the other side is another story).

What bike and trainer do you have? There really shouldn't be any problem practicing out of the saddle climbs. Check to see what the source of the creaks is. It could be as simple as the trainer or the climbing blocks moving slightly on the floor. Check that your skewer is properly mounted and you should be good to go.

Panza

Stand up and start cycling... if your bike is bobbing or you're getting a lot of bike movement your form might be off. this could cause creaking sounds.




Shift your weight up to so your arms are supporting the weight of your torso via bar tops or hoods (relieves back pressure).
Keep your back somewhat straight (don't hunch unless you're sprinting, air resistance isnt as important when climbing) this relieves you of lower back pain as well.
Pedaling should not move the bike very much due to more efficient pedal stroke and power transfer.

Make sure your trainer isn't overly tight if it's still creaking.

kingfishr

9" corresponds to climbing a 22% grade, even one block means an 11% grade, which is extreme, 2-3 inches should be more than enough.