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age old question - road vs. tri?

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age old question - road vs. tri?

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Old 07-29-05, 09:18 PM
  #26  
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Thanks for the input. Right now, I train on my own or with one or two friends most of the time, but that may change. Sounds like I need to take a tri-bike for a long ride and see just how comfortable, or not, I am. Whether I buy road or tri, it will be the last bike in my budget for a while since I just bought a trek 6700 mtn bike I use for adventure races.
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Old 08-10-05, 07:17 PM
  #27  
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Sorry for the late answer to your question, but I just decided to register and see how this thing goes. The question as to whether to buy a road bike or a so-called tri-bike is an old question that gets people really stirred up, becuz several have very solid opinions upon which one is used. However, which one is used is entirely up to the rider and the conditions of the race. For a professional, it is up to the individual sponsor and rarely up to the rider. It is impossible to say which bike will be faster under any given condition, becuz the ultimate speed or time of the competitor depends on so many things on any given day...weather, strength of the rider, length of the race, etc. Weather and fitness of the rider are probably the two most important factors, and both are much overlooked when it comes time to choose a bike.

It is also important to remember that the so-called tri bike is just that, it is a marketing gimmick to sell more bikes. Triathlons used to be thought of as time trials for swimming, biking and running--the biking part is what we are talking about, and since drafting used to be forbidden, the old think was to build as aerodynamic a bike as possible. However, aero is a many headed creature, esp. when the cyclist's body is 2/3 of the equation and the bike is only 1/3 of it. Once again, weather, strength or overall fitness and the length of the ride are the real considerations. A tri frame is really nothing but a time trial frame but with 650 series wheels, although the better ones now use 700 series due to lower rolling resistance.

How do I know all this? Becuz I built the bikes for a certain Woman's World Traithlon Champion--it was a road bike with an acid etched titanium frame, road bars and aero clipons. Wheels were ADA with sewups that I helped design and then balanced, I also designed the bearings. This person is still winning races and I noticed that she just won another Ironman Qualifier in the recent past. I have also designed the bikes for several world competitors, among them a World Cycling Champion, US national Champion and worked with two different winners of the RAAM, plus several state champions both pursuit and road.

Selecting a bike is a personal decision. It should be based on how much it weighs (very important), fit (also very important), the usage and finally and least important, it's cost--remember you get what you pay for.

One contributor to this forum hit the nail right on the head. She stated that fit is important. This is a true statement. A properly fitting road bike is more aero than an improperly fitting time trial bike. Also, time trial bikes are tradionally uncomfortable or can be. Long distance races, such as Ironman Qualifiers are 112 miles long, this is a tuff one for a time trial bike but winners frequently ride time trial bikes, it doesn't mean that you should.

I don't want to make this too long, but do you get the idea? You should buy a bike that you will be comfortable on and fits. Buy the best one your budget will allow and pay particular attention to the bearings. Good bearings don't need to be broken in, not ever.... Also, consider that either type of bike is a compromise. If you buy a road bike, it might not be faster than a full out time trial bike under ideal conditions, but get into adverse conditions and the time trial bike rider is toast. That works the other way around, too. Smart riders adapt the bike to the conditions, even swapping wheels from event to event. The idea for this is that a full disc wheel is great on a calm day, but you don't want to use one on a windy day.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-17-05, 01:37 AM
  #28  
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Ive been SO STUCK the past few weeks--on just the topic of this thread...Can you help???

I've done my homework, budeted $$ and had narrowed my new bike purchase down to 2 ...Litespeed Bella-medium (titanium/ultegra) or Kestrel Talon-52cm(carbon/ultegra).

No shop in Portland, OR has the talon built up as a 52cm road bike to try. I've ridden both bikes--but its been hard to tell what the talon would truly 'feel' like b/c its been the tri build...in contrast, the bella, w/ its short reach shifters and special handlebars (shorter distance to the drops) felt pretty darn good (but not like a glove like the custom). (Also, this is being compared to my previous bike of 7 years that was 56cm...wayyyy too big and REALLY uncomfortable..felt like I was stretched sooo far forward, and leaning on my hands w/ too much weight...didnt realize this wasnt normal till this past year..always thought it was b/c i dont have great core strength..which Im working on)

While at the last LBS, I tried the Bella and the Litespeed out again. The shop owner said if I was serious, he'd have the Kestrel changed to a road set up so I could test ride-to just give him a few days notice. Just before I left, he asked if I'd like to try a 'high end steel' bike (w/ Ultegra--pretty much same components as the other two), just for kicks.

I did, and as I began to pedal--i literally shook my head--it felt SOOOOOO good fit wise. wow. I couldnt keep it in...yelled (to my self..hehe) 'this is what Im talking about!!!!'. Usually I feel like Im too stretched out, and that i have too much weight on my hands....this bike felt like a glove...now im wondering if it was because I was more upright in the 'road' position-or just fit me better b/c the others hadnt been adjusted?? The manager told me he built it himself--a custom...it had been on the floor for awhile, and he'd give it to me for the price of the Talon (about $2500) even though its price was (apparently) somewhere around $3100. he said he watched me ride off on the test ride...and it looked like it had been made for me.

Ok, I know its all about fit. By far--this custom 'high end steel' was the that one felt the best fit wise (but, having not ridden the talon as a road bike....its hard to count that one out). I asked if he'd be able to make the Kestrel Talon fit to feel like this custom bike-he said no, b/c the geometry was different. this, too, made me think the custom was more of a 'road bike' position--after reading this entire thread...makes me more convinced thats the case.

Which would you recommend that I go with??? Ugh. I cant believe its taking SO long to make a decision.

Im 34yo, female, 5'61/2"...have done a handful of spint tris last season, my training program includes building consistant aerobic base over the next 9+ months through group rides and group spinning (a winter class where people bring a bike and trainer and spin together) ...my goals are for olympic tris next season (including Wildflower Olympic dist.), cycle Oregon next year, and 1/2 ironman the following...and then....I'll wait till next year to set the next goal.

My plan had been to buy a Bella or Talon built up as a road bike, and next year get another fit for tri position and add clip on aeros and forward seat post....

With this steel custom, if its geometry is more of a 'road' bike, doesnt seem like that would be an option? (is that true??)

I loved the smooth rides of both the Ti and carbon fiber....i was so psyched about the fit I dont remember the ride from the steel...dont think it was too much different??

I need some advice-as you can see.

last thing, in all honesty--ive been trying sooooo hard to not pick a bike on what it looks like. But, if I did go by looks--the Talon DOES it for me. the bellas next in line. then this custom....its light purple. WHAT!!!! im considering a PURPLE bike??? At first, no. I was humering the man to try a 'steel' bike. Now, after dreaming of the comfortable fit for a few days....hmmmm....Im not looking at me while im riding.

im so wanting to get the right one--Ill consider it. whew.

(geometry of Bella/Talon)
top tube(52.5/53.3)/ head tube angle (72.5deg/73deg)/seat tube angle (74deg/74.5deg)/chainstay (41.1dm/41.0cm)/bbdrop(7.0cm/7.1cm)/wheelbase (96.9cm/97.4)/front center (56.9cm/57.5cm)/fork rake (4.5cm/4.3)/standover height (74.9cm/76.5cm)/head tube length (12.0/10.2cm)/weight (2.88#/2.9#)

Sorry for the long one...appreciate your thoughts/opinions....
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Old 08-17-05, 11:32 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 123sadie123
Im 34yo, female, 5'61/2"...

(geometry of Bella/Talon)
top tube(52.5/53.3)/ head tube angle (72.5deg/73deg)/seat tube angle (74deg/74.5deg)/chainstay (41.1dm/41.0cm)/bbdrop(7.0cm/7.1cm)/wheelbase (96.9cm/97.4)/front center (56.9cm/57.5cm)/fork rake (4.5cm/4.3)/standover height (74.9cm/76.5cm)/head tube length (12.0/10.2cm)/weight (2.88#/2.9#)
I'm a male, the same height as you, have a 79 inseam, and ride a 52.5 top tube. If you have longer legs and a shorter torso, then you might want to look at bikes with a shorter top tube than the 52.5/53.3 of the Bella/Talon. For example, the small Bella has a 51.5 top tube.

Bring a tape measure and check the dimensions of the steel custom (see this form https://www.litespeed.com/LitespeedCustomForm.pdf).

          Good luck
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