Old?
 

Anyone race an older bike? I scored a free Schwinn Prelude. Color: Blue. Year: ? Weight: :( Built for: Speed :love:

Any advice on making it tri-worthy? I figured just a good set of wheels, but I have those old school shifter levers low on the triangle of the frame. Does anyone race with these?

I raced a 28 lb Peugeot U08 for many years. Downtube shifters. Scott aerobars. Not much problem on the flats and pretty comfortable. You'll be faster on a tri-specific bike, but the fun quotient is relatively the same until you want to compete for a podium spot.

TysonB
Cushing, Okla

28 is harsh. I wonder what mine weighs. I want to do a HIM on this baby by 2009.

I think the fun factor will be rated by how well I keep up with fancy pants bikes. I may never get a real bike if I beat a >$2000.

So just aerobars then? I actually don't have wheels. Would it be worth getting a decent set? I was thinking $500 range/used.

Get aerobars. Mess around with seat positioning. RACE! Race some shorter tri's and an Oly or two.

Then evaluate. Were you comfortable? Are you aero? How is the leg positioning while areo? What are the limiting factors? Generally it's the motor, but sometimes it is a swim that sucked and slowed you down all the way.

I wouldn't invest in wheels for this bike if it has decent road wheels now. Save for a dedicated tri-bike a year down the road. There are a number of threads here and elsewhere that describe the incremental gains to be had with positioning, wheels, aero-bikes and aero-helmets. But, a year from now you will finally know enough to make your own cost/benefit decisions and come up with the bike that is right for you.

My own decision is that my 1991 Merckx Super Corsa MX-Leader with Profile Design aerobars is a good compromise. Night and day improvement over my 1969 Peugeot, but useful as a regular road bike, too. Did a crit on it last Wednesday and it was fine there, too.

Tri's are FUN!

TysonB
Cushing, Oklahoma

I'm riding a 1989 Trek 1400, which I like a lot--it's light with a "bonded" aluminum frame and sleek with internal cable routing. It fits me well, but it would be cool to change a couple of things: I wouldn't mind a least one more lower gear. It's got 14 speeds, some of which I never use. I don't like to be going through many gears, but a lower one would be nice for spinning on bigger hills.

I've got downtube shifters too, which I actually like and have become used to. But if I get aerobars, it would be great to put some shifters up top. I think this kind of change would end up costing more than the bike is worth. At least enough so that it may be worth looking at newer bikes. In that case, the Trek could be a great fixed gear project.

Ultimately, I'd like to change the engine out too. Current one goes a little slow, needs to pick up mph! At least it enjoys the ride:).

If you do stick with the bike, I'd say one way of making it more raceworthy is to get used to using those downtube shifters. I think you need to anticipate shifts some more with them and get used to reaching down at speed. I think upgrading to bar end shifters could be an option too?

A free bike is a good bike, even if you have to make a few changes.

What is your budget for this bike? My recommendations, and a suggestion of adding a pinch of salt:

- get the bike fitted to you, for triathlons. If you're planning on using aerobars, adjust for that too. I've found that with my aerobars, i need the stem at a slightly different height.

- get some nice, lightweight wheels that will work well for racing, and possibly training, depending on your budget.

- what type of rear hub do you need? freewheel or freehub/cassette? Depending on the courses you plan on using, selection of gears will play a part.

- If you go with a modern freehub/cassette, you could upgrade to modern integrated brake/shifters. Or, depending on the aerobars you use, some will let you install barend shifters. Otherwise, practice with the downtube shifters.

Enjoy the Prelude. I sold one a year ago, and still miss it. It was a nice bike.

If you want a cheaper option for shifters, Profile Design makes the "Swing Shift", a doodad that relocates your downtube shifters to the end of a closed aero bar (either like the simple/cheap century bars, or a two tube type with a plastic bit that goes between the bars)

http://www.profile-design.com/produc...s/swift-shift/

Here's me and my first tri bike 1994. An old Nishiki that had to weigh at least 26 lbs, has a set of scot bars and was a blast when I passed guys on Zipp 2000's, Softrides, Slingshots etc. Aint allways about the bike but about the legs peddling it!:D :)
Dwayne

That Swing Shift adaptor for downtube shifters looks great--I may have to try that out. Has anyone tried them?

You mean swift shift? Yea I saw those. It's on the list : D

Right now, I don't have wheels at all so I have to get some anyway. I'm scouring the classifieds for a used set. mavic aksiums look interesting. also Velocity wheels seem to have a good reputation. I just don't know that much about wheels. A wheel builder offered: "Velocity Aero Head front rim 24h black radial laced, hub Velocity black sealed bearing with wheelsmith 2.0/1.7/2.0 silver with silver alloy nipples. Velocity Aero Head OC rim 28h black 2X laced, hub Velocity black sealed bearing Shimano same spoke and nipples as above" What do all those numbers mean and what should I be looking for? Sorry, fun chat turned into newb express.

The bike was fitted for a former rowing teammate who was the same height. I feel very comfortable on it. With my background, I'm very confident in the motor :D:roflmao2:

By the way, lots of good feedback. Thank you :)

Night and day between triathlon and mountain bike forums

Flirt,

As to the feedback, you're welcome. After you race a bit and ask more advanced questions, there are others that are on this forum that are qualified to answer those.

TysonB

thanks everyone. I just needed to get all the gear together. Went with mavic cxp33/dt swiss 340 hub 28h laced 2x in front and 32h laced 3x in back. From what I understand, this will be a solid wheel.

Love me some training. See you all out there!

I race on my Trek 1000. My regular road bike is a Trek 1500. I race on the 1000 as I feel I may be more likely to crash in a race, and dont want to hurt my good bike. If I take tri racing to another level, I may trade up to a better road bike and race on the 1500.