CyciumX

Title pretty much says it all, but here is the problem in detail... I kind of want to go cheap on it and I was wondering how affective/noneffective would it be to utilize DA 7800 shifters on the outer wing ends instead of dedicated brake levers? I know the ones made for the Vision are around 80-100 dollars... I also have r600 Shimano brake levers, but I only have 9 speed DA bar end shifters and I'm upgrading to 10 speed (have the 10speed RD/FD/Shifters already).

I saw on the sticky about low-end tri setups that he had regular (r600 looking) brake levers on, but would being able to shift from that position look insanely stupid and useless? I won't be using the bike for a long whiles for any races, but I am trying to get used to the aero position (currently reg. road bars with Syntace C2 aero bars).

Basically This:


With these :


Do-able?

Secondary option would be IF I bought new 10 speed bar end shifters.... whats the cheapest Brake option that matches the designed look of the Vision brake levers? It seems the diameter of Vision is different than most...

I know I sound confused and/or insane... maybe even dumb, but any help or opinion would be greatly appreciated!

CyciumX

whatever parts I don't use will be slapped on my old Trek Y-foil 77 so nothing will be wasted... just don't want to waste anymore money.

landshark1

Ebay off the DA shifters and you should get more than enough money to buy the proper brake levers and bar end shifters to go with the Vision bars.

sirious94

$350+ dollar STI shifters, vs $100 brake levers and $100 bar end shifters... Don't think so cheap.
Plus, why would you want them there?

Rogue Leader

I think the way those shifters would sit on there would be uncomfortable....

and as Sirious said.... $350 brifters vs $100 brake levers and $100 bar ends??

Use your 9 speeds as friction shifters, buy $100 brake levers, problem solved.

sirious94

oh yeah and did i mention ebay?

CyciumX

Okay... I think I got it....ha ha ha... DON'T use them.

Here is how it is hopefully going to play out. I just bought Dura Ace bar end shifters SL-BS79 :

For 60 bucks off a guy on Craigslist. He actually only wanted 50, but he didn't have change!

I have a 6600 Ultegra RD (that should be compatible right?)

a 6500 Ultegra FD for a double... which should be compatible... also?

...and of course a few 6600 Ultegra Cassettes and a 6500 Double crankset

Sounds like a real half-assed 20 speed setup, but it should work. It is because of this I feel I want to make a good update to the Y-foil 77.

It has a 1 inch threaded fork and quill so I think I am going to buy a threadless quill adapter like this:

I hear some folks use Y-Foils for Tri anyways....

Tell me if this sounds plausible or am I starting to get even dumber?

P.S... on a side note: If this works out im going to sell all my FD and RD sets (4500/5500/6500) to buy a 10spd series to use the Dura Ace STIs on the Caad9 and once and for all turn it into a real road bike again.

Sound good?

CyciumX

Only thing left is to buy new brake levers, but I can sell the r600 brakes and/or the 4500 Tiagra STIs to easily cover that cost.

Thanks again for all the suggestions!

CyciumX

All the components I need, although (I posted this same question in the road board)
I would like any last minute suggestions for a new Crankset and BB that are compatible (size 68x109.5)... I don't know if BBs are universally sized or not. So I have no clue if I can use newer stuff, but I'm excited to get this built... just need to repaint!

Barchettaman

Repaint what? The garage floor?
Not the bike I hope, it looks an absolute beauty. CanŽt wait to see the final build!

spartan_msu

Also make sure that if you are using TT brake levers that they accept road cables before you open those dura-ace cables. I bought some tektro TT brake levers and they needed mountain cables not road cables... just a heads up.

CyciumX

Oh snap! Thanks for the tip about the brake levers....

About the frame... It does look kinda pretty, but its got scrapes and stuff all over... PLUS there are a few cracks from paint around key areas of the frame. I researched it and a lot of folks state that on the y-foil the paint may start to crack only because of the flex of the carbon beam and the age of the paint, but that it should be checked out no matter what... I think a nasty gunmetal/black extreme gloss finish would be killer. I don't see many y-foils and I don't think I've seen any with custom paint jobs.

Most definitely will keep you all posted on the finished build!

Barchettaman

Nothing wrong with the odd scrape, scratch or battle scar - gives the old girl a bit of character I reckon.
Although a custom black paint job would be extremely mean looking. Maybe ŽstealthŽmatt black...?

CyciumX

I have bad news.... Didn't rebuild the Y-Foil.... Good news is.... Bought a frame and fork for $200 last Tuesday and built something else!

Seriously though... I couldn't pass up the frame and after what? 5 months of hanging onto these parts... I had to get something done. My double work load over the holiday season just killed me and I couldn't muster the energy to refinish the Y-Foil Frame.... I know, I suck, but look at this!



When its done I'll post in the Sticky Thread, but its still got some adjustment to do and bar tape finishing touches. My first real start-finish build. Took the day to make sure I didn't go through more cables than needed, but I got lucky. The same time I bought the frame Performance also was selling Aztec Cable sets that are rated for brake or shift and have the small shifter ends that fit the Vision bars... sweet! All that for less than $1,500 through a years worth of cherry picking CL and Ebay

Got a flat on the rear tubie 30 minutes after take-off!

Dalai

Nice build. Thanks for the tip about the cables.

Barchettaman

Always nice to have an update! Have fun on the Scattante.
Not as cool as the Y-foil but probably nearly as fast. And the price was amazing!
HereŽs a pic of my budget build for the winter, got the frame for €55 shipped, just waiting on a few bits and bobs and sheŽll be ready:

CyciumX

Thats a nice price for that frame too - reminds me I need to buy a wheel cover.

Charging my cam battery right now to take pics of the final build this weekend.

Well completing this thing got me the courage to finish sanding the Y-Foil and I'll be having it painted soon - in the meantime I just bought (12 min ago) another R700 crank w/ BB R770 front derailleur and a rear 6600SL for the ST-7800 I never ended up using (yeah I know... who in their right mind keeps those just lying around). All three from Jenson cost about 180...pretty good.

This will turn my CAAD9-6 which had 27spd Tiagra into the race horse it was meant to be (after I gutted it into a single speed...so sorry...ha ha ha)

So that leaves me with no choice but to sell off my rear tiagra 9spd derailleur (I have another Ultegra). Sell off the craptastic Sora front Derailleur and buy a braze-on triple of some-sort and turn my Y-Foil into a badass triple 9 that probably is only gonna be as good as the 6500 serious it initially came with when I got it...heh

Either way I'm excited... i'll have a nice lil stable of 3 solid rides and my endurance went up a notch and now the only thing making me afraid is the half mile swim in the tri I want to do in April...hmmm

deego

Tektro do some good carbon break levers for tri bars at very reasonable price.
Don't put normal break/gear levers on your aero bars.It kind of defeats the object .
Find some second hand shimano ,Sram or campag bar end shifters.
None of them index properly ( even when you use them with the makers own rear mechs ) so any make will work just fine .
It will encourage you to stay aero if you can change without having to get up on the bars to change gear.
better to pick the right line ease up on the pedaling and try not to break anyway !breaking is a waste of the kinetic energy you have put in ( I know there are times when you simply have to break but on a TT or tri it's a last resort)
lean more! you will be surprised how much faster you can corner than you think you can .