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Felt or Trek
I am buying my first bike to ride in sprint triathlons. I have my choices down to the Felt F95 Trek 1.2 & 1.1. Will the more agressive frame position on the felt affect my run? Also as far as bang for the buck what will I be getting as far as speed & comfort with the 1.2 & F95 as apposed to the 1.1. Thanks,
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I can't give too much help with frame geometry, but I would definitely not buy the 1.1. It has an aluminum fork, which is something that isn't so common these days. The 1.2 has a carbon fiber fork, which is supposedly a lot more comfortable than an aluminum fork.
I've never ridden an aluminum fork, but thats what I've heard. If it helps any I have a 2008 1.2 and I don't have any major complaints. However, I didn't like the stock break pads and tires, but those are cheap and easy enough to change if you don't like them. |
I don't (Felt) really have a strong (Felt) opinion either way, so I think (Felt) you should get the bike that (Felt) speaks to your soul (Felt) and gives you the best ride (Felt) for the money.
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If you are looking at (2) straight out alum. frames and both have a CF fork, I would run with the best component spec. For racing, I would personally opt for a compact double. Do both bikes have the same groupset?
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Thanks for the help guys. I went to another shop the other day and the took a look at the Bianchi Via Nirone7 2300 & the Scott S60 does anyone love or hate these bikes. I'm beginning to believe that the only difference between bikes in this price range is color scheme. I'll take the pretty blue one :thumb:
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Originally Posted by forkicks
(Post 10459076)
Thanks for the help guys. I went to another shop the other day and the took a look at the Bianchi Via Nirone7 2300 & the Scott S60 does anyone love or hate these bikes. I'm beginning to believe that the only difference between bikes in this price range is color scheme. I'll take the pretty blue one :thumb:
IMO, many of the entry-level offerings can be very similar. If you are looking for a bike to use an all-arounder (not just for tri), a solid starter road bike is a sensible way to go. If you are thinking this will be a pure triathlon machine, a used tri bike might be a better deal. For the conversation's sake, let's assume you are looking for a road bike, and all the bikes you are considering are about the same price. First, take a careful look at the component specs. If you aren't sure what some of the parts and pieces mean, feel free to post them here. Does one have full Sora, but another uses Tiagra? There are plenty of men and women here who can help you sort that out. If one stands above the rest as far as level of components are concerned, that could be your winner. On the other hand, if they are all about the same, go for the pretty blue one! :thumb: Seriously though, I would never buy a bike I didn't like the looks of. Don't discount that. If you buy one you just love to see, you'll likely be more inclined to ride it. The opposite probably also holds true. For what it's worth, my first roadie was a Trek (blue!). I still ride it, and it has been virtually bombproof. |
Originally Posted by kindablue
(Post 10455337)
I can't give too much help with frame geometry, but I would definitely not buy the 1.1. It has an aluminum fork, which is something that isn't so common these days. The 1.2 has a carbon fiber fork, which is supposedly a lot more comfortable than an aluminum fork.
I've never ridden an aluminum fork, but thats what I've heard. If it helps any I have a 2008 1.2 and I don't have any major complaints. However, I didn't like the stock break pads and tires, but those are cheap and easy enough to change if you don't like them. The agressive geometry will actually help in the run as you will use more quad and less hamstring leaving your legs a little fresher. Best thing to do is get used to doing bricks. Do 20 Km on the bike and then have your trainers ready to go and get straight off the bike and transition into a 2-3 mile run . The first 400m are always hell and it doesn't matter how hard you train it will always feel like you are going to fall flat on your face but the more you do it the more confident you will be that it will pass and your legs will adjust to the new discipline.Your heart rate will probably be higher on the run as well as it takes more BPMs to run than to bike.( I don't mean the bike is easier but It is more efficient) When I am cycling at 40kmh my heart gets to about 155 on a turbo trainer 165 on the real road and this feels like anymore and I would not be able to disperse the lactic acid but I can beat through to 175 on the run easily (even though my theoretical max heartbeat for my age is 170 this rule goes out the window when you are fit ) without hitting my lactate threshold. BRICKS , BRICKS and More BRICKS ! |
Originally Posted by deego
(Post 10472052)
Hi Mate ,I would go for the Felt,
The agressive geometry will actually help in the run as you will use more quad and less hamstring leaving your legs a little fresher. Best thing to do is get used to doing bricks. Do 20 Km on the bike and then have your trainers ready to go and get straight off the bike and transition into a 2-3 mile run . The first 400m are always hell and it doesn't matter how hard you train it will always feel like you are going to fall flat on your face but the more you do it the more confident you will be that it will pass and your legs will adjust to the new discipline.Your heart rate will probably be higher on the run as well as it takes more BPMs to run than to bike.( I don't mean the bike is easier but It is more efficient) When I am cycling at 40kmh my heart gets to about 155 on a turbo trainer 165 on the real road and this feels like anymore and I would not be able to disperse the lactic acid but I can beat through to 175 on the run easily (even though my theoretical max heartbeat for my age is 170 this rule goes out the window when you are fit ) without hitting my lactate threshold. BRICKS , BRICKS and More BRICKS ! thnx |
A BRick is when your workout consists of Biking, directly followed by Running. Sort of an acronym, but not really. Alternately, its called a brick workout because that's what your legs feel like (bricks) when you try to run after you get off the bike. Defintely something you should practice before your first tri.
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THnx. Figured it might have been BikeRunIntervalCourseKicks or something like that. Agree that its worth practicing. Biggest challenge I find is adapting down from bike speed to run speed. Does my head in every time.
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felt.
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Felt
Thanks for the help guys I believe I'm going with the Felt unless somthing feels horrible with my test ride just to confirm my opinion check out the spec for the Felt and my new #2 Scott S60
Scott Weight 21.37 lbs Frame Hydroformed Alloy Tubing Road geometry 7005 Alloy D.Butted Integrated Headtube Fork ADDICT Carbon/Alloy 1 1/8 "" Alloy steerer Integrated Shock (Rear) Headset Integrated Steel Cup Derailleur (Rear) Shimano RD 2200 24 Speed Derailleur (Front) Shimano FD 2203 - F Shifters Shimano Sora ST-2200 Dual control 24 Speed Brake Levers Brakes Scott Comp L SCBR- 316 A 41-56 mm Crankset Truvativ ISOFLOW 30/42/52 T BB-Set Truvativ 07BB 68/108 Handlebar Scott Road Drop OS Anatomic 31.8 mm H'stem Scott Road Team OS 1-1/8"" / four Bolt 31.8 mm Pedals Seatpost Scott Alloy 31.6mm Seat Scott Road Pro Hub (Front) Scott Comp 32 H Hub (Rear) Scott Comp 32 H Chain KMC IG 51 Cassette Sram PG-850 12-26 T Spokes 14 G Stainless silver 2 mm Rims Alex Race 24 Aero Profile Front / Rear 32 H Tires Hutchinson Equinox Wire 700 x 23 C Felt Finish: Gloss Orange Sizes: 650c x 47cm; 700c x 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 63cm Weight: 19.78 pounds (56cm) Frame: Felt custom butted F-Lite 7005 aluminum with butted seat tube, CNC head tube & BB shell; forged dropouts with replaceable hanger Shock: n/a Fork: Felt Carbon design with 3K finish, carbon fiber blades with 1-1/8" aluminum steerer & aluminum crown Headset: FSA Threadless 1 1/8 w/ 20mm Cone & 2 X 7.5mm Spacer Stack Stem: Felt 1.3 6061 Aluminum Forged Ø31.8mm w/ +/-10° Rise, 50cm=70mm, 52cm-54cm=90mm, 56cm-63cm=110mm. Handlebar: Felt 1.5 6061 Aluminum w/ Ergonomic Drop, Ø31.8mm, 50cm=400mm, 52cm-54cm=420mm, 56cm-63cm=440mm Grips: Felt Gel Ribbon Cork Tape w/ Felt 3D Logo Bar Ends: Bubble-Tech FE LT Logo End Plugs Shifters: Micro.Shift Integrated Shifter/Brake Lever 18 speed Front Derailleur: Shimano Sora 31.8mm clamp-on, double Rear Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra SS Short Cage Crankset: FSA TEMPO Compact, 3-PC, Aluminum, 50/34T; 50cm-52cm=170mm, 54cm-56cm=172.5mm, 58cm-63cm=175mm Chainwheel 50/34T Chainguide: n/a Bottom Bracket: FSA 68mm w/ Forged Chromoly Square Taper 110.5mm Spindle Pedals: n/a Chain: KMC X9 9-speed Freewheel: Sunrace R90-series 9-Speed Cassette, 11-25T Brake Levers: Micro.Shift Integrated Brakes: Dual Pivot w/ Cartridge Brake Shoes, Stainless Hardware & Teflon Bushings Cables: Felt Slick Brake & Derailleur Saddle: Felt 1.3 Road Saddle w/ Carbon Injected Base, Embossed Cover & Steel Rails Seat Post: Felt 1.4 6061 Aluminum Ø27.2mm, 300mm Seat Post Clamp: Ø31.8 6061-AL Forged Aluminum, Cr-Mo 5mm x 0.8mm Bolt, Stainless Steel Nut-Bar. 16 Grams Rims: Alex R500 Aluminum Rim, Machined CSW Braking Surface & Wear Indicator laced 3-Cross Rear, Radial 0-Cross Front Front Hub: Felt Sealed Forged Aluminum w/ Quick Release, 28H Rear Hub: Felt Forged Aluminum Sealed Shimano 10, 9, or 8 speed Compatible Cassette w/ Quick Release, 32H Spokes: Stainless 2.0mm Tires: Vittoria Zaffiro 700c x 23c; Thanks again |
Between those 2, I would go with the Felt, it's over a pound lighter, has a compact crankset, and is 9 speed as opposed to the Scott which is 8 speed. Can't weigh in on the Microshift levers as I've never used them, but the Felt has a better rear derailleur as well. I think you made the right call.
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Felt!!!!!!
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Felt!
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Originally Posted by 900aero
(Post 10478483)
Off topic but...... Why do you call them BRICKS? Can you put down some more detail?
thnx Lots of suggestions - "Among those is the derivation from a partial anagram of Bike-Run. Also, it may simply be a descriptive term for how your legs feel for the first part of the run. Another is credited to Mark Sisson and Scott Zagarino (1988), who associated the term brick with the idea of "Just another brick in the wall"... as noted in a song by the group "Pink Floyd". Another association of this term has been claimed to originate from a New Zealand athlete by the name of Matt Brick." From http://noosatriclub.net/index.php?op...id=4&Itemid=38 The link to the Pink Floyd was what I was told... |
Originally Posted by 900aero
(Post 10478483)
Off topic but...... Why do you call them BRICKS? Can you put down some more detail?
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