Clarification on different types of bikes
06-25-10, 09:52 AM
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Clarification on different types of bikes
I've done a ton of reading and I've done a ton of listening and the only thing I can come up with is everyone has their own advice and no one seems to know what the RIGHT answer is. And there may not be a right answer...which I'm fine with.
Info:
1) My goal is to do Ironman Lake Placid, 2012 with a few smaller triathlons between now and then.
2) I don't have $2k to spend on a bike - looking more to spend $1000
3) Not looking to JUST finish, would like to be around the 13/15hr mark.
With that info...this is what I'm understanding. PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong!
1) There are a few different types of bikes that can be used for this from what I understand.
A) Road Bike
B) Time Trial (TT?)
C) Tri Bike
Some people say to get a road bike because triathletes are getting away from actual Tri bikes. Yet...everything I see shows people riding a tri bike (I think).
I'm assuming that there is more to a tri bike than just the difference in handle bars?
2) Bike sizing seems to be something I struggle with, apparently. I'm in need of about a 62cm frame from what I understand and the basic bike fitting I did. But I'll check craigslist or bike forums and see an ad for a 60cm bike or close to what I need and it looks like it's a kids bike compared to what I've sat on so far. Are there different types of measurements that exist for overall size?
3) Not really about the name...but about the components. Is this accurate? If a Trek with Shimano 105 parts sells for $1200 and I find a Scattante with the same components for $1000. Why should I get the Trek when I'm not really caring about an extra pound of weight or the few minutes it *might* save me on my time?
I hope I don't come across as a complete idiot...just trying to do a lot of learning and do it on my own but I feel like I'm getting a lot of conflicting information.
Any help is appreciated...
Info:
1) My goal is to do Ironman Lake Placid, 2012 with a few smaller triathlons between now and then.
2) I don't have $2k to spend on a bike - looking more to spend $1000
3) Not looking to JUST finish, would like to be around the 13/15hr mark.
With that info...this is what I'm understanding. PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong!
1) There are a few different types of bikes that can be used for this from what I understand.
A) Road Bike
B) Time Trial (TT?)
C) Tri Bike
Some people say to get a road bike because triathletes are getting away from actual Tri bikes. Yet...everything I see shows people riding a tri bike (I think).
I'm assuming that there is more to a tri bike than just the difference in handle bars?
2) Bike sizing seems to be something I struggle with, apparently. I'm in need of about a 62cm frame from what I understand and the basic bike fitting I did. But I'll check craigslist or bike forums and see an ad for a 60cm bike or close to what I need and it looks like it's a kids bike compared to what I've sat on so far. Are there different types of measurements that exist for overall size?
3) Not really about the name...but about the components. Is this accurate? If a Trek with Shimano 105 parts sells for $1200 and I find a Scattante with the same components for $1000. Why should I get the Trek when I'm not really caring about an extra pound of weight or the few minutes it *might* save me on my time?
I hope I don't come across as a complete idiot...just trying to do a lot of learning and do it on my own but I feel like I'm getting a lot of conflicting information.
Any help is appreciated...
06-25-10, 09:56 AM
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Fred "The Real Fred"
Fred "The Real Fred"
06-25-10, 10:29 AM
#4
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I can help you with a couple of your questions.
TT and tri-bikes are similar or sometimes the same. Triathlons have looser rules on design than cycling events so tri specific bikes don't always qualify for doing a stand alone TT event.
But the idea is the same in that they are built for fast solo rides with an emphasis on aerodynamics over control and comfort. In addition to the bars being different, the seat post will be at a more upright angle which rotates the rider forward. The idea is to get the rider's torso more horizontal and back flat to be more aerodynamic. Note that for most people this is not the most comfortable position and that steering is some what compromised, which is why aerobars are not allowed in road/group cycling events. Tri bikes are usually equipped with deep section rims and/or a disc rear wheel both of which contribute to the aero package. Draw backs are these wheels can catch side winds and be hard to control and that they are heavy and don't accelerate or climb hills as well as shorter profile rims.
As for fit, smaller frames have become popular as they are lighter and with component selection you can make small frame fit a larger person but not so much vice versa. This site:
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO
can give you some idea of where you would want to be at, but in the end you should get properly fitted, especially for a tri-bike. Top tube length is the most important frame measurement, but unfortunately frames are generally sized by seat tube length and different companies measure that differently. Stupid, I know.
Scattantes (and some other mail order bikes) are a great value if you know exactly what you want and have the tools and know-how to tune up your bike on your own. But some of the extra money $$ for a Trek (or other bike shop bike) should pay for some good fitting advice and initial set up and servicing. That can easily be worth $200, but the trick there is finding a good local bike shop that you trust.
Best of luck, both in finding the right bike and completing you IM goal.
TT and tri-bikes are similar or sometimes the same. Triathlons have looser rules on design than cycling events so tri specific bikes don't always qualify for doing a stand alone TT event.
But the idea is the same in that they are built for fast solo rides with an emphasis on aerodynamics over control and comfort. In addition to the bars being different, the seat post will be at a more upright angle which rotates the rider forward. The idea is to get the rider's torso more horizontal and back flat to be more aerodynamic. Note that for most people this is not the most comfortable position and that steering is some what compromised, which is why aerobars are not allowed in road/group cycling events. Tri bikes are usually equipped with deep section rims and/or a disc rear wheel both of which contribute to the aero package. Draw backs are these wheels can catch side winds and be hard to control and that they are heavy and don't accelerate or climb hills as well as shorter profile rims.
As for fit, smaller frames have become popular as they are lighter and with component selection you can make small frame fit a larger person but not so much vice versa. This site:
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO
can give you some idea of where you would want to be at, but in the end you should get properly fitted, especially for a tri-bike. Top tube length is the most important frame measurement, but unfortunately frames are generally sized by seat tube length and different companies measure that differently. Stupid, I know.
Scattantes (and some other mail order bikes) are a great value if you know exactly what you want and have the tools and know-how to tune up your bike on your own. But some of the extra money $$ for a Trek (or other bike shop bike) should pay for some good fitting advice and initial set up and servicing. That can easily be worth $200, but the trick there is finding a good local bike shop that you trust.
Best of luck, both in finding the right bike and completing you IM goal.
