Tweaked a few things and more mods are in the works as I am building a new rear rack / deck that will expand my cargo carrying capacity.

Nicer Sakae stem and a new saddle, and I flipped my bars for a more comfortable and aero position.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...bikemarch3.JPG

The all important stall indicators... :)

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...bikemarch6.JPG

Under those bags it was a little dirty and those bolts need touching up... they are the only things that seem susceptible to rust and am thinking I will pick up some stainless ones.

Replaced the entry level Acera deraileur with a much better Suntour V GT from about 1972... shifting is even better, it's bombproof, and like the front D )Shimano 600) it has a quick cage feature so it can be removed without breaking the chain. This made servicing them really easy.

My extra stabilizer bars... really nice for bunjee hooks and tie down points.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...bikemarch5.JPG

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...bikemarch4.JPG

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...bikemarch2.JPG

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...bikemarch1.JPG

The monument stands to remember police officers who have been killed in the line of duty and remembers Ezio Faraone who was killed while trying to stop a robbery.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...chfaraone1.JPG

Seeing that gave me an Idea.The Local thrift shops have an abundant supply of those Aluminum collapseable walkers that could very easily be modified into racks.


Quick update:
Went to the thrift store to check out the walkers and got distracted by a Road bike with forged drops and Alum fluted seat post.:) Also came away with a pair of Alum crutches for a buck that will work great and I'll return Saturday for the walkers when everything is 50% off.

I just buy an old and cheap suspension bike. I intendet to use the rear triangle for an xtracycle.
I want to atach the triangle for de main frame whit that two suports from the BB. The hole is 10mm, I can use a hub ax.
It's a good ideea tu use that ax in that position, it is strong enough? I can use a hollow ax with QR?
Or is much better to use the BB shel, like all of you?
I make some picture to see how it's look. I will put some nuts on the ax to imobilize the rear triangle.
http://media8.dropshots.com/photos/5...329/180422.jpg

http://media6.dropshots.com/photos/5...329/180405.jpg

I personaly like useing the BB I always used them because the triangle had it, I use washers as spacers so that the rear drop out of front half of bike dosn't bend open, it;s strong and never let me down. the way you have it now may not be so good. theres alot of stress in that area sometimes, thicker the better!

@SixtyFiver: Nice changes! I need to get mine out of the garage, and find a longer stem for it like you've done. I'm using the stock Skykomish stem and it just doesn't have enough reach when using butterfly bars. I also have an actual Xtracycle snap deck to mod and install over my current racks, and then need to hit up the army/navy store for some bags to modify. The fork/front wheel have developed a wobble also, which is disconcerting. Its been slow process with all the other bikes in the garage!

@Lucian: Seeing how that point is meant to connect frame piece to frame piece, I bet it would be strong enough, although I'd use the BB for extra security/conformity. :D I like the idea that it would drop the rear of the longbike frame though, might make for a better chainline. I simply ground off the parts your trying to go through.

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7...acycle0912.jpg

corkscrew - The new stem is an exact match to the old steel stem as far as dimensions and angles go and is just a better quality and better looking part... am really liking the slightly more aggressive position on the bike (at least my back is) and the new saddle has been great from day one.

The new saddle and old V GT derailleur are making me really happy... the bike is really stiff so having a little more cush for the tush is good and there is a reason the V GT is legendary as it is considered to be one of the finest touring derailleurs ever made and was also used by early mountain bikers due to it's bombproof construction.

Will be starting work on Extrabike v 2.0 here soon as I have collected the parts needed to turn my little sister's winter / utility bike into an extrabike... she just upgraded that ride with an Alfine 8 speed IGH and her new bike will utilize this new drive system.

It should be a really beautiful bike when it's finished.

@65'er - Looking forward to seeing the progress on v2.0! I'll post up on mine when I get back to work on it! So many project bikes, so little, little time.

I have a NOS V-GT that I'm excited to use! Certainly one of the better finds at the bike co-op. Its currently mounted on a 1980 Centurion Super Lemans that I'm hoping to make into the next commuter bike as soon as I find a decent road-triple crankset for it. The longbike is still using the Shimano 200GS/Biopace parts for the drivetrain, which I must say are working just fine. Now to figure out that front end wobble...

This is good to know since i now have 3 in my collection.

I've gone so many directions with mine lately that I decided to just keep it simple since nicer weather is headed our way soon.After a shakedown ride the other day had Alot of good comments from people so I'm anxious to get done. Pictures soon.

I built this a few years ago using dumpster parts and a few items from my parts bin.
http://www.jz63.com/cycle/images/my_sub_01.jpg
http://www.jz63.com/cycle/images/my_sub_02.jpg

Looks good Boss!

Any close-ups?

You guys praising the Suntour V GT derailleur - I used to have some Suntour GT one on my Dawes Galaxy... though I don't think it was that same model, probably this one: http://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/..._style%29.html

And once it literally tore itself apart. I then mashed it back together and soon the same event occurred (I'm not sure what) and this time the derailleur held up but the rear dropout snapped right off the frame :thumb:
So it was some serious force on it, anyway.

I do like those derailleurs in general.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...98/mess004.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...98/mess006.jpg

to those with bolton methods:

does anyone notice any creaking, lateral play in the areas where the bolts are used for assembly?
what is the max weight capacity that people have seen on these setups?

Ihave an aluminum framed bike that i could make a bolt on system, or i have steel frames that i can cut and weld to my liking, im sure the bolton application would be easier though.

just wondering about durability and other things

If you have steel and can weld, go with it. My longtail has had at least 300 lbs of scrap metal on it without any creaking at all.

:)ensen.

Finally, I put all toghether.
This is gona be the FIRST Xtracycle from Romania. How cool is that?!
http://media6.dropshots.com/photos/5...414/190911.jpg

http://media8.dropshots.com/photos/5...414/190925.jpg

Very cool!

I suggest using a longer tube (in place of that red one) to get the rear drop-out lower.As it looks now it sits pretty high. it may put the bottom bracket dangerously low and could have an issue with pedal/crank to ground clearance.

I agree. Moreover, the tube should be long enough to set the original rear dropouts to the axle height of the original wheels. This way, the original steering geometry is preserved, along with the handling.

:)ensen.

Thank you for advices. I finished the build just to see how it's works, but I don't have all the pieces.
I mounting 2 racks, and I have some dificulties to put them on the same level, but I made it.
The bike is moving great, it's very fast and stable. When I make U-turns it's a little tricky, I loose my balance, but only whit load.
I climb some hills whit almost 30kg of load and it's was very easy. Amazing but true.
After that I discover a little problem. When I shifting on the smallest chainring and the bigesst sprocket, the chain is touching the tyre. My tyre aren't so big, only 559-50. I dont have vertical dropouts, so I could move the wheel a little to the left, but this is gona affect the drive.
Another solution is to move the whole rear triangle to the left. I don't wanna put another tyre. What can I do?

Thanks 65-er!
That frame is very good, I like the integrated rack. I wolud like to have one. Maybe I will weld my rack to the frame.

Can you help me whit my problem?

Remove the dish from the rear wheel and move the right dropout farther outward.

:)ensen.

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...atrace/004.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...race/001-3.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...race/002-2.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...race/007-3.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...race/014-1.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...race/015-1.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...race/003-1.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...race/001-5.jpg
My old Rock Hopper from 1981.

umm... does that bike have four front chain rings ? Because that is simply amazing....

Yes... the bike has a custom made quad instead of a triple and it has custom built cartridge hubs as well.

If you have a steel frame a competent welder should be able to build and integrate rack on to a frame... a few people I know have had similar racks added to their bikes and really like them.

In both cases it was because of heel strike issues on smaller frames.