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What frame and handlebars, and why?
Looking around this forum, and the internet in general, at utility bikes, I notice that most or all have straight handlebars or "swept back" (is that the right term?) ones, and never drop handlebars or something like that. Also, most home-made/converted cargo bikes seem to use a mountain bike frame rather than a road bike of some sort, often with mountain bike tyres still on it.
I would like to know the reasons behind this. Why are straight handle bars used primarily, and an upright position, rather than something more like a touring bike which is surely meant for good going at distance and with a load? Also, why the use of mountain bikes - is it only for the gears? I have been persuaded to try to make an xtracycle-type thing, and I will have to acquire a "new" bike for the main body. I was expecting to go for some kind of road bike and just make sure it has a small chainring available, but now I wonder if I should be thinking of something else? I have an old Mongoose mountain bike available but the front suspension and heavy weight put me off using it as the body of the bike. If you're wondering, I will specifically be using the bike for a courier service in a city, so I'll be out on it all day possibly. There's a few noteable hills in my city, that I have to stand up and really go for when I'm on my Dawes Galaxy, so consider that if it makes a difference. Thanks a lot --Joe |
Originally Posted by rock_ten
(Post 7934166)
Looking around this forum, and the internet in general, at utility bikes, I notice that most or all have straight handlebars or "swept back" (is that the right term?) ones, and never drop handlebars or something like that. ....I would like to know the reasons behind this. Why are straight handle bars used primarily, and an upright position, rather than something more like a touring bike which is surely meant for good going at distance and with a load? Also, why the use of mountain bikes - is it only for the gears?...
-------- Regarding making an extracycle: if it's possible for you to do, I would suggest getting a cheaper steel frame and cutting off the rear triangle and re-welding/brazing it all with longer tubes. You could even shift the bottom-bracket forward a few inches, for a Townie-like ride. ~ |
It all depends on the use, where you ride, how you ride..
Utility often means you want to carry more than on a "normal" bike. Stronger wheels on a MTB, also stronger frame. If you want to carry real heavy you want fat tyres, and that is easyer on a MTB. Also gearing is often better suited. Often better brakes than road bikes. Lower center of gravity, and MTB`s is easy to get, also good second hand ones. If you got rid of the fork on your MTB and got a extra long rigid fork, maybe it could be a start? Sometimes both wheels, tyres, steel rack, steelcranks and steel bars is making the bike heavy. If you can swap it for free or cheap maybe your frame can be used. All depends of your area. Here there is a lot of free stuff in the dumpsters. Bars you can decide if you use canti brakes. My impression is that most longtails has got swept back bars, but maybe that is just what I want to see.. |
Originally Posted by Doug5150
(Post 7934330)
It's mostly because the classic road bike "hunched over forward" position is not comfortable to ride in. It's good for power output, good for racing but lousy for riding comfort.
-------- Regarding making an extracycle: if it's possible for you to do, I would suggest getting a cheaper steel frame and cutting off the rear triangle and re-welding/brazing it all with longer tubes. You could even shift the bottom-bracket forward a few inches, for a Townie-like ride. ~ > Unfortunately I have no way of welding, so it will have to be an entirely bolt-based solution, which should be possible. That's a good idea, though, to just make the whole frame longer. I think I can get hold of one or two old road-bike frames that my friend just mentioned, perhaps I could think about doing that and paying for some welding. It would certainly look good for business use, like a custom-built bike. Thanks for the reply. |
Originally Posted by badmother
(Post 7934346)
It all depends on the use, where you ride, how you ride..
Utility often means you want to carry more than on a "normal" bike. Stronger wheels on a MTB, also stronger frame. If you want to carry real heavy you want fat tyres, and that is easyer on a MTB. Also gearing is often better suited. Often better brakes than road bikes. Lower center of gravity, and MTB`s is easy to get, also good second hand ones. If you got rid of the fork on your MTB and got a extra long rigid fork, maybe it could be a start? Sometimes both wheels, tyres, steel rack, steelcranks and steel bars is making the bike heavy. If you can swap it for free or cheap maybe your frame can be used. All depends of your area. Here there is a lot of free stuff in the dumpsters. Bars you can decide if you use canti brakes. My impression is that most longtails has got swept back bars, but maybe that is just what I want to see.. I'll have a better look at the frame. It's a mongoose Rockadile AL, quite a cheap bike I think, but I got it for free so I can't complain. I would perhaps just go out on my Dawes + panniers until I thought I needed to carry larger loads. But then I would miss out on the chance to publicise my company with the custom bike in a memorable colour and my logo on it, etc. Thanks for the reply. I suppose I'll see what I can get together and then try to rig something up and try it for myself, and see how it handles and how fast and how easily I can ride on a certain bike. --Joe |
If you are comfortable with drop handlebars (as I was when I was younger), use the better bike. The Mongoose bikes that people have given me are junk. I wouldn't feel safe carrying me on them, much less a load. If you have a steel touring bike, it'll be strong enough. Ride what you are most comfortable on.
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My experience with a cheap mountain bike ($100 new)- the frame was fine, everything else was junk. Maybe your mongoose is better. But don't be surprised if wheels and deraileur and brakes and all that are poor- probably one reason it was given to you!
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Remember there are different levels of Mongoose(geese?) bikes. The older Mongoose was a very good bike and equivalent to Rockhoppers, Giant, Trek and other major brands. But when they were sold out to Pacific cylcles and became WM bikes the quality plummeted. As far as drop bars vs upright, swept back. Take a look at pictures of OLD touring bikes, the bars were above the saddle, not below it. Moving large loads requires grunt, low end power. The upright bike if designed correctly is better at that than the current racing style, where the saddle is farther forward and the bars are below saddle level, kind of like the difference between a Mazda Miata and a Ford F150.:p
Aaron :) |
Well, despite the name of this forum, a cargo bike is not a utility bike. A cargo bike is intended to carry heavy and/or bulky loads.
A utility bike is intended for running errands by a not too skilled rider. The classic three speed is the model it derives from and is really intended for trips of 5 miles or less in traffic. For that the semi-upright position gives a good view of surrounding traffic without requiring the riding skill that dropped bars do. Cycle couriers usually ride a road bike converted to a single speed, given a choice, they usually are extremely fit very experienced bicyclists. They like single speeds because they need reliability and they do not usually need to climb hills. There is no reason you can not build a long haul cargo bike with dropped bars, etc. But if you are going to be moving slowly in heavy traffic you probably would want the semi-upright riding position for the same reasons a utility bike rider would. |
I think it boils down to personal preference than anything else. Although I admit that since I have no need for one, I have no experience with longtails.
I've been car-free for several years now and prefer road-style bikes. One is a racing geometry and is great for dancing in traffic. I have a rear rack on it and it's just fine for commuting and light-duty loads. It's geometry makes it unstable with heavier loads. It's doable, but not enjoyable. My second bike, a Trek Portland, mates a cyclocross front end geometry with a touring bike rear end geometry. It's just about perfect. For traffic dancing it's nearly as fun as my true roadie, but it excels at moving heavy loads at a sprightly pace with rock-solid stability. It also has mounts for a front rack, although I haven't needed one. |
Dang, I totally botched a pretty long post.
Summary: a regular bike has lots of ad space in the main triangle. A simple chloroplast sign zap strapped to the top, head ans seat tubes can be very large and visible and not get in the way at all. Also: check ou the Newsboy rack from Wald. They're cheap and huge and may negate your need for a trailer. |
Originally Posted by tashi
(Post 7957094)
Dang, I totally botched a pretty long post.
Originally Posted by tashi
(Post 7957094)
Offish Topic:
I love the impact/cost ratio of a "weird" bike with advertising on it - everyone notices it, walkers, drivers, cyclists, children never fail to point out a weird bike to their parents. An excellent way to put advertising on a normal bike is with a piece of chloroplast (I think that's the stuff, you know the corrugated plastic that election signs are made from? Lots of those available up here in Canada these days:rolleyes:) cut to fit within the main triangle of your frame. You can get decals printed, or printing right on the chloroplast (sign shop) and zap-strap it to the top, head and seat tubes. Drivers will see it while they sit in traffic (which they do a lot of in congested urban areas) and everyone else will see it when you're inside making deliveries, just start parking your bike in super visible areas. I'm not sure if your company has a particular colour pallete or not, but since you're on a bike you can work the "eco" angle just by using a bunch of green in your layout. People love to believe that their consumption choices are "good for the planet" these days. If you can make people feel good while making a tidy profit, you're really on to something! Back on topic: Have you checked out the really big "Newsboy" front rack from Wald? They're super cheap, super strong, easy to get used to, and they're always there so no planning is necessary to be able to carry large loads. You may also appreciate not having to use your courier bag all the time. The only thing that I've tried to carry on my bike that I can't do with the basket is my dog. He goes in a trailer. Gratuitous basket bike shot: Image: http://velospace.org/files/NishikiBasketBike.jpg |
Rock ten,
You might want to note your definition of courier....because based on your other thread, my take is that your definition of courier includes small parcel delivery, which is different than the common understanding of whatever I can get/attach to my courier bag fwiw, I think you might still consider a trailer.....you can use if if you have big load or not if you have a smaller load. |
Originally Posted by squirtdad
(Post 7958103)
Rock ten,
> You might want to note your definition of courier....because based on your other thread, my take is that your definition of courier includes small parcel delivery, which is different than the common understanding of whatever I can get/attach to my courier bag > fwiw, I think you might still consider a trailer.....you can use if if you have big load or not if you have a smaller load. > Having a long bike won't mean I have to use it, though - in fact I would only start taking it out if/when I need it. If I was using a trailer I'd have to go back and pick it up or drop it off when I did or didn't want, and so I could swap bikes just as easily, anyway. |
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