alternates to studs
#1
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alternates to studs
I bought a fat bike as a winter commuter. No way I'm going to spend another $200 for studded tires. No way I'm going to screw in screws into the tires per the sticky: Making your own studded tyres thread. Individual studs cost about $1ea which will total to $200.
I had read that tie wraps work well but in another thread people have noticed you can leave a trail of tie wraps behind you as they wear and fall off.
So instead of tie wraps what about bare wire? Or hose clamps with bare wires spiralled around them? Or small nuts and bolts installed on the hose clamps?
Your opinions are appreciated.
I had read that tie wraps work well but in another thread people have noticed you can leave a trail of tie wraps behind you as they wear and fall off.
So instead of tie wraps what about bare wire? Or hose clamps with bare wires spiralled around them? Or small nuts and bolts installed on the hose clamps?
Your opinions are appreciated.
#3
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It's a KHS 1000 4 season. The tires are 26 x 4 Chao Yang 120 tpi.
#4
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Reminder: studs are for ice. They're harder than the ice, so with their point-contact, they can punch through and act as little claws to maintain traction. Wire wraps aren't going to do that, especially with the low contact pressure of fat tires. Plastic tie wraps?
Try what you want, but there's a reason nothing has supplanted studded tires.
Try what you want, but there's a reason nothing has supplanted studded tires.
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Plastic tie wraps will be great, right up until you get a flat. I am kidding. Don't use plastic tie wraps. This is an absolute joke and will do nothing for you to gain traction.
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I took a quick look at the 2015 model on the KHS website - if the tires depicted in the photo online are similar to your bike's, I wouldn't worry about winter traction or stability. I have a Surly Pug with "Larry 3.8" tires - tread is similar looking - I found it very stable and great traction - I personally think studded tired would be overkill on a fat bike.
#8
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OP, how is anything wrapped around your tire going to work? I run 6-12 psi on my fat bike for winter, the tires are way soft and squishy. Do some more research on homemade studded tires, try MTBR.
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Are you riding on roads? If so, either get studded tires for this bike, make them, or get them for another bike (which will be cheaper than Dillingers or studded Snowshoe XLs). From what I have read, the Toronto area has ice for part of the year. Fat bikes are great for snow (I have one), but I will stick with studs on my 29er for when there is ice. Quite honestly, a 29er is a better option for roads in the winter, IMHO. Skimping on studs probably will work out, but if you have to visit the doctor because you hit ice...
#10
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When it comes to riding on ice, the alternative to studded tires is laying on the cold, cold ground.
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#11
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Studded front tire will cover 90% of your needs. I've done this on my winter-commuter (26" MTB) for years and plan to do this for my Pugsley this winter.
Remember, Dillinger tires come in a wide variety of sizes and types. Save money by skipping the 5" tire and skip the 120 TPI (folding version). The studded version of 27 TPI, 4 inch tire is $175. That has 240 studs, and that is honesty overkill for most applications. For $160, you get the non-studded version of the Dillinger 4 and can add your own studs. Since that's only $15, I will buy the studded Dillinger 4 27 TPI.
Fatbikes aren't cheap ... and carbide studs aren't cheap either, but keeping my body off the cold, cold ground is worth it. Also, take off the studded tire in the spring, keeping it for winter only riding and it will likely outlast the bike. Do not buy stainless steel studs, I bought some a few years ago, they don't last - if the tire doesn't say carbide, it's likely stainless steel.
If you are not riding on icy conditions, stick with knobby tires, they will do everything you need for snow.
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(cyclist weight + bicycle weight) x 70% = roughly 250lb x 70% = 175lb
Try with 250lb nylon 6/6 cable ties instead if you want to have a chance.
Anyway, good cable ties are very expensive and for single use + the tie head is very big which makes the ride funky
Not worth the trouble.
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Spend the $200 for studded tires.
If you insist on being a dense-headed mule, I can tell you a hospital bill will cost you a lot more than a spare of studded tires.
Broken arms, hands, collarbones, legs and a shattered tibia - among other injuries, ain't fun.
In Toronto where you live, during the winter, studded tires on your bikes aren't a luxury; they're an absolute safety necessity.
And keeping you from a dangerous crash is well worth $200 IMHO and that of the other posters on here.
If you insist on being a dense-headed mule, I can tell you a hospital bill will cost you a lot more than a spare of studded tires.
Broken arms, hands, collarbones, legs and a shattered tibia - among other injuries, ain't fun.
In Toronto where you live, during the winter, studded tires on your bikes aren't a luxury; they're an absolute safety necessity.
And keeping you from a dangerous crash is well worth $200 IMHO and that of the other posters on here.
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I have no first had experience, but the owner of an LBS I frequent is a year round commuter who told me that he has never had any traction issues with his fatty w/o studs in the winter. Granted Minnesota winters are mild.
#16
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Here in New England we get lots of freeze/thaw. Which mean ice. For those of you who live in the FAR north (like MN) they might just be like cold and snow. Don't cha know. I did a full on left side body slam in March on wet pavement with ice underneath. On the only icy corner in 18 miles. Sub optimal experience. Didn't even get my arm out, maybe a good thing. Got the wind knocked out of my from the left side. Studded tires would have been better. Helmet worked great.
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I guess that is the thing about ice / you never know. Studs ... certainly an insurance policy, one way to look at it, at least it gives you better odds if you hit bad ice conditions.
I have never rode on pure ice - say untreated pavement after a major freezing rain event. My rides are recreational/fitness - so if it's really bad I don't go.
I have aver studded tires on my hybrid for winter - they're awesome.
I've found the traction on the knobby tires on my fat bike to be great, even the random patch of black ice seems inconsequential.
But it on second thought, if I were commuting and had to ride ... I'd spring for studded tires.
I have never rode on pure ice - say untreated pavement after a major freezing rain event. My rides are recreational/fitness - so if it's really bad I don't go.
I have aver studded tires on my hybrid for winter - they're awesome.
I've found the traction on the knobby tires on my fat bike to be great, even the random patch of black ice seems inconsequential.
But it on second thought, if I were commuting and had to ride ... I'd spring for studded tires.
#18
Banned
I have the same Suomi-Nokian tires I bought in 1991.. 26x1.9 " tungsten-steel alloy studs dont wear down.
they last in car tires you know,
but you can buy fatbike tires made with studs .. LBS just mailed a pair (folding bead )
to a friend the USCG transferred to the Kodiak Island Base.
they last in car tires you know,
but you can buy fatbike tires made with studs .. LBS just mailed a pair (folding bead )
to a friend the USCG transferred to the Kodiak Island Base.
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I went DIY with self-tapping screws into a cheap tyre with large, well separated studs.
They won't last as long as carbide, so probably not best for long, icy winters but they work well for 2-3 weeks of freezeup. I have used them on slick, wet ice with no problem.
If you can't afford carbide studs, hardened screws will do the job.
They won't last as long as carbide, so probably not best for long, icy winters but they work well for 2-3 weeks of freezeup. I have used them on slick, wet ice with no problem.
If you can't afford carbide studs, hardened screws will do the job.
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I had read that tie wraps work well but in another thread people have noticed you can leave a trail of tie wraps behind you as they wear and fall off.
So instead of tie wraps what about bare wire? Or hose clamps with bare wires spiralled around them? Or small nuts and bolts installed on the hose clamps?
Your opinions are appreciated.
#21
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Good advice folks. I do have a beater mountain bike that has studded tires: Continental Spike Claw 120. I'll skip the DYI route.