Sounds like sound advice. What type of lube do you recommend, and is lithium grease good for the "dab a glob" you mentioned?

For shifters and cables (not drivetrain) I use silicone spray for winter lube. It doesn't gum up in the very cold.

I'd add to that if you use clipless, relube the cleats. I'm currently trying to get my cleats off my old shoes so i can put them on my new lake boots.

I've had a problem with frozen thumbs at below-freezing temps. I wear Saucony running gloves as liners under ski mittens, and usually my hands are fine. But, we've been having windy 0 degree nights (I ride home from work at 11pm), and by the time I make it home (6 miles) my thumbs are painfully cold.

To solve this wind issue, I cut a hole in the bottom corner of a couple 1 gallon plastic ziplock bags and slipped them over my handlebars. The bar ends on the mountain bike help keep the baggies in the right position since I have those bar ends that make an almost 90 degree angle out in front of the brakes.

Essentially, this is a poor mans poggie and REALLY cuts down on wind chill on your hands! I'll take a few pictures when I get home tonight.

Put a few drops of cycling oil in the cable housing going into your rear derailluer. Do this occasionally. It will work itself down quickly. It will help you shift in frigid temps.

If your riding in frigid temperatures. Get good gear. It's worth the comfort.

Okay, here are some pics of the frostbite fightin' baggies, as promised! And obviously I would be wearing gloves when my hand is in the baggie.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...s/100_3442.jpg
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...s/100_3439.jpg
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...s/100_3440.jpg

+1 ziplock pogies
 

+1 ziplock pogies

I find that when it warms up, the pogies trap moisture, so if you're riding without gloves they give you a clammy feeling when they stick to back of your hands. Wearing a light glove works great. They're good for rain, because soggy wet gloves are no fun, either. I wrapped packing tape over the hole where the cabling passes thru, and that keeps the bag from continuing to rip open wider. I roll up the mouth of the bag to make it easier to place my hands on the bars and it helps shape them open.

I havent found anything that works really well, I use wheel bearing grease. It will gob up in the real cold though.

Another tip, dont try to wash your bike when its below freezing... Or just after it warmed up from a below freezing night and the metal on the bike is really cold. I tried to clean the dirt off my bike the other day with soap and water, I couldnt dry it quick enough, it kept freezing to the metal.

Does anyone have a tip to keep freezing fog from collecting on your glasses?

i like using a 5 speed 20" rear rim during winter so i can keep my feet on the ground on the really icy days. plus it moves your weight back. i also make sure my tires are at least 35psi because if they get too low i end up just spinning my tires more than i move.

Quote:

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You sweat, you die.
- Les Stroud

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:thumb:

Good howto on winterizing an extracycle: http://www.webikeeugene.org/index.ph...our-xtracycle/

Gloves and toe covers! Thatll help with the hands and cold toes!

On really sloppy days, I spray the underside of the downtube, BB and chainstays with Pam cooking spray. I give the underside of the fenders a good spritz, too, helps keep them from icing up and rubbing on the tire. It's just vegetable oil so it's biodegradable, unlike WD40. Won't displace water at all, but the schmutz just wipes right off. Especially handy if you keep your bike locked up outside.

Check out your local salvation army for clothing. Spent $3.50 and came home with a pair of gloves, 2 hats, neck gaiter, and ear warmers.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=182460

if you have disc brakes and particularly avid elixir crs take out the brake pad retaining bolts occasionally and lightly smear with grease to stop them seizing in the caliper. Alternatively (as I had did) just throw them away and replace with split pins. If the bolts seize in the caliper (which one of mine did) you might have to throw the brake away because drilling them out is not so easy as the caliper body is soft aluminium while the bolt is very hard steel. In my case I managed to cut the bolt up with a dremel and slot the head to get the bolt out but it was a close thing.

A split pin? aka a cotter pin? i don't think that provides enough clamping force...? Maybe an m6 anchor bolt?

I was referring to the brake pad retaining bolt- this doesn´t exert any clamping force at least on my avid elixirs- it just goes through the hole in the brake pads and stops them exiting the brake- some brakes, e.g. at least one model of Shimano LX, have a split pin here as standard (albeit usually the lower end brakes).

Ah, sorry. Misread your original post.

Here area few things I've learned:

1. Carry an extra layer to put on in case of a mechanical, yours or someone else's
2. Keeping your legs warm is key to keeping your feet warm
3. Metal cleats conduct heat away from the bottom of your feet, the hardest part to keep warm. Plastic cleats conduct less and are noticably more comfortable.

I am not sure if this has been mentioned, probably has, but I saw someone the other day sporting zip ties to ride through the snow..

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=191746

+1 to the cheap bag idea I plan on do that myself after reading your post. I really needed something over the weekend when it rained a crap ton. I also get off work at 11 at night and I also have a fun and interesting 7 mile ride home.

Wash your glasses with soapy water...should help a lot...

They do, you have to purchase them from fetish stores. Also available in thigh hi's and rainbow brite colors

If you lock your bike up outside bring a lighter with you so you can get your bike unlocked. Instead of haveing to cut the lock or break a key off inside the lock.:crash:

Plasti Dip your cycling shoes to keep your feet toasty and dry! Removal is easy as you can peal it off, or rub your thumb over it until it starts to fall apart. A good coating will last a while before you need to remove it and redo it. It is only like a few dollars at your local hardware store and comes in many different colors.