ancker

I've been using these: Robot Check

They work great and are reasonably light.

Ygduf

I have the expensive ones (mandibles) on my race bikes and they held those cytomax bottles at Snelling/Bariani/Ward's Ferry.

I just ordered some of the $12 ones to use as cages on the TT bike, but haven't felt them in person yet. I think the mandible is the gold-standard around here in bottle cage form and function. You can probably find equal function for less, but I just took everyone's advice and view it as a one-time cost. No regrets. Mandibles on my foil are dirty as hell, but work like new after 4 years.

Hermes

I use Arundel and they seem to last and hold the bottle with the proviso that I have not done Copperopolis with them. I check out stuff like this at the bike shop that Fudgy and I use. The owner is very discerning when it comes to quality stuff that is reliable.

shovelhd

Watch for sales from western bike works. I've never paid retail for my Arundel cages. I got the last set for $70/pair.

hack

caloso

That really is the gold standard.

revchuck 

Yeah, I realize that if I were a real racer, I wouldn't need a taillight for my TT bike. However (comma, pause for effect) I tend to train near sunrise on rural roads with little-to-no shoulder where fog is common. I've got a Serfas unit that kinda works, but it's approaching the end of its life cycle. I need something that has an attachment system/strap that works on an aero seatpost, is USB rechargeable, and is only slightly less intense than a nuclear blast's flash. Suggestions?

echappist

sounds like what you need is something that'll allow you to attach a light to one of those rear bottle holder things.

your bike shop may also be able to rig something up to attach the light

hack

I use this guy:

Axiom Pulse 60 LED Tail Light

It's pretty cheap, super bright, USB charging, and attaches with a rubberized hook. I use it on a Venge and that is probably near it's max limit for streching. So, if you're seatpost is in that size range, it should be good to go.

caloso

A friend of mine uses one of these: Serfas Thunderbolt USB LED Tail Light

It's insanely bright and (I think) fits an aero seatpost.

tetonrider

yeah, i don't know what is up with that pricing. i got mine from euro-land years ago (4? 5?) and they were like $25. not sure what is up with them now--seems like they are discontinued.

that uma shape works well. i think there is (was?) a non-carbon version.

otherwise, mandibles are expensive but are bomber. i use them for MTB.

mike868y

still getting REALLY bad chain drop when cross chaining. but, my chain is super worn, so I'm assuming this is it (need to replace whenever I've got a chance to breath). big chainring is relatively new (replaced in the fall). could it be my rd not tensioning the chain enough (assuming the new chain doesn't fix it)? or is it more likely just that 52/36 rings suck?

Doge

Light tension can contribute. You didn't say where it was dropping - outside or inside. I assume inside. Try turning FD cage clockwise about .5 degree / rear of FD is 1-2 mm closer to wheel and re-adjust the H/L accordingly.
This seems to matter more on Shimano than SRAM.

Edonis13

The rubber strap on this guy has a lot of adjust-ability. It's incredibly bright and USB rechargeable.

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Micro...=hotshot+micro

mike868y

yeah inside, and i'm on shimano.

gonna change the fd when i change the chain (currently on ultegra, but i've had a dura ace fd sitting around unused).

thanks for the tips!

abhirama

Want to get a used pair of deep section wheels and since I want to use my PT wheel, I was wondering how much advantage I would be giving up if I use only a front deep section wheel? I remember reading a long time back that the front wheel's contribution is greater but was wondering if there was some data available.

echappist

giving up about 1/4 to 1/3 of the overall savings. People do this all the time in collegiate cycling, though it does make for sketchy handling

then again, the watts you save with wheels aren't that large to begin with. 10-12W at 25mph for 60 mm deep rims

echappist

all this rear light mounting has me wondering: who makes a rear fender that can be attached to an aero seatpost? I have fenders on my road bike and don't have to wash my jersey and bib separately to get rid of the grime after a ride. I rode in the rain on my TT bike today, and my vest is just covered in dirt.

carpediemracing 

Isn't there something that attaches to the saddle rails?

caloso

Ass Savers - Bicycle mudguards

shovelhd

I have an SKS, which has an adjustable clamp designed for round posts. I would think a 1" section of 1/2" ID rubber fuel line slit lengthwise would make a fine shim.

carpediemracing 

As pointed out it's about 1/4-1/3. The front wheel is 2/3 to 3/4 of the benefit of the rear, depending on the situation. I think the biggest benefit to an aero rear wheel is in a strong cross/tailwind, and I don't think it's as advantageous to have the aero front in a situation like that.

I used to run a TriSpoke/HED3 front with a regular wheel in the rear. Coincidntally, looking at the clip, it was the couple months I had a PT wheel, so same situation as you're describing. I have both a clincher and tubular front Trispoke/HED3 so I trained on the clincher, raced on the tubular, so handling wasn't an issue. When I did some very unofficial, uncontrolled, n=1 (me) tests, the front TriSpoke gave me a few mph in a sprint, so high speeds. At regular speeds it would have been less significant.

Doge

If you are going to use one, use the front.
But...I have done some yet inconclusive testing that seems to show there is energy (higher heart rate - same power) in stabilizing a high profile wheel in cross winds when on the forearms on bar top (Merckx TT position). I expect while a sliver of the total energy lost that counts for regular riding too.

abhirama

Cool. 2/3 to 3/4 sounds like it's quite significant and it makes sense that at greater yaw it will not be as much. Regarding the handling part, being big and fat, I won't be blown around so much and also, I'll be using it on a road bike without aero bars. But yeah, I'm sure it will take some getting used to.
@echappist 10-12w, while not too significant, at my punitive power outputs is not insignificant either :-P since you said savings from wheels aren't that high, i went and reread the TT sticky. Looks like I should be considering an aero helmet too. The only problem with that is I sweat like no one I know and I could use every bit of ventilation.

valygrl

You can put a cover on the powertap wheel. Aero Disc Cover - AeroJacket - Wheelbuilder.com

Not legal in all races, but ok at local USAC races.