Internal Cable Routing Tips and Tricks?
#1
Tiocfáidh ár Lá
Thread Starter
Internal Cable Routing Tips and Tricks?
Hello,
I have a '99 Cervelo Eyre that needs to be wired up. It has internal cable routing. The holes in the frame are quite large and there is a fitting called a cable stop for each of these holes so that the interior is bare cable and no housing. So it's easy enough to get the cable in there but I am wondering if any one has any tips on how to guide the cable through the frame to the exit hole. I suppose if it was already wired I could just duck tape a wire to the existing wire and just pull it through but this one is not wired yet. Any thoughts? Would a magnet help?
Regards.
I have a '99 Cervelo Eyre that needs to be wired up. It has internal cable routing. The holes in the frame are quite large and there is a fitting called a cable stop for each of these holes so that the interior is bare cable and no housing. So it's easy enough to get the cable in there but I am wondering if any one has any tips on how to guide the cable through the frame to the exit hole. I suppose if it was already wired I could just duck tape a wire to the existing wire and just pull it through but this one is not wired yet. Any thoughts? Would a magnet help?
Regards.
#2
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I use a spoke to hook the cable..
when feeding the cable through do it in a stabbing motion several times twisting the cable
when feeding the cable through do it in a stabbing motion several times twisting the cable
#3
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To do this job quick and easy you need an air compressor, air nozzle, masking tape, and string. Fire up the air compressor and set the regulator to about 10 PSI, you don't want a lot of air pressure. Tape up all openings except where the cable starts in the frame and exits. Start the string in the cable hole and hold the air nozzle so air will push the string into the frame. Feed the string into the frame while still blowing air. The end of the string will magically exit the other hole! Now tie your cable to the string and pull the cable through.
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On my Klein, the cable stops in the top tube (rear brake) are at both ends, but the cable stops for the derailleur cables in the down tube are only at the top (makes sense).
The proper way to do this of couse is to put cable liner through the tubes before you remove the old cable.
I've been successful using a thin piece of copper wire to find the downstream hole but I had to take the cable stop insert out of the back end of the top tube first.
I envy all you guys with air compressors though.
The proper way to do this of couse is to put cable liner through the tubes before you remove the old cable.
I've been successful using a thin piece of copper wire to find the downstream hole but I had to take the cable stop insert out of the back end of the top tube first.
I envy all you guys with air compressors though.
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To do this job quick and easy you need an air compressor, air nozzle, masking tape, and string. Fire up the air compressor and set the regulator to about 10 PSI, you don't want a lot of air pressure. Tape up all openings except where the cable starts in the frame and exits. Start the string in the cable hole and hold the air nozzle so air will push the string into the frame. Feed the string into the frame while still blowing air. The end of the string will magically exit the other hole! Now tie your cable to the string and pull the cable through.
+1. And you can do the same thing in reverse with a vacuum - and most everyone has a vacuum.
#6
Tiocfáidh ár Lá
Thread Starter
Thanks a lot, good tips. I do indeed have a vacuum I'll be working on this tonight.
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this maybe make/model specific, but w/ my 2006 kestrel talon sl i found that i could relatively easily insert a cable housing into the rear derailleur cable channels of the chain stay and the down tube by going in through the outlet port. i had no luck trying to go through the inlet ports, either w/ a cable housing or w/ a cable.
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I have an old steel frame that has an internal cable routing but does not have have housing inside the frame. I take out the seat post and there is a large hole for the top tube that you can guide the cable out the housing hole with your finger, it works very easily.
you can see the hole in this photo
So take your seat post out and see if you have a similar hole. push the cable in from the front of the bike and put your index finger in this hole and when you feel the cable, push the cable up through the cable guide hole.
you can see the hole in this photo
So take your seat post out and see if you have a similar hole. push the cable in from the front of the bike and put your index finger in this hole and when you feel the cable, push the cable up through the cable guide hole.
Last edited by cyclist2000; 05-15-10 at 08:45 PM. Reason: added link
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Boy, somebody recommended using a magnet to me, and it worked like a *charm* on my Kestrel Talon (don't recommend it for that steelie!). I bought a set of four strong button magnets in Wal*Mart's craft department and stacked them, and they pulled the end of the cable wherever I wanted it. Could not have been easier, 30 seconds per cable run max. Give it a try.
KeS
KeS