CCrew

Ok, I'm sorry if I'm igniting a Ford vs Chevy type war here

Just looking for a general consensus of what's the best replacement chain out there for a 10 speed Shimano setup. Has a factory KMC on it now that is showing (to me) a bit more wear than I'd like at 1k miles. Would like to find something still in the lighter than a boat anchor area that has some durability to it.

Thanks.

embe

I'm on a 10 speed ultegra and very happy with performance. Had local trek store pricematch online for $28

MudPie

Yup, these threads usually turn out to be quite exciting re: Chevy v Ford. Even guys in my ride group "discuss" this on long rides.

Since you asked, here goes:

I had a Shimano 105 (stock on Madone) and it was stretched beyond the 1/16" (closer to 1/8" in some places) at 2500 miles. I replaced it with a SRAM PC 1090 chain. i have about 1000 miles on it, and zero problems. (I also replaced the original 105 cassette with SRAM PG 1070.). I've been using SRAM on my mountain and road rigs for >10 years, so I am partial to SRAM.

BTW - if you want to really stir the pot, also ask what's the best chain lube and mention WD 40 in the same post. That's the Forum equivalent of throwing a match on gasoline.

johnknappcc

Whatsamatter with WD40 for some good ol' chain lube??? Muhahahahahaha

Oh yeah . . .

+1 on the SRAM (either 1070 or 1090, 90 just has hollow pins and a slightly nicer finish).

MudPie

Use that as a post title and scores will have high blood pressure/veins buldging/clenched teeth on a Saturday night! You'd also have a good chance of crashing the host server.

CCrew

Thanks guys.. I've used SRAM on all my 9 speed and below, but it's my understanding that the 10sp Powerlinks aren't reusable on SRAM 10sp, correct? Is there another link I can use on the SRAM chain? I'm pretty anal about maint and usually pull the chain to clean and lube, the idea of a new link every time isn't appealing.

Ok, and I can use WD-40? Cool. So much cheaper than the Boeshield I use

MudPie

Correct, the 10 spd Powerlock is not reuseable like the 9 spd Powerlinks. I'm with you and am fairly meticulous with chain maintenance. That's what I loved about the Powerlinks, easy to disconnect/reconnect and nothin' says clean like a good chain soakin'.



I'b be interested to learn of compatible master links, too.

joejack951

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...2&category=276
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...6&category=276

MudPie

I assume these work with SRAM?

joejack951

I can't imagine why they wouldn't. I don't think that there is any singificant difference in chain width between Shimano and SRAM.

nitropowered

i really like the new 7900 and 6700 chains. Last a whole lot longer than the older shimano chains and shift nicer too.

I've had a KMC dx10sc stretch out way too quick for my taste but I have not tried the X10SL

DaveSSS 

This topic has been covered in great detail, a lot of times. The chain that will elongate the least is Campy. A cheap Veloce chain ($29 at Ribble) will last as long as a Record chain. I've used one for 6,000 miles and not come close to the "allowable" 1/16 inch per foot elongation, but that chain was still shot due to roller and side wear.

FRom the chain wear tests that I've done, a Shimano DA 7801 chain elongated the fastest. Even a cheap KMC DX10SC was better.

Don't use WD-40 as a regular chain lube. Even though it has about the same percentage of oil as many popular homebrew lubes, the oil doesn't perform near as well as ordinary motor oil or gear lube. I recently completed a chain wear test using WD-40 for about 1500 miles and got quite a bit more elongation than an identical chain lube with my homebrew (both Campy 11 speed). I mix my homebrew with 3-4 parts mineral spirits or naptha to 1 part synthetic motor oil or 80/90W gear lube.


None of the common chain wear measuring tools, including the Park chain checker produces an accurate measurement of chain elongation (change in pitch) because these tools add roller wear to the measurement and most measure over a very short length. The roller wear can be as large as the elongation, so the tool may report twice the actual elongation. Many riders are tossing their chains when they are only half worn.

One way to measure elongation is with a 12" scale. Place an accurate 12” scale on the edge of a pin. The pin at the opposite end will be totally covered when the chain is new. As the chain wears, this pin will begin to “peak out” from under the scale. Change the chain before ½ of this pin is exposed. The maximum commonly recommended wear is 1/16” (.063”) per foot. One half of a pin is slightly more (.070 inch).

Elongation is only half of the chain wear issue. The rollers also wear – as much as 20-30 time more than the pins and their mating bushing (which causes elongation). New rollers will measure .200 - .210 inch in between them, depending on the brand. When this distance increases to .235-.240, I consider the chain to be shot. It is possible to have this much roller wear and very little elongation. I've had a chain with 6000 miles of use, that had only 1/4 of the allowable elongation, but rollers were extremely worn. Some calipers can reach deep enough to measure the distance between the rollers. But I prefer a cheap home made plug gage. I took a 6mm hex wrench and ground it down to a thickness of about .070 inch to fit between the inner plates of the narrowest chain.

Lateral wear (side flex) also plays a role in shifting performance. The longest I've use a Campy 10 chain is 6000 miles, but even at this point the lateral wear was not degrading the shifting significantly. A new chain will have .004-.008 inch of clearance, while my chain with 6000 miles on it had .012-013. A feeler gage will quickly tell you the amount of clearance between the inner and outer plates.

Changing a chain long before these wear criteria is met is not likely to increase cog life. It's entirely possible to wear out at least one or two cogs over the life of a single chain, if it's used for too long. I've used a single chain for 6000 miles, and worn out one cog, even though the chain showed little elongation. The only practical way to detect a worn cog is by installing a new chain. If the chain skips on a cog, while pedaling under a heavy load, then the cog is too worn to use with a new chain. If you install a new chain and don't get skipping with any of the cogs, there is no reason to change the cassette.

The best way to maximize cog life is to alternate the use of 3 chains, changing every 2000 miles, or at least before each chain is half worn. With this method a new chain will never be installed on worn cogs. With the proper rotation, the third new chain will not skip when it's installed on the cassette. When all of the chains are worn out, then most likely the cassette will be too. I aim for 5,000 miles from a Campy UN chain and 15,000 miles from the cassette.

As for masterlinks, the SRAM 10 and Campy 10 UN chains can use the same master links. The SRAM 10 powerloc can be reused, if removed with a special pair of pliers and if it still has some snap to it when it's reinstalled. KMC makes a special missing link that will fit these chain. KMC, Shimano and the current Wipperman 10 are a little wider across the inner plates and require a different link that's wider in between the outer plates. Links for these chains are interchangeable.