Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

What type of Aluminum are Cannondale Optimo frames?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

What type of Aluminum are Cannondale Optimo frames?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-08-05, 09:06 PM
  #1  
Retired Member
Thread Starter
 
ultra-g's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Queens New York
Posts: 1,180

Bikes: Bianchi Pisa, LeMond Poprad

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
What type of Aluminum are Cannondale Optimo frames?

I'm asking because I'm trying to decide between about 6 different bikes that I'm interested in, I can get 1 of them when I get my tax refund, the different frames materials range between:

Reynolds 631
Columbus Foco
7005 Aluminum
Cannondale CAAD7 Optimo
Easton Ultralite.

The models are: Bianchi Eros, Bianchi Axis, Specialized Allez Cr-mo, Cannondale Cyclocross, Cannondale R700 and the Felt Track (TK1) or Bianchi Pista Concept.

Sounds strange to be interested in bikes ranging from Road to Cross to Track but they all would suit me well riding 200 miles a week in NYC (I've only ridden fixed gear so far, so I'm still deciding what type of gearing I should have... I had a road bike for only 2 weeks but ended up selling it for a track bike).
ultra-g is offline  
Old 02-08-05, 09:11 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by ultra-g
I'm asking because I'm trying to decide between about 6 different bikes that I'm interested in, I can get 1 of them when I get my tax refund, the different frames materials range between:

Reynolds 631
Columbus Foco
7005 Aluminum
Cannondale CAAD7 Optimo
Easton Ultralite.

The models are: Bianchi Eros, Bianchi Axis, Specialized Allez Cr-mo, Cannondale Cyclocross, Cannondale R700 and the Felt Track (TK1) or Bianchi Pista Concept.

Sounds strange to be interested in bikes ranging from Road to Cross to Track but they all would suit me well riding 200 miles a week in NYC (I've only ridden fixed gear so far, so I'm still deciding what type of gearing I should have... I had a road bike for only 2 weeks but ended up selling it for a track bike).
You are comparing alot of apples, grapefruit and watermelons. Optimo is a 6xxxx type aluminum.Keep in mind,you ride a frame,not an alloy.FWIW, Easton ultralite is just another 7xxx.
sydney is offline  
Old 02-08-05, 09:17 PM
  #3  
Retired Member
Thread Starter
 
ultra-g's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Queens New York
Posts: 1,180

Bikes: Bianchi Pisa, LeMond Poprad

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sydney
You are comparing alot of apples, grapefruit and watermelons. Optimo is a 6xxxx type aluminum.Keep in mind,you ride a frame,not an alloy.FWIW, Easton ultralite is just another 7xxx.
Thanks again for the info. I know, Apples to Oranges, I have a Bianchi Pista right now, which is Bianchi Chromoly (not Reynolds) and it's a nice ride, but I'm concerned about riding it in the rain, which is why I'm considering another aluminum bike.

I could get my frame treated with frame saver, but I don't have the space/time to do it on my own and don't trust to have it done at a bike shop (for all I know I could pay them $75 to let the bike sit there for 3 days without anything being done to it).

I understand too that I'm riding a bike and not frame material, and probably am over thinking it at this point.
ultra-g is offline  
Old 02-08-05, 09:29 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by ultra-g
Thanks again for the info. I know, Apples to Oranges, I have a Bianchi Pista right now, which is Bianchi Chromoly (not Reynolds) and it's a nice ride, but I'm concerned about riding it in the rain, which is why I'm considering another aluminum bike.

I could get my frame treated with frame saver, but I don't have the space/time to do it on my own and don't trust to have it done at a bike shop (for all I know I could pay them $75 to let the bike sit there for 3 days without anything being done to it).

I understand too that I'm riding a bike and not frame material, and probably am over thinking it at this point.
Rain and rust is hardly the issue people try and make it. A BB drain hole takes care of alot of it, as will a spray of wd40 down the seattube and into any vent holes.
sydney is offline  
Old 02-08-05, 09:35 PM
  #5  
Retired Member
Thread Starter
 
ultra-g's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Queens New York
Posts: 1,180

Bikes: Bianchi Pisa, LeMond Poprad

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sydney
Rain and rust is hardly the issue people try and make it. A BB drain hole takes care of alot of it, as will a spray of wd40 down the seattube and into any vent holes.

Do you mean drilling a hole into the bottom bracket? I usually just take off the seat post and let the bike sit overnight upside down after I've ridden in rain.

Anyway, I know I'm too paranoid, a friend of mine has a Colnago fixed gear that's about 15 years old that he uses around town, he's never treated it with framesaver either.
ultra-g is offline  
Old 02-08-05, 11:29 PM
  #6  
I drink your MILKSHAKE
 
Raiyn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 15,061

Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by ultra-g
Do you mean drilling a hole into the bottom bracket?
No the frame where the bottom bracket is located,
__________________
Raiyn is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 09:32 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
DieselDan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Beaufort, South Carolina, USA and surrounding islands.
Posts: 8,521

Bikes: Cannondale R500, Motobecane Messenger

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Take the screw out of the cable guide under the BB. The tension from the cable will hold the guide in place, just remember to reinstall the screw before you ride again. My Cannondale even has a screw in the right chain stay for drainage.
DieselDan is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 09:46 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by DieselDan
Take the screw out of the cable guide under the BB. The tension from the cable will hold the guide in place, just remember to reinstall the screw before you ride again. My Cannondale even has a screw in the right chain stay for drainage.
It's just alot easier to drill a small hole, and be done with it.
sydney is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 09:53 AM
  #9  
Get the stick.
 
darkmother's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 1,543

Bikes: 12 Y.O. Litespeed MTB, IRO Jamie Roy fixie, Custom Habanero Ti 'Cross, No name SS MTB, Old school lugged steel track bike (soon)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I wouldn't discount steel as a good frame material because of corrosion issues. High quality cro mo steel generally doesn't rot out like the 1010 or 1020 stuff used in cars. It is far more resistant to corrosion, more like the steel used in tools. Surface rust is common, but deep pitting is unlikely. I have riden steel frames for years in the winter (complete with lots of salt) and have never had a corrosion related frame failure, or witnessed anything more than surface oxide on the interior of my frames. If you are worried, you can easily treat the inside of the tubes with rust inhibitor, oil or even WD-40 believe it or not. I remember a local frame builder took 3 sections of 4130 Cromo, sand blased them to remove the surface oxides, then treated one with rust inhibitor, one with WD-40 and the last one with nothing. He then put all three outside, mounted on a wooden stake stuck in the ground. The WD-40 coated tube was still shiney after several months of exposure.

Drain hole is a good idea too, and certainly won't hurt anything.

There are good frames made of all kinds of materials. Look closely at the high stress areas like dropouts, around the BB, and near the HT. Base your desision to buy on design, and bike fit, not just what the sticker on the seat tube says.
darkmother is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 11:51 AM
  #10  
serenity NOWWW!
 
amahana1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern Iraq
Posts: 319

Bikes: custom surly SS, several others in the works

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by darkmother
I wouldn't discount steel as a good frame material because of corrosion issues. High quality cro mo steel generally doesn't rot out like the 1010 or 1020 stuff used in cars. It is far more resistant to corrosion, more like the steel used in tools. Surface rust is common, but deep pitting is unlikely. I have riden steel frames for years in the winter (complete with lots of salt) and have never had a corrosion related frame failure, or witnessed anything more than surface oxide on the interior of my frames. If you are worried, you can easily treat the inside of the tubes with rust inhibitor, oil or even WD-40 believe it or not. I remember a local frame builder took 3 sections of 4130 Cromo, sand blased them to remove the surface oxides, then treated one with rust inhibitor, one with WD-40 and the last one with nothing. He then put all three outside, mounted on a wooden stake stuck in the ground. The WD-40 coated tube was still shiney after several months of exposure.

Drain hole is a good idea too, and certainly won't hurt anything.

There are good frames made of all kinds of materials. Look closely at the high stress areas like dropouts, around the BB, and near the HT. Base your desision to buy on design, and bike fit, not just what the sticker on the seat tube says.
I second this opinion. If you like it, and it fits you well then buy it. I ride cromo and alu frames and love them both and no corrosion issues with the cromo whatsoever.
amahana1 is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 01:57 PM
  #11  
Retrogrouch in Training
 
bostontrevor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Knee-deep in the day-to-day
Posts: 5,484
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Remember, a drain hole doesn't just protect the frame, it keeps your bottom bracket from swimming around in its own swill after your bike takes a bath.
bostontrevor is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 03:27 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Waxbytes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 545
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
Q:"What type of Aluminum are Cannondale Optimo frames?"
Ans: Thin, really thin.
Waxbytes is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 04:28 PM
  #13  
lover ....
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Foco is 7xxx series as well.

Hate to say it, but American manufacturers still seem to do the best job with oversize Al.
Bike_13 is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 04:45 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Bike_13
Foco is 7xxx series as well.

Hate to say it, but American manufacturers still seem to do the best job with oversize Al.
Last time I checked, Foco was steel , and new school stuff at that.
sydney is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 05:34 PM
  #15  
lover ....
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sydney
Last time I checked, Foco was steel , and new school stuff at that.
Correct, I was getting confused with Zonal.
Bike_13 is offline  
Old 02-10-05, 08:50 PM
  #16  
Retired Member
Thread Starter
 
ultra-g's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Queens New York
Posts: 1,180

Bikes: Bianchi Pisa, LeMond Poprad

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks!

I've decided to go with a Steel frame Lemond (True Temper OX Platinum steel, which I guess is on par with Reynolds 853).

I'm going nuts just thinking about it.
ultra-g is offline  
Old 02-11-05, 08:56 AM
  #17  
Get the stick.
 
darkmother's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 1,543

Bikes: 12 Y.O. Litespeed MTB, IRO Jamie Roy fixie, Custom Habanero Ti 'Cross, No name SS MTB, Old school lugged steel track bike (soon)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
How many big name bikes are actually still built in the US? Like are all Cannondales still manufactured here? Seems like most have moved offshore.
darkmother is offline  
Old 02-11-05, 09:01 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: GA
Posts: 537

Bikes: '95 Klein Attitude and Quantum, '92 Trek 830

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by darkmother
How many big name bikes are actually still built in the US? Like are all Cannondales still manufactured here? Seems like most have moved offshore.
Yes, Cannondales are still made in the USofA. Kleins and Treks (the higher end ones) are made in the US, and a lot of the "smaller" brands are (Seven, for instance).
KleinRider is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.