What type of Aluminum are Cannondale Optimo frames?
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What type of Aluminum are Cannondale Optimo frames?
I'm asking because I'm trying to decide between about 6 different bikes that I'm interested in, I can get 1 of them when I get my tax refund, the different frames materials range between:
Reynolds 631
Columbus Foco
7005 Aluminum
Cannondale CAAD7 Optimo
Easton Ultralite.
The models are: Bianchi Eros, Bianchi Axis, Specialized Allez Cr-mo, Cannondale Cyclocross, Cannondale R700 and the Felt Track (TK1) or Bianchi Pista Concept.
Sounds strange to be interested in bikes ranging from Road to Cross to Track but they all would suit me well riding 200 miles a week in NYC (I've only ridden fixed gear so far, so I'm still deciding what type of gearing I should have... I had a road bike for only 2 weeks but ended up selling it for a track bike).
Reynolds 631
Columbus Foco
7005 Aluminum
Cannondale CAAD7 Optimo
Easton Ultralite.
The models are: Bianchi Eros, Bianchi Axis, Specialized Allez Cr-mo, Cannondale Cyclocross, Cannondale R700 and the Felt Track (TK1) or Bianchi Pista Concept.
Sounds strange to be interested in bikes ranging from Road to Cross to Track but they all would suit me well riding 200 miles a week in NYC (I've only ridden fixed gear so far, so I'm still deciding what type of gearing I should have... I had a road bike for only 2 weeks but ended up selling it for a track bike).
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Originally Posted by ultra-g
I'm asking because I'm trying to decide between about 6 different bikes that I'm interested in, I can get 1 of them when I get my tax refund, the different frames materials range between:
Reynolds 631
Columbus Foco
7005 Aluminum
Cannondale CAAD7 Optimo
Easton Ultralite.
The models are: Bianchi Eros, Bianchi Axis, Specialized Allez Cr-mo, Cannondale Cyclocross, Cannondale R700 and the Felt Track (TK1) or Bianchi Pista Concept.
Sounds strange to be interested in bikes ranging from Road to Cross to Track but they all would suit me well riding 200 miles a week in NYC (I've only ridden fixed gear so far, so I'm still deciding what type of gearing I should have... I had a road bike for only 2 weeks but ended up selling it for a track bike).
Reynolds 631
Columbus Foco
7005 Aluminum
Cannondale CAAD7 Optimo
Easton Ultralite.
The models are: Bianchi Eros, Bianchi Axis, Specialized Allez Cr-mo, Cannondale Cyclocross, Cannondale R700 and the Felt Track (TK1) or Bianchi Pista Concept.
Sounds strange to be interested in bikes ranging from Road to Cross to Track but they all would suit me well riding 200 miles a week in NYC (I've only ridden fixed gear so far, so I'm still deciding what type of gearing I should have... I had a road bike for only 2 weeks but ended up selling it for a track bike).
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Originally Posted by sydney
You are comparing alot of apples, grapefruit and watermelons. Optimo is a 6xxxx type aluminum.Keep in mind,you ride a frame,not an alloy.FWIW, Easton ultralite is just another 7xxx.
I could get my frame treated with frame saver, but I don't have the space/time to do it on my own and don't trust to have it done at a bike shop (for all I know I could pay them $75 to let the bike sit there for 3 days without anything being done to it).
I understand too that I'm riding a bike and not frame material, and probably am over thinking it at this point.
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Originally Posted by ultra-g
Thanks again for the info. I know, Apples to Oranges, I have a Bianchi Pista right now, which is Bianchi Chromoly (not Reynolds) and it's a nice ride, but I'm concerned about riding it in the rain, which is why I'm considering another aluminum bike.
I could get my frame treated with frame saver, but I don't have the space/time to do it on my own and don't trust to have it done at a bike shop (for all I know I could pay them $75 to let the bike sit there for 3 days without anything being done to it).
I understand too that I'm riding a bike and not frame material, and probably am over thinking it at this point.
I could get my frame treated with frame saver, but I don't have the space/time to do it on my own and don't trust to have it done at a bike shop (for all I know I could pay them $75 to let the bike sit there for 3 days without anything being done to it).
I understand too that I'm riding a bike and not frame material, and probably am over thinking it at this point.
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Originally Posted by sydney
Rain and rust is hardly the issue people try and make it. A BB drain hole takes care of alot of it, as will a spray of wd40 down the seattube and into any vent holes.
Do you mean drilling a hole into the bottom bracket? I usually just take off the seat post and let the bike sit overnight upside down after I've ridden in rain.
Anyway, I know I'm too paranoid, a friend of mine has a Colnago fixed gear that's about 15 years old that he uses around town, he's never treated it with framesaver either.
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Take the screw out of the cable guide under the BB. The tension from the cable will hold the guide in place, just remember to reinstall the screw before you ride again. My Cannondale even has a screw in the right chain stay for drainage.
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Originally Posted by DieselDan
Take the screw out of the cable guide under the BB. The tension from the cable will hold the guide in place, just remember to reinstall the screw before you ride again. My Cannondale even has a screw in the right chain stay for drainage.
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I wouldn't discount steel as a good frame material because of corrosion issues. High quality cro mo steel generally doesn't rot out like the 1010 or 1020 stuff used in cars. It is far more resistant to corrosion, more like the steel used in tools. Surface rust is common, but deep pitting is unlikely. I have riden steel frames for years in the winter (complete with lots of salt) and have never had a corrosion related frame failure, or witnessed anything more than surface oxide on the interior of my frames. If you are worried, you can easily treat the inside of the tubes with rust inhibitor, oil or even WD-40 believe it or not. I remember a local frame builder took 3 sections of 4130 Cromo, sand blased them to remove the surface oxides, then treated one with rust inhibitor, one with WD-40 and the last one with nothing. He then put all three outside, mounted on a wooden stake stuck in the ground. The WD-40 coated tube was still shiney after several months of exposure.
Drain hole is a good idea too, and certainly won't hurt anything.
There are good frames made of all kinds of materials. Look closely at the high stress areas like dropouts, around the BB, and near the HT. Base your desision to buy on design, and bike fit, not just what the sticker on the seat tube says.
Drain hole is a good idea too, and certainly won't hurt anything.
There are good frames made of all kinds of materials. Look closely at the high stress areas like dropouts, around the BB, and near the HT. Base your desision to buy on design, and bike fit, not just what the sticker on the seat tube says.
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Originally Posted by darkmother
I wouldn't discount steel as a good frame material because of corrosion issues. High quality cro mo steel generally doesn't rot out like the 1010 or 1020 stuff used in cars. It is far more resistant to corrosion, more like the steel used in tools. Surface rust is common, but deep pitting is unlikely. I have riden steel frames for years in the winter (complete with lots of salt) and have never had a corrosion related frame failure, or witnessed anything more than surface oxide on the interior of my frames. If you are worried, you can easily treat the inside of the tubes with rust inhibitor, oil or even WD-40 believe it or not. I remember a local frame builder took 3 sections of 4130 Cromo, sand blased them to remove the surface oxides, then treated one with rust inhibitor, one with WD-40 and the last one with nothing. He then put all three outside, mounted on a wooden stake stuck in the ground. The WD-40 coated tube was still shiney after several months of exposure.
Drain hole is a good idea too, and certainly won't hurt anything.
There are good frames made of all kinds of materials. Look closely at the high stress areas like dropouts, around the BB, and near the HT. Base your desision to buy on design, and bike fit, not just what the sticker on the seat tube says.
Drain hole is a good idea too, and certainly won't hurt anything.
There are good frames made of all kinds of materials. Look closely at the high stress areas like dropouts, around the BB, and near the HT. Base your desision to buy on design, and bike fit, not just what the sticker on the seat tube says.
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Remember, a drain hole doesn't just protect the frame, it keeps your bottom bracket from swimming around in its own swill after your bike takes a bath.
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Originally Posted by Bike_13
Foco is 7xxx series as well.
Hate to say it, but American manufacturers still seem to do the best job with oversize Al.
Hate to say it, but American manufacturers still seem to do the best job with oversize Al.
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Originally Posted by sydney
Last time I checked, Foco was steel , and new school stuff at that.
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Thanks!
I've decided to go with a Steel frame Lemond (True Temper OX Platinum steel, which I guess is on par with Reynolds 853).
I'm going nuts just thinking about it.
I've decided to go with a Steel frame Lemond (True Temper OX Platinum steel, which I guess is on par with Reynolds 853).
I'm going nuts just thinking about it.
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How many big name bikes are actually still built in the US? Like are all Cannondales still manufactured here? Seems like most have moved offshore.
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Originally Posted by darkmother
How many big name bikes are actually still built in the US? Like are all Cannondales still manufactured here? Seems like most have moved offshore.