Vintage mixte overhaul- the expensive way!
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
Bikes: 2012 Trek Session 88 custom build, late 80s era Trek 520, late 70s-early 80s Peugeot Mixte, OBEY X FUJI track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Vintage mixte overhaul- the expensive way!
Hello everyone. My better half has a vintage Peugeot mixte that has been sitting in our garage for assorted reasons. I have been meaning to teach myself some bike knowledge, and what better way than to dive headfirst into a project way above my skill level? My bike repair experience pretty much consists of riding and cleaning a downhill bike. Any maintenance issues I had I thought were to complicated to learn and immediately took my bike to a shop (duh, whoops). The things she wants done to the bike are pretty serious, and I'm crazy for doing them from what I can gather from other posts of people wanting similar things.
The bike:
What she wants done:
drop bars changed to Velo tourist handlebars
friction shifting replaced with indexed shifting
cantilever brakes replaces with side-pull breaks
She plans on adding some accessories to frame eventually too:
fenders
kickstand
front basket
rear basket
She does not care about maintaining the vintage feel of the bicycle. The important elements of the bike to her are the mixte frame and details like:
I have these parts that I would like to either use in the rebuild:
Can I use any of these parts on this bike? What parts will I need to buy instead to make this project happen?
So to shortcut everyone's 1st response: although I am trying to keep this project as cheap as possible, I am want to do this project to further (or create) some bike shop skills and end up with a nice bike to surprise my lady with.
And finally, here are some pictures of the bike and its components:
PICTURES PART 1
Can what I want be done? What parts do I still need to buy to make this happen?
The bike:
What she wants done:
drop bars changed to Velo tourist handlebars
friction shifting replaced with indexed shifting
cantilever brakes replaces with side-pull breaks
She plans on adding some accessories to frame eventually too:
fenders
kickstand
front basket
rear basket
She does not care about maintaining the vintage feel of the bicycle. The important elements of the bike to her are the mixte frame and details like:
I have these parts that I would like to either use in the rebuild:
Can I use any of these parts on this bike? What parts will I need to buy instead to make this project happen?
So to shortcut everyone's 1st response: although I am trying to keep this project as cheap as possible, I am want to do this project to further (or create) some bike shop skills and end up with a nice bike to surprise my lady with.
And finally, here are some pictures of the bike and its components:
PICTURES PART 1
Can what I want be done? What parts do I still need to buy to make this happen?
Last edited by cookcrankcook; 05-23-15 at 11:35 AM. Reason: add more info
#2
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,786
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3588 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
For starters, these brakes won't work unless you braze on the required bosses:
You'd be better off to buy some Tektro dual-pivot calipers instead.
You'd be better off to buy some Tektro dual-pivot calipers instead.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
Bikes: 2012 Trek Session 88 custom build, late 80s era Trek 520, late 70s-early 80s Peugeot Mixte, OBEY X FUJI track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Pictures of the bike part 2
#4
Senior Member
What wrong with keeping the bike as is ? I see nothing in your photos saying anything need replacing . Just clean and lube the bike and have her ride it . The parts you do show will not work with this bike but maybe the freewheel .
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
Bikes: 2012 Trek Session 88 custom build, late 80s era Trek 520, late 70s-early 80s Peugeot Mixte, OBEY X FUJI track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
Bikes: 2012 Trek Session 88 custom build, late 80s era Trek 520, late 70s-early 80s Peugeot Mixte, OBEY X FUJI track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
1. Aesthetics of the drop bars. She does not like the way they look.
2. Location of the shifters. It is uncomfortable for her to use stem mounted shifters.
3. She wants indexed shifting
4. The brakes are ok, but I already know how to maintain and adjust v-brakes, and as far as I know if I am already replacing the shifters, handlebars, and brake levers, so won't I have to replace them anyway?
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,702
Bikes: old clunker
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 684 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 105 Times
in
83 Posts
Friendly advice: pick a lane.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 3,893
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1062 Post(s)
Liked 665 Times
in
421 Posts
2. Location of the shifters. It is uncomfortable for her to use stem mounted shifters.
3. She wants indexed shifting
4. The brakes are ok, but I already know how to maintain and adjust v-brakes, and as far as I know if I am already replacing the shifters, handlebars, and brake levers, so won't I have to replace them anyway?
The experts could chime in here, but a potential issue is that older Peugeot bikes used "French" thread standards that are unlike anything else on the planet, so you might have some issues if you ever want to replace things like the crank or the pedals.
Depending on her riding preferences, terrain, etc., she may be happy with the smaller front cog and no front derailer, which would simplify your upgrade job somewhat.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,800
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 887 Post(s)
Liked 335 Times
in
225 Posts
Jeez, I ought to stay out of this, but since I have time on my hands...
1. The brakes are fine. Clean them up and put modern Kool- Stop or other decent pads on them.
2. I like VO bars. Make sure you have brake levers that fit them.
3. VO sells some really cheap friction shifters that fit all bars. Let her try those before going whole hog on something else. It may have been the placement of the original levers that put her off friction in the first place.
And that's all I've got to say about that.
1. The brakes are fine. Clean them up and put modern Kool- Stop or other decent pads on them.
2. I like VO bars. Make sure you have brake levers that fit them.
3. VO sells some really cheap friction shifters that fit all bars. Let her try those before going whole hog on something else. It may have been the placement of the original levers that put her off friction in the first place.
And that's all I've got to say about that.
#10
tcarl
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 561
Bikes: Roark, Waterford 1100, 1987 Schwinn Paramount, Nishiki Professional, Bottecchia, 2 Scattantes, 3 Cannondale touring bikes, mtn. bike, cyclocross, hybrid, 1940's era Schwinn
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times
in
7 Posts
From your photos it looks to me like it may have a 5 speed freewheel. The replacement you have is a 7 speed. You'll need to determine if the rear axle is long enough to go from 5 to 7 (I'm guessing it isn't - 120mm vs. 126mm). I don't think there is such a thing as 5 speed indexed shifters - it wasn't invented until everything had already switched over to 6 speed. But (if I'm right on this, I'm going on very long ago memories) maybe 6 speed indexed is the same spacing as 5 speed and you could just block out the lowest gear. Don't trust me on that - there are much more knowledgeable people here who will correct me. I don't know if 6 speed indexing is still available - look for used parts, ebay, a bike co-op?
#11
Banned
What she wants done: = yours is not to reason Why, yours is to Do ..
Dweenk may be a walk in at VO , others have to pay shipping .
(some of their imports are wholesaled thru other distributors and available locally for no more, than VO's Retail Prices )
BUT (kiss) guidonnet levers work well https://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/br-0024.html
convenient like the chicken wing extension levers that Dont Work Well at all (its the front lever /those wings that goes away. )
you Keep the bars , just replace the levers and cable & Housing and get Kool Stop Continental Brake Shoes
maybe put bar end plug mirror/s in the bar end/s ..
She wants Indexed shifting ? I highly Recommend Buying a Sturmey Archer 3 https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/aw
or 5 Speed IGH https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/rx-rf5 In a A New Rear Wheel.
a 3 and 5 speed bar end klick shifter/ or thumb lever is a S-A Option
since this is a Shopping practical Bike, the derailleur upgrade will be expensive and more complicated to operate. .& easily damaged..
1 chain ring in front will allow a chainguard be added ..
Dweenk may be a walk in at VO , others have to pay shipping .
(some of their imports are wholesaled thru other distributors and available locally for no more, than VO's Retail Prices )
BUT (kiss) guidonnet levers work well https://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/br-0024.html
convenient like the chicken wing extension levers that Dont Work Well at all (its the front lever /those wings that goes away. )
you Keep the bars , just replace the levers and cable & Housing and get Kool Stop Continental Brake Shoes
maybe put bar end plug mirror/s in the bar end/s ..
She wants Indexed shifting ? I highly Recommend Buying a Sturmey Archer 3 https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/aw
or 5 Speed IGH https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/rx-rf5 In a A New Rear Wheel.
a 3 and 5 speed bar end klick shifter/ or thumb lever is a S-A Option
since this is a Shopping practical Bike, the derailleur upgrade will be expensive and more complicated to operate. .& easily damaged..
1 chain ring in front will allow a chainguard be added ..
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-23-15 at 02:14 PM.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The First State.
Posts: 1,168
Bikes: Schwinn Continental, Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn High Plains, Schwinn World Sport, Trek 420, Trek 930,Trek 660, Novara X-R, Giant Iguana. Fuji Sagres mixte.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Liked 22 Times
in
10 Posts
Looks like you have already purchased 7-speed trigger shifters., however the brake levers on those units are V-brake levers and are not compatible with centerpull or sidepull caliper brakes. They would not be safe to use. The mixte does not have the necessary braze-on posts for V-brakes, anyway. You would be better off getting 7-speed thumb shifters and using separate brake levers. Make sure the levers are compatible with centerpull or sidepull caliper brakes.
If you want 7-speed indexed shifting, you will need a new rear wheel with 126mm spacing between the locknuts. Your 5-speed setup is probably 120mm. That also means you will have to cold set the rear of the bike so the dropouts are spaced at 126mm. You will also need a SIS 7-speed index compatible rear derailleur, one that has a claw mount. Your current derailleur has a claw mount, your bike does not have an integral derailleur hanger.
If you want 7-speed indexed shifting, you will need a new rear wheel with 126mm spacing between the locknuts. Your 5-speed setup is probably 120mm. That also means you will have to cold set the rear of the bike so the dropouts are spaced at 126mm. You will also need a SIS 7-speed index compatible rear derailleur, one that has a claw mount. Your current derailleur has a claw mount, your bike does not have an integral derailleur hanger.
Last edited by Paramount1973; 05-23-15 at 09:17 PM.
#13
Senior Member
aside from the issue of whether those parts will work, just look at delivering on her request as "love insurance". As long as nothing compromises safety of course. She will love the bike and that is worth a lot.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
Bikes: 2012 Trek Session 88 custom build, late 80s era Trek 520, late 70s-early 80s Peugeot Mixte, OBEY X FUJI track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
And you should read more carefully. I said that those were the extra parts that I have to work with, not that I was going to use them all on the bike. If I cannot use those parts on the bike, then I would like to use parts with a similar price point so I can sell the brakes I do have and get proper brakes with the money.
#15
Collector of Useless Info
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,404
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I would use your existing parts. But you'll need some more stuff to do so:
Rear gearing- You'll need a new longer axle and another 5 mm spacer to get more room at the back for the extra gears. You'll need a derailleur hanger claw- the old simplex one won't fit the Acera derailleur. You'll need non-compressible gear housing so the indexing works reliably. If you're anal about a 3 mm offset to the left on the rear wheel, you'll need to "dish" the wheel back to center. You'll need to either spread the rear triangle to fit the extra axle width in, or "cold set" it (spread it permanently by bending it).
Brakes- I'd just buy new pads for the existing centerpulls. They'll work fine. Sell the Tektro Canti units; there's no way to make them fit, and new long-reach sidepulls wouldn't be much of an improvement over the centerpulls. If the levers are made for V-brakes, you can get "travel agents" to convert the pull ratio to the road/canti/centerpull ratio.
Front gearing- You'll likely need a new front derailleur, but I'd try the old one first- after all, there are only two positions, and you can adjust them somewhat with the limit screws and judicious use of cable slack.
As far as "French bike" compatibility- that's mostly the bottom bracket and the headset, which you're not going to touch. You may need a new stem if the new handlebar diameter is different at the clamp point- measure it with a caliper, both the stem diameter where it goes into the steering tube and the handlebar diameter where it clamps in the stem.
Rear gearing- You'll need a new longer axle and another 5 mm spacer to get more room at the back for the extra gears. You'll need a derailleur hanger claw- the old simplex one won't fit the Acera derailleur. You'll need non-compressible gear housing so the indexing works reliably. If you're anal about a 3 mm offset to the left on the rear wheel, you'll need to "dish" the wheel back to center. You'll need to either spread the rear triangle to fit the extra axle width in, or "cold set" it (spread it permanently by bending it).
Brakes- I'd just buy new pads for the existing centerpulls. They'll work fine. Sell the Tektro Canti units; there's no way to make them fit, and new long-reach sidepulls wouldn't be much of an improvement over the centerpulls. If the levers are made for V-brakes, you can get "travel agents" to convert the pull ratio to the road/canti/centerpull ratio.
Front gearing- You'll likely need a new front derailleur, but I'd try the old one first- after all, there are only two positions, and you can adjust them somewhat with the limit screws and judicious use of cable slack.
As far as "French bike" compatibility- that's mostly the bottom bracket and the headset, which you're not going to touch. You may need a new stem if the new handlebar diameter is different at the clamp point- measure it with a caliper, both the stem diameter where it goes into the steering tube and the handlebar diameter where it clamps in the stem.
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
Bikes: 2012 Trek Session 88 custom build, late 80s era Trek 520, late 70s-early 80s Peugeot Mixte, OBEY X FUJI track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
\ You'll need a new longer axle and another 5 mm spacer to get more room at the back for the extra gears. You'll need a derailleur hanger claw- the old simplex one won't fit the Acera derailleur. You'll need non-compressible gear housing so the indexing works reliably. If you're anal about a 3 mm offset to the left on the rear wheel, you'll need to "dish" the wheel back to center. You'll need to either spread the rear triangle to fit the extra axle width in, or "cold set" it (spread it permanently by bending it).
You've convinced me to just try new pads. If I get the velo handlebars someone recommended that I get these Guidonnet Brake Levers handle , do I need special brake levers like these over more standard levers?
As for the front gearing, I assume you saw I have that Acera front deraileur as well as the rear? is there a reason that you recommended to keep the old over using the new one (other than logically, you have a point about there only being two positions). Also, if I did leave it, would it be a problem connecting it to shifters on the handlebars?
Thanks for your reply! your response was helpful and easy for me to understand.
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
Bikes: 2012 Trek Session 88 custom build, late 80s era Trek 520, late 70s-early 80s Peugeot Mixte, OBEY X FUJI track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I currently have Acera front and rear deraileurs that I took posted pictures of in the beginning of my post. Is there a reason I cannot use them? Also, this is probably a stupid question, but is SIS a line of deraileurs Shimano makes that you are specifically recommending for my project or is SIS a type of deraileur?
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
Bikes: 2012 Trek Session 88 custom build, late 80s era Trek 520, late 70s-early 80s Peugeot Mixte, OBEY X FUJI track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You could buy caliper brakes and levers that are compatible with one another. That's what I've done, using Tektro dual pivots as noted above, and Shimano levers that look like they were intended for a hybrid or light duty mountain bike. Switching to v-brakes means brazing the bosses on -- possibly the tripping point where a new Mixte with everything you want already on it becomes preferable.
#20
Senior Member
What you have on the bike now is what is call center pull brakes which was common when your bike was new . The dual pivots you looking at will work with your bike . The dual pivots are make from combine technology of your center pulls and side pull brakes . It why you see the cable to the side of calipers .
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,783
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
9 Posts
Not that you need another opinion, but since I have an old Peugeot myself and I'm somewhat familiar with the task you're facing...
For simplicity's sake, let's divide the job into smaller tasks, namely brakes and drivetrain.
BRAKES
Your original brakes are Weinmann centerpull calipers. If you want, you can replace them with sidepull calipers like the Tektro dual-pivots mentioned above, but your original centerpulls are serviceable if you fit them with new brake pads. If you go with new brakes, you'll need to measure the required reach, both front and rear, so you can choose a set of brakes that's sized right for your bike & wheels.
The levers you choose are dependent on what handlebar you go with. Just make sure your brake levers are designed for caliper or cantilever brakes and not linear pull "v brakes". The guidonnet levers mentioned above should work fine, but you may want to check how they follow the curve of your handlebar. (Or pick a handlebar that fits the bend of the levers. Your choice.)
DRIVETRAIN
OK, this is where it gets a little complicated since there are more variables to contend with.
First of all, how far apart are inside faces of the frame's dropouts, where the rear wheel inserts? If it's 126 mm, you have some options. That's the common spacing for 6- and (some) 7-speed freewheels, which you can easily find index-compatible parts for. If the frame's spaced at 120 mm, this could get significantly more complicated and/or expensive since you'll need to replace or re-space/dish your rear wheel to fit more than 5 speeds, which you'd need to do for most index-compatible components.
If your frame is spaced at 126 mm, you may be able to fit a 7-speed freewheel on your existing wheel. It'll almost certainly fit, but you'll want to test-fit it to confirm that the freewheel and chain don't rub on the frame. If you can't get a 7-speed freewheel in there, it's a safe bet you can do a 6-speed freewheel like this Sunrace M2A.
Once you've got your freewheel figured out and know how many speeds you're going to be running, you can look for shifters. There are plenty of indexed shifters available for 6-speed setups or 7 speed setups. Shimano SL-TX30 shifters are inexpensive and come in both flavors:
Shimano SL-TX30, 6 speed
Shimano SL-TX30, 7 speed
(Note that you may want to stick with friction shifting for the front derailleur. It'll increase your shifter and derailleur options without being any more difficult for the rider since friction shifting a double is binary, just like indexed shifting: throw the lever one way for low, the other way for high.)
For your rear derailleur, you can use the Acera derailleur you have on hand, or pretty much any Shimano index-compatible 6/7/8 speed derailleur. The only catch is that you'll need a claw to mount it since your frame doesn't have a built-in derailleur hanger. The Peugeot's stock derailleur claw might not have a stop tab for a Shimano derailleur's b-screw, so to be on the safe side, I'd suggest spending a buck or two to pick up a claw that's definitely compatible, like this Sunrace claw. Or you can buy a derailleur that comes with a claw mount.
For your front derailleur, if you stick with friction shifting, pretty much any front derailleur will work, including the Peugeot's stock Simplex derailleur. The Shimano derailleur you have on hand may not be ideal, being a triple and designed for a maximum 48 tooth chainring.
SIS = Shimano Index System. It's a blanket label Shimano uses on their index-compatible derailleurs, shifters, and related components.
For simplicity's sake, let's divide the job into smaller tasks, namely brakes and drivetrain.
BRAKES
Your original brakes are Weinmann centerpull calipers. If you want, you can replace them with sidepull calipers like the Tektro dual-pivots mentioned above, but your original centerpulls are serviceable if you fit them with new brake pads. If you go with new brakes, you'll need to measure the required reach, both front and rear, so you can choose a set of brakes that's sized right for your bike & wheels.
The levers you choose are dependent on what handlebar you go with. Just make sure your brake levers are designed for caliper or cantilever brakes and not linear pull "v brakes". The guidonnet levers mentioned above should work fine, but you may want to check how they follow the curve of your handlebar. (Or pick a handlebar that fits the bend of the levers. Your choice.)
DRIVETRAIN
OK, this is where it gets a little complicated since there are more variables to contend with.
First of all, how far apart are inside faces of the frame's dropouts, where the rear wheel inserts? If it's 126 mm, you have some options. That's the common spacing for 6- and (some) 7-speed freewheels, which you can easily find index-compatible parts for. If the frame's spaced at 120 mm, this could get significantly more complicated and/or expensive since you'll need to replace or re-space/dish your rear wheel to fit more than 5 speeds, which you'd need to do for most index-compatible components.
If your frame is spaced at 126 mm, you may be able to fit a 7-speed freewheel on your existing wheel. It'll almost certainly fit, but you'll want to test-fit it to confirm that the freewheel and chain don't rub on the frame. If you can't get a 7-speed freewheel in there, it's a safe bet you can do a 6-speed freewheel like this Sunrace M2A.
Once you've got your freewheel figured out and know how many speeds you're going to be running, you can look for shifters. There are plenty of indexed shifters available for 6-speed setups or 7 speed setups. Shimano SL-TX30 shifters are inexpensive and come in both flavors:
Shimano SL-TX30, 6 speed
Shimano SL-TX30, 7 speed
(Note that you may want to stick with friction shifting for the front derailleur. It'll increase your shifter and derailleur options without being any more difficult for the rider since friction shifting a double is binary, just like indexed shifting: throw the lever one way for low, the other way for high.)
For your rear derailleur, you can use the Acera derailleur you have on hand, or pretty much any Shimano index-compatible 6/7/8 speed derailleur. The only catch is that you'll need a claw to mount it since your frame doesn't have a built-in derailleur hanger. The Peugeot's stock derailleur claw might not have a stop tab for a Shimano derailleur's b-screw, so to be on the safe side, I'd suggest spending a buck or two to pick up a claw that's definitely compatible, like this Sunrace claw. Or you can buy a derailleur that comes with a claw mount.
For your front derailleur, if you stick with friction shifting, pretty much any front derailleur will work, including the Peugeot's stock Simplex derailleur. The Shimano derailleur you have on hand may not be ideal, being a triple and designed for a maximum 48 tooth chainring.
SIS = Shimano Index System. It's a blanket label Shimano uses on their index-compatible derailleurs, shifters, and related components.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The First State.
Posts: 1,168
Bikes: Schwinn Continental, Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn High Plains, Schwinn World Sport, Trek 420, Trek 930,Trek 660, Novara X-R, Giant Iguana. Fuji Sagres mixte.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Liked 22 Times
in
10 Posts
I currently have Acera front and rear deraileurs that I took posted pictures of in the beginning of my post. Is there a reason I cannot use them? Also, this is probably a stupid question, but is SIS a line of deraileurs Shimano makes that you are specifically recommending for my project or is SIS a type of deraileur?
Various Manufacturers Rear Derailleur Adaptor Claw - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
Actually, the claw that SkyDog75 linked to in his post should be fine and is less expensive than the Harris Cycle offering.
Last edited by Paramount1973; 05-24-15 at 05:46 PM.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 3,893
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1062 Post(s)
Liked 665 Times
in
421 Posts
@cookcrankcook, I can't add much to what the others have said. Thinking more about the project, I would probably take a more minimalist approach, maybe tackle it gradually:
1. Like @SkyDog75 suggests, the existing brakes are probably workable, with new pads. So far as I know, there was only one standard of brake levers until V-brakes came along.
2. Following what @noglider posted in the thread on the Fuji bike in the Commuting forum, I'd agree that switching to indexed shifting involves a lot of kit, and it may be that solving the problems of the handlebars and lever placement is enough of an improvement, that friction shifting won't seem like such a bad thing.
1. Like @SkyDog75 suggests, the existing brakes are probably workable, with new pads. So far as I know, there was only one standard of brake levers until V-brakes came along.
2. Following what @noglider posted in the thread on the Fuji bike in the Commuting forum, I'd agree that switching to indexed shifting involves a lot of kit, and it may be that solving the problems of the handlebars and lever placement is enough of an improvement, that friction shifting won't seem like such a bad thing.
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 16
Bikes: 2012 Trek Session 88 custom build, late 80s era Trek 520, late 70s-early 80s Peugeot Mixte, OBEY X FUJI track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hey, thanks for taking all of the time to write out your response and add the links. I really think I understand this much better.
BRAKES
So whether I replace my current centerpull brakes with sidepull brakes or just get new brake pads I can use caliper/cantilever brake levers.
DRIVETRAIN
For the drivetrain, I will probably have to have the frame spread to 126mm, I already know a bike shop that will do this.
I think you've convinced me to stick with the simplex front deraileur if possible. If I do this, can I just run the cable from the original simplex deraileur to any new shifters I get for the new handlebars without issue, or do I need to find simplex shifters? Otherwise I would probably just buy matching shimano shifters like the ones you linked.
In summary,
IF I get the bike frame spread to 126mm, then I can use the 7 speed freewheel I have pictured on my rear wheel with the 7 speed acera rear deraileur I have pictured. I can keep the current simplex front deraileur and run both of these to 1 indexed and 1 new friction shifter on the new handlebars. Then either I can service the current brakes and get better brake pads, or replace them with the tektro dual pivots. In either case I can run them to new caliper brake levers.
Is that right? Am I learning?
BRAKES
So whether I replace my current centerpull brakes with sidepull brakes or just get new brake pads I can use caliper/cantilever brake levers.
DRIVETRAIN
For the drivetrain, I will probably have to have the frame spread to 126mm, I already know a bike shop that will do this.
In summary,
IF I get the bike frame spread to 126mm, then I can use the 7 speed freewheel I have pictured on my rear wheel with the 7 speed acera rear deraileur I have pictured. I can keep the current simplex front deraileur and run both of these to 1 indexed and 1 new friction shifter on the new handlebars. Then either I can service the current brakes and get better brake pads, or replace them with the tektro dual pivots. In either case I can run them to new caliper brake levers.
Is that right? Am I learning?
#25
Banned
Chicago, a 3 speed IGH should be fine, they can be bought with the same 120 width as on old 5 speed freewheel bikes ..
I like my middle gear about 57~8" get Drum brake hubs and the Maintenance needs Go way down ..
I like my middle gear about 57~8" get Drum brake hubs and the Maintenance needs Go way down ..