brianinc-ville

I picked up a wheel with a Sturmey-Archer X-RF5(w) rear hub from eBay. It looks great; all the locknuts and washers are in the right places, according to the instructions. However, something seems weird with the chainline. The info I've been able to find on the web says that with a 3/32 cog dished out, it ought to be either 45.6mm, 47.7mm, or 53.2mm. When I measure it, though, it looks more like 39mm. Way too far to the left. I'm having a heck of a time getting the chainline right.

My first thought was that maybe the hub wasn't centered in the dropouts; I think I've got it right, but honestly I'm finding it difficult to measure accurately. It looks right, and as near as I can measure, the distance between the hub flanges and the dropouts is equal on each side. So, I don't think that's it. Any idea what's going on, here?

Chesterton

That hub was made in both 130mm and 119mm OLD versions. Are you sure you have the right size hub for your bike frame?

Here are the specs from Sturmey-Archer - https://web.archive.org/web/20140704...1/specs/1.html

What is your front chainline measurement, for comparison? Sheldon Brown said (Chainline and Overlocknut Distance on Bicycles with Internal-Gear Hubs) that IGH setups would typically have a chainline of 40.5-42 mm.

brianinc-ville

This is definitely the 119mm OLD version. I'm using it on a 126mm-spaced frame, with the 4mm keyed anti-turn washers on the inside. Not sure what that would have to do with the chainline, though -- the measurement is from the midline of the hub to the sprocket, not the locknuts, right? The Sturmey-Archer specs you linked (thanks!) say that it should be 47.7mm with the cog dished out. It definitely isn't. And as far as I can tell, there's no way to put spacers behind the cog, like you could with the old Sturmey hubs. Am I wrong about that?

The current front chainline is 45mm, with a 111-mm BB spindle. So, even if I put in a 103mm BB (the shortest that's easily available), that would still only put it at 41mm, which isn't close enough -- I'm trying to line it up perfectly for a Hebie Chainglider. I'd like to avoid buying a series of new cranksets for trial and error, if I can. Sure would be nice if crank manufacturers would tell you the horizontal offset distance between the inside edge of the spindle hole and the chainring -- that'd be really useful info to have.

Chesterton

I mentioned the different OLD versions because the specs list different chainline options for the two. But it seems like you should still be able to reach 45mm with the 119mm OLD.

There is an optional spacer behind the sprocket for the X-RD5 (though mine doesn't have one), but it doesn't appear on the part list for the later X-RD5(W) model (same as yours except with a drum brake). Here's the parts list, maybe take a look and see if anything is missing: https://web.archive.org/web/20140806.../XRD5-Tech.pdf

fietsbob

chain line is measured from the centerline thru the bike.

Perhaps the crank cannot stay as Is.
Adjust the front end of the chainline to match the hub .. dished cogs (16 to 22t) can be flipped over to change the hub a little.

GamblerGORD53

You must be measuring wrong. The flanges may not be even. Put a ruler stick against the front ring and see whats up.
Looks like you have to use the 17T DEEP dish cog then. This gives it another 3/32", 3mm?.
You can still get low enough gears with 42 or 44T up front. I have an 2009-2014 XL-RD5w 130 and just love it. Mine is about 53 mm C + dished out spaced in 134mm because I also have a Rohloff. I have a sq taper PHIL BB which is adjustable 3mm in/out.

I think it is far better if the middle gear is 69 or 71 GI for flat ground, same as SS. Contrary to popular opinion, this can be a FAST hub. Especially after I oiled the inside. With no drum brake you can't go wrong.
One thing you need to watch is whether the indicator chain starts sticking when going back inside. Mine never seemed to be right. I ended up sanding the edges of the nubs on the key inside. It was catching inside the driver part. Now I routinely down shift from 4th to second before going to 3rd. Up shifts OK. YMMV