youthcom

I'm trying to follow the procedure from the youtube video & the pdf for these brakes, but I cannot push the oil through the outlet at the caliper. I have loosened it & even if a little the oil just works it way out through the caliper outlet fitting's threads rather then pushing oil out at the lever. Could it be clogged or plugged up at the caliper? Am I missing a step? I'm using the Tektro bleed kit & this is the first time I've tried doing any maintenance on the year old brakes.

FBinNY 

I don't understand your post at all.

Generally bleeding involves letting air out at the top of the system, which is why you bleed in the first place, and introducing oil if necessary to top off the system's reserve. You bleed at the top because air tends to rise.

In some instances you bleed from the bottom, but this involves adding oil and letting it flow out the lower end fairly rapidly so as to push air along against gravity. I would only suggest bottom bleeding if your fairly sure the air is trapped there and the bubble can't or won't rise to the other end of the system.

You didn't link the specific tutorial, so I don't know exactly what you are or should be doing, but keep in mind that bleeding is about air which rises in oil, unless pushed down by rapid flow.

youthcom

This video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhKKe6av-0U

I operated the brakes while I had the bike upside down to work on it causing them to get spongy & bottom out. My first bike with hydraulic brakes so I didn't know this was a no no. I thought turning that fitting on the caliper that I have the oil filled syringe connected to should have opened a valve to allow me to push oil & air out the top but it's just forcing oil to leak out around the threads there.

FBinNY 

You're doing it backward. You add oil to the bottom pushing old oil and air up past the lever piston into the lever reservoir's bleed port. Not that the lever has to be fully open because the inlet/outlet port to the reserve in the lever is closed immediately as you squeeze the lever.

It may also help to warm the line with a hair drier to thin the oil and flick it with your finger nail to help air bubbles to rise to the top. If you've ever seen a nurse tap air out of an IV you'll know what I mean. Make the effort to get ALL the air up to the top before starting because otherwise you'll need to purge the entire length of the line to push out any bubble trapped low in the system.

The basics of bleeding are always the same, oil flows IN at the brake, and OUT with air at the top, while the lever is fully open making it possible.

youthcom

I'm not trying to bleed the brake with the bike upside down. I am trying to push the oil into the brake so the air & oil "bleeds" out at the lever at the top. What is happening is that I am unable to push anything thru as if the port at the brake is closed or blocked. I was under the impression that just turning the fitting would open it up so I am wondering if I'm doing something wrong. I've tried googling & haven't found anything like I'm experiencing.

FBinNY 

Either the line is blocked, or the lever is not all the way back, or you're opening the oil entry valve too much or too little. Not being there, I can't see exactly what's happening, so you have to use your own eyes and find the problem.

You might try closing the bleed port and applying some pressure on the lever to see if you can force oil down through the entry port on the caliper and back into the syringe. If not, and the brake goes on instead, then the entry port is still closed.

It's simple plumbing, so stop and think about it before you get overly frustrated. When I get into these kinds of fixes, I put the job aside and do something else and come back to them with a clear head and fresh attitude.

BTW- put your area of residence into your profile. Then maybe I or another member can refer you to a bike co-op or someone else who can guide you over the hurdle on this job. It's probable something simple that you're just not getting.

youthcom

2nd try today and I just needed to open the valve more. I did remove it entirely & noticed wear around the cone that seals it so perhaps it needed to be unscrewed more then normal.