Brake cable attachment help
#1
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Brake cable attachment help
I just put hydraulic disc brakes on my giant 29er, that came with mechanical disc brakes. The attachment guides are welded on the frame and are only wide enough for a cable with no housing. Is there some type of attachment wide enough to house the new hydraulic cables? I am changing the groupset next and may run into the issue again.
Thanks
Thanks
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You need this: Amazon.com : BRAKE DISC PART ACTION CABLE GUIDE CLIP : Bike Shift Cables And Housing : Sports & Outdoors
This is how it looks installed
This is how it looks installed
Last edited by techsensei; 04-07-16 at 09:56 PM.
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Of course there's always the common zip tie. Andy
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I would use lacing tape, used in the electronics industry to bundle wires; it is less bulky than zip ties and doesn't have any sharp edges. Amazon.com: Waxed Lacing Tape, 500 Yard Spool, Black: Electronics
Or you could strap the lines to the frame using self-fusing silicone tape; it is available in many colors including clear to match or contrast your paint scheme.
Those clips are neat but at ~$6 each a bit pricey.
Or you could strap the lines to the frame using self-fusing silicone tape; it is available in many colors including clear to match or contrast your paint scheme.
Those clips are neat but at ~$6 each a bit pricey.
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That is what I put on there for now but I really would prefer to have it more streamlined looking.
I would use lacing tape, used in the electronics industry to bundle wires; it is less bulky than zip ties and doesn't have any sharp edges. Amazon.com: Waxed Lacing Tape, 500 Yard Spool, Black: Electronics
Or you could strap the lines to the frame using self-fusing silicone tape; it is available in many colors including clear to match or contrast your paint scheme.
Those clips are neat but at ~$6 each a bit pricey.
Or you could strap the lines to the frame using self-fusing silicone tape; it is available in many colors including clear to match or contrast your paint scheme.
Those clips are neat but at ~$6 each a bit pricey.
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The problem with electrical tape is that the adhesive creeps and bleeds and makes a mess. The silicone tape has no adhesive and only sticks to itself so can be easily and cleanly removed. Ace hardware Duck Wrap Fix Self Fusing Silicone Rubber Tape (442055) - Electrical Tape - Ace Hardware and True Value Self-Sealing Silicone Repair Tape, Black, 1-In. x 10-Ft.: Model# HTP-1010 | True Value have it as well as Amazon and eBay sellers. Nice to use for finishing up bar tape wraps, too.
Your tenant might have Kapton tape, which is better than electrical tape as regards adhesive bleeding.
Your tenant might have Kapton tape, which is better than electrical tape as regards adhesive bleeding.
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I had a similar installation and put a loose zip tie around the hose then pinched a tiny loop of zip tie and slid it into the slot in the frame. The loop of tie in the frame had enough resistance to keep the tie from pulling out. Then tighten the zip tie snug. Been holding like that for a couple of years now.
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Drill out the guide so the hydraulic line will slide through?
It's a permanent change I know but it will do the job and look "right"...
It's a permanent change I know but it will do the job and look "right"...
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Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
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The problem with electrical tape is that the adhesive creeps and bleeds and makes a mess. The silicone tape has no adhesive and only sticks to itself so can be easily and cleanly removed. Ace hardware Duck Wrap Fix Self Fusing Silicone Rubber Tape (442055) - Electrical Tape - Ace Hardware and True Value Self-Sealing Silicone Repair Tape, Black, 1-In. x 10-Ft.: Model# HTP-1010 | True Value have it as well as Amazon and eBay sellers. Nice to use for finishing up bar tape wraps, too.
Your tenant might have Kapton tape, which is better than electrical tape as regards adhesive bleeding.
Your tenant might have Kapton tape, which is better than electrical tape as regards adhesive bleeding.
There are... ahem... other places to acquire silicon tape as well. However, those versions aren't really meant to be seen outside of the bedroom, if you catch my drift. (However, they are often cheaper than the less risque versions.)
Personally I'd drill out the cable stop because I'm not one to get rid of bikes. And it's MUCH easier to convert a drilled cable stop to a non-drilled cable stop, in fact the parts are probably only a few 10s of cents at your local store.
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The best solution is to get a set of stick-on guides. Search for Jagwire DCA056.