gsa103

It's for disc brakes only, which are typically designed for much higher temperatures. It tends to work best for sintered metal pads, which are similar to automotive brake pads, and tolerate very high temperatures. It would probably work with Resin pads, except the resin binder breaks-down at the required temperatures.

The idea is that extreme heating cooks off/carbonized any oil contaminates. After cooking, lightly sand to remove the carbon and you're left with a clean pad. Plenty of information in the mtb community, with varying levels of success.

AlexCyclistRoch

Now that I know that we're talking about disc pads....I've wrenched a lot of cars, and raced as well. Often, if you seriously overheat a disc brake pad, you can heat-glaze them (i.e., "cook the brakes'), which will result in less stopping power. Adding heat to brake material will do nothing. Grinding off the glazed surface might. Replacing them will fix the problem.