Brake Effectiveness
#1
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Brake Effectiveness
Hey all, I recently replaced the worn out break pads on my bike and got new ones. They don't seem to work very well. I had a huge BMW pull out in front of me and I had to slam on the brakes and they squeaked like crazy and still didn't slow me down all the way. Is there any way I can make these pads work any better or are there pads that will do a better job I can swap in? Thanks.
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They're cheapies similar to these. Appear to be hard rubber and couldn't have cost me more than $6. They were essentially new versions of the crappy ones that were on the bike when I bought it.
Edit: and I did adjust the brakes.
Edit: and I did adjust the brakes.
#5
Maybe you have the pads parallel to the rim or slightly "splayed".
Check that the pads are toed in so the leading edge hits the rim first.
Cable adjustment can affect power too because of leverage.
Check that the pads are toed in so the leading edge hits the rim first.
Cable adjustment can affect power too because of leverage.
#6
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probably should be in bike mechanics but...
1. make sure your pads are making good, straight contact when the brake is squeezed
2. make sure you can't move the brake shoes with your hands alone
3. make sure the cable is tight and it's seated well at the contact points. there should be near zero dead space (pulling the brake lever and not seeing the caliper move)
4. make sure the anchor bolt is tight enough
5. make sure the brake is centered by using the centering screw or moving it manually. pads should contact the wheel at around the same time
if that doesn't work, make sure there isn't any debris on the pads. file them down if yes. if you're squeaking a lot, play with the toe of the brake pads. don't make it too extreme.
got cable friction? rusty cables? chewed up housing?
you could also have problems with your wobbly wheels. get it trued at your local collective. your braking surface (hopefully not painted) could also suck. the brake could be busty too, but that's less likely.
nice pads are more about feel, imo. you'll still be able to flip yourself over your handlebars.
1. make sure your pads are making good, straight contact when the brake is squeezed
2. make sure you can't move the brake shoes with your hands alone
3. make sure the cable is tight and it's seated well at the contact points. there should be near zero dead space (pulling the brake lever and not seeing the caliper move)
4. make sure the anchor bolt is tight enough
5. make sure the brake is centered by using the centering screw or moving it manually. pads should contact the wheel at around the same time
if that doesn't work, make sure there isn't any debris on the pads. file them down if yes. if you're squeaking a lot, play with the toe of the brake pads. don't make it too extreme.
got cable friction? rusty cables? chewed up housing?
you could also have problems with your wobbly wheels. get it trued at your local collective. your braking surface (hopefully not painted) could also suck. the brake could be busty too, but that's less likely.
nice pads are more about feel, imo. you'll still be able to flip yourself over your handlebars.
#7
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That's good advice. Thanks guys. How can I toe in my pads? It doesn't seem like there's any adjustment I can make to get them angled like that, although I have read about the important of toeing them in slightly.
#8
Elitist
Moving to bike mechanics from SSFG. This is not a SSFG issue.
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Marx: "They were essentially new versions of the crappy ones that were on the bike when I bought it."
Brakes are sort of important, I would cut corners on quality elsewhere. Dump those crappy ones. Get some quality pads; Kool Stop Salmon are frequently recommended. Then install and adjust them properly and you should be in great shape.
Brakes are sort of important, I would cut corners on quality elsewhere. Dump those crappy ones. Get some quality pads; Kool Stop Salmon are frequently recommended. Then install and adjust them properly and you should be in great shape.
#13
Senior Member
I note that the pads you used are threadless cantilever pads.
The older style canti's which use those are extremely sensitive to adjustment.
tips:
get the straddle wire as low as possible
mount the pads as far out on the tips of their posts as possible (so that the brake arms are spread wide)
make sure the wheel is absolutely true and minimize the distance from rim to pads
also if you dont already, use the front brake to stop fast, (like the car situation)
The older style canti's which use those are extremely sensitive to adjustment.
tips:
get the straddle wire as low as possible
mount the pads as far out on the tips of their posts as possible (so that the brake arms are spread wide)
make sure the wheel is absolutely true and minimize the distance from rim to pads
also if you dont already, use the front brake to stop fast, (like the car situation)
#14
Retro Grouch
Cantis are notoriously difficult to set up and even then are not the best stoppers. Take a look at the Park web site for some pointers https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...-brake-service