zeolite

I'm replacing some parts on my bike and would like some advice on choosing new parts.

The Bike is a Giant Yukon, with shimano shifters and a deore deraillieur. I'm planning to replace the derailleur, cassette and chain. I don't mind paying a bit extra for parts that will last.

I was thinking about getting this derailleur.

What should I be looking for when choosing the cassette and chain? I'd like a chain that can be removed with a powerlink or similar. The area I live in is often wet (Scotland), so something suited for these conditions would be good.

Thanks in advance.

Matt Gaunt

I use the M750 rear mech. It's very good. I would suggest the IG70 chain (available from CRC) and the XT cassette (also from CRC and at a good price at the moment). The shifting is VERY smooth and you can use Power link if you really want to with and Shimano chain so I believe. Personally I don't.

Hope this helps.

If you're on 9s, which I suspect may be the case, go for the equivalent model in 9s form. I haven't used these components as I prefer the strength of 8s, but I presume the qulaity will be identical.

zeolite

Thanks Matt!

I don't really know the difference between 8speed and 9speed.
What does having 8sp or 9sp depend on? The rear wheel? Just the cassette? Or would I need new shifters?
What are the advantages of 8 vs 9 (you mentioned strength)?

zeolite

I've just checked the bike, and it's 8 speed. The shifter is a brake shifter combo with CI deck written on the shifter. The cassette has 8 rings, no idea which cassette it is though.

I've had the cassette off for cleaning and it seems to be in very good condition, although the chain is worn below .75, do I have to replace the cassette and chain together?

chis51hd

If the sprocket teeth aren't worn out so much, you can get away with just replacing the chain (it's cheaper, and a new, clean chain won't grind on your sprockets and chainrings).

Matt Gaunt

Look at the teeth on the cassette - if they look like shark fins, you're gonna need a new one with the new chain or it will skip. If not, then like ^^ said you should get away with it. CRC is the place for 8s stuff at the moment though.

The shifters should be fine. I personally use SRAM gripshift shifters because they suit my riding style more than triggers, but I'm sure the Shimano ones you have will work just as well. CI deck is just Shimano's on-board 'dashboard' extension tool that links into shifters and tells you what gear you're in and speed, etc.

San Rensho 

Chains a chain as long as it is the right size. Buy the cheapest you can find, measure it often for stretch and replace it while you still have a good margin left. This will maximize the life of the chainrings and cassette cogs.

cyccommute 

You can try replacing the chain first and see if it skips. If it does you will have to replace the cassette. The number of teeth per cog is stamped on each cog but if you want a lower gear or a higher gear, your derailer will handle just about any combination you would like. I personally prefer as low a gear as I can get and as high a gear I can get so I usually run an 11-34.

The derailer, by the way, doesn't care if you have 7,8,9,10, etc speed cassette. The chain is important so you need an 8 speed chain but the determining factor for number of gears is the shifters. An 8 spd vs. a 9spd rear derailer is mostly hype.

zeolite

thanks for all the help guys!

I've had a good look at the chainrings and the cassette and the middle chainring is very worn while the cassette is hardly worn, although they've been on the same amount of time. I think i'm going to play it safe though, and change everything at once.

Here's what I was thinking about getting :

Shimano LX cranks

Shimano XT Derailleur

LX Cassette or XT Cassette

Which chain would you recommend for these parts? I'd really like to be able to remove the chain, via powerlink or similar, and would prefer a silver colour.

Maybe this sram chain?

I'd like to hear your opinions on the above, and and changes you'd make.

Thanks.

Little Darwin

If you want a new crank, that is fine. However, the chainrings can be replaced without changing the crank.

There are some valid reasons for changing a crank and bottom bracket, but chainring wear is not really one of them.

zeolite

I take your point, but I don't think the chainrings can be separated from the cranks (or I don't know how to do it). It seems the rings are riveted to the cranks?

zeolite

Here's the crank / chainrings I've got :

cyccommute 

The crank is low end. If you want to change it, now would be as good a time as any. The external bearing cranks are super simple to work on but do realize that you will need a new bottom bracket wrench to install it. Otherwise, everything you are looking at is solid.

Yes, I'd go with the Sram chain. Easier to put on and take off.

juicemouse

You're right about your crank/chainrings. They're non-replaceable. It's a little hard to tell from those photos, but they don't look very worn to me. The middle one might be worn (not sure), but the big and small both look fine (aside from the rust).

The LX cranks you linked to are a little on the heavy side, and a little on the expensive side. You could do better. I'd go with one of the Sugino XD cranks.

Same with the cassette (too expensive). I'd go with SRAM for both cassette and chain. If you want an all-silver color chain, go with the PC-68. Its inner and outer links are nickel-plated, instead of just the outers. I'm going to start using PC-48 chains from now on to save some money, because the PC-68s rollers are still unplated and they rust if you don't take care of them anyway. Plus, if I'm neglecting my bike to the point of it rusting, I want my inexpensive chain to be an indicator of this before my expensive bits go to heck.

bkrownd

If you use a powerlink, remember to purchase a few of them. The powerlink doesn't last forever. The plating will wear off after a few months (daily use), leaving a rough surface. I put in a new powerlink about once every 6-12 months.