how the heck do I get my rear cassette off?
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how the heck do I get my rear cassette off?
I have a Trek mountain bike that has a really dirty drive train. The grease has gotten so dirty with sand and dirt it won't move smoothly. I want to take it apart, clean the parts, and relube them. I have having trouble figuring how to get the rear cassette off. On the rim of the inner gear, it says "SunRace" which I assume is the name of the company that makes that gear. According to this page: https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48 I need the FR5 tool to get the rear cassette off. Well, I just received my FR5 todasy in the mail, and it doesn't fit. The tool looks like exactly what I need, but it just doesn't fit. The number of teeth are the same, but the tool seems to be about 1 mm too big to fit inside the cogs. What do I do now? All the other tools listed there seem to be completely different. What tool di I need? I need to get this bike working ASAP, since this is my only mode of transportation. Here is a picture of my wheel:
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That looks like a freewheel. The FR-5 is for a freehub cassette. See the top of the page you referenced for the difference. I think the FR-1 is probably what you need. https://www.parktool.com/products/det...at=4&item=FR-1
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freewheel
You too have fallen prey to this common mistake. Always check the splines, if they spin, its a (free)hub, if they don't its a (free)Wheel
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To your question: It looks like a Shimano. The tool for the job would be the Park Tool FR-1. FR = Freewheel Remover.
Bon Chance!
Bon Chance!
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OK I just got my FR1 in the mail today. Now I'm sure this one fits, but I have another problem. The thing won't come loose! I'm putting all my weight on the wrench but it's not budging... Did I get the wrong tool again? Here is another pic:
I'm thinking I need to remove that silver thing at the top first, right?
Also, since the spines do not spin, and therefore it's a freewheel, does that mean I do not need one of those chainwhip thingies?
edit: I put my whole body weight onto the biggest wrench I own, which is 7 inches long. That makes, according to my calculations, about 130 newton meters. Should that be enough to loosen the nut, or do I just need a bigger wrench?
I'm thinking I need to remove that silver thing at the top first, right?
Also, since the spines do not spin, and therefore it's a freewheel, does that mean I do not need one of those chainwhip thingies?
edit: I put my whole body weight onto the biggest wrench I own, which is 7 inches long. That makes, according to my calculations, about 130 newton meters. Should that be enough to loosen the nut, or do I just need a bigger wrench?
Last edited by NBv4; 11-14-08 at 08:39 PM.
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To get my freewheel off for the first time, I had to attach my wrench to a 5' piece of metal tubing. It will take A LOT of force to get that bugger off, as it tightens itself when you ride. Keep trying!
Oh and no, you don't need a chainwhip to remove or install a freewheel.
Oh and no, you don't need a chainwhip to remove or install a freewheel.
#8
WV is not flat..
I've had this problem. Try clamping the tool in a vise and putting the freewheel down over it. You can get alot more leverage by grabbing the wheel and turning it. Hope that helps..
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I've often found the "Hunk-O-Pipe" method better then the vice method. Just make sure you use a good, tight-fitting wrench in the first place. I use a Sear Craftsman 12" for starters. I call my hunk-o-pipe 'Gertrude.' Original purpose unknown.
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And I've seen vices rip out their mounting bolts through the bench as well. I prefer a simpler technique with the tyre mounted and pumped up. Use a big wrench and put the open end over the FR1 tool. Lay the wheel vertically and rolled up against a wall so that the rolling action of pushing on the wrench rolls the wheel into the wall. Set it so the wrench is about horizontal. Then step on the end of the wrench with your foot and gradually add more weight. Use one hand to keep the wheel vertical and the other hand on the wall to steady yourself and it usually comes off before my other foot has to leave the ground.
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Be sure to keep the tool firmly in place, even if you need to semi-install your quick release or other device to keep the tool in place while you loosen it that first bit. Wonder why freewheels are gone?
#14
WV is not flat..
Make sure you put a little grease on the threads of the hub before you put the new one on and it will not be so hard to get off if you need to do it again..
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Absolutely^^^! And use a teflon-based grease like Finish Line or such. I just had a lovely war getting a freewheel off (my gymnastics were Olympic-class!). It had been on the hub since 1986. When it finally gave in and spun off, the old teflon-grease was still present and slick.
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