Submerged

Alright, I just purchased an older cannondale as shown

https://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=220393173187

I want to do some upgrades that will be the most beneficial / easy. I bought "Zinn & the Art Of Road Bike Maintenance" for some literature before I start.

My question is what should I start with? I have about $500 on top of what I paid for this to transform it into a decent bike. How difficult are carbon forks / carbon handlebars to install? The bike has new cabling and a new tire. It was listed as the gears not working after the maintenance on the bike; could that be due to cable stretch? The components are campagnolo, which as expensive, so I guess $500 wont goo too far?

Thanks!

longbeachgary

Probably not cable stretch. Not sure which campy group it has but you need to fix/replace the shifters first thing. You need pedals or the correct cleats. I don't see any reason the change the fork and handlebars unless they are damaged. The 3.0 is a good frame if only a little stiff - the parts mix is a jumble of this-n-that but as long as it runs who cares. (I do have the same Time cleats that you are welcome to if you decide to use the Time pedals - just let me know).
Gary

Submerged

I will have to wait until it arrives to determine if the shifters are beyond repair. This brings me to one more question. I am not sure of the "speed" of the bike...7 maybe? Can I use modern shifters with the drivetrain currently on the bike? Campagnolo brifters 10 speed for example

dwr1961

Welcome, Submerged...

That's a 20+ year-old bike by the looks of it. The folks over in the "Classic & Vintage" section will probably know exactly. They can also give you some idea of where to get compatible parts. That will be a challenge.

To answer your current question, you won't be able to use 'modern' shifters, but will have to find ones that will work with the derailleurs on the bike. The seven cogs on the back means you'll have to find "7- speed" Campy shifters... That's roadie shorthand to delineate parts compatibility. Technically, the bike is a 14-speed because it has a double crank in the front and seven cogs in the rear... You'll rarely hear road cyclists use the term, though..

When the bike arrives you will have a better idea of what needs your immediate attention.

Good luck!

DWR

spindustrious

Submerged, on spec it looks like a good find at a good price. Nice work!

You're not getting a whole lot of feedback because there aren't any particularly obvious/glaring things that need fixing (besides the shifting problem...) or that really ought to be upgraded. As Gary noted, it's a bit of a jumble, but if it's all in the shape that it seems to be in, there's no pressing need to replace any of it.

I'd sort out the shifting problem right away, get some good shorts and a helmet, and then just ride the damn thing. If you're happy with it (or you can't tell the difference!), then you can save your $500 for hookers and gin. If there are things that bother you, then you'll have money to upgrade them later on.

It looks promising...have fun with it!

CACycling

Looks like a 7 speed cassette is on there but difficult to tell for sure. One thing I noticed is the way they routed the shift cables from the brifters. I've never seen them run under the bar tape with the brake cables. Perhaps this is why it has shifting problems.

If you can get the shifter issue worked out and the rest of the drivetrain looks good, I'd leave it all as-is. If you need to spend much to get the shifting corrected, I'd look to take it to a 9 or 10 speed if you have room.

Carbon forks could be a nice addition. Aluminum bike can be a bit harsh and the CF forks will help a lot. The only difference you'll probably notice with CF bars is a lighter wallet. Concentrate on getting everything dialed in. Replace anything that NEEDS replacing and get out on the road. If you really want to part witrh some money, buy a beater bike to use when you want to get in some miles but don't want to muck up the C'dale.

Good luck and have a blast.

nitropowered

Campy runs the shift cables under the tape.

Its probably a matter of replacing the g-springs in those shifters.

LarDasse74

+1

Oh... and tires... new tires that are better quality or better suited for the riding you are doing are the best performance upgrade you can make for the money ($60 - $100 for a pair of very very very good tires). And tires wear out, so even if the tires on the bike are fine you can spend even more on hookers and gin until you have to replace.

dperreno

Try ProBikeKit, they have very good prices for tires and free shipping to the US. My last order arrived within a week. People seem to like the Michelin ProRace3's and the Conti 4000's.

And you are in luck with the shifters because they CAN be serviced/rebuilt, unlike Shimano. It's likely you won't have to replace them.

Panthers007

Nothing wrong with taking the frame of a good 20 or 30 year old road-bike and building it up with modern components. No need to hide it in C & V if you want advice on what's good today. My 1982 Reynolds 531 Puch A-D is an example of an ongoing project. Modern meets vintage - and they work together very, very well!

Submerged

Wow, you guys are a wealth of information. Thanks to each and every person that commented here +1 for the hookers and gin haha. I just picked up Zimms Guide to road bike maintenance and it has a section on restoring campy shifters (8s) so I am going to do that as soon as it comes in!

The thing I can't understand is why there is a 7 cog free-wheel yet, the shifters / derailleur appear to be 8 speed? I think the derailleur is a record 8s from around 93. Can I buy a campagnolo 8 speed cassette and throw it on?

https://cgi.ebay.ca/Campagnolo-Record...3286.m63.l1177

This for example

Thanks again guy

Panthers007

If the wheel has a freewheel on it, not a cassette, then no you can't put a Campy cassette on it. You need a wheel built with the proper free-hub. Or you can learn to build wheels and build one yourself. I have a Miche 8spd. which is the same configuration as Campagnolo, and double Campy chainrings on the Campy cranks (Super-Record 1982). The resulting 16spd. machine, shown above, shifts flawlessly and silently.

dit

You will need to measure the rear spacing. (the space between the rear chain stays) If it is 126mm you may be stuck with the 7 speed rear. If it is 130mm you will be able to fit a modern wheel/hub and go to 10 speeds if you want but that will require several other changes. Most of the C&V fellas say you can't cold set the rear spacing from 126 to 130. I have no personal knowledge but it would seem to me that bending the alum. rear stays 2mm on each side should be doable but don't quote me on that. It is just my personal thoughts. Nice bike by the way. I would just fix the shift problem and ride the heck out of it. If the money is giving you the itch, spend it on another bike. Just remember......steel is real......hehehe

cny-bikeman

You'll get much better rear brake response if you get rid of the extra 6" or so of cable housing!

Panthers007

It's set perfectly for what it is, thank you.

ksargent

My experience with the "upgrade / mods" is that aside from comfort issues (i.e. do you like the saddle, is the handlebar right for you, etc.), you are going to get the most bang for your buck on wheel upgrades, Assuming all of the rest if working of course.

Ken

mzeffex 

i LOVE your bike. /drools But, is there a reason for the excessive cables?

skyrider

Awesome looking bike you did allright. Being aluminum I dont think you can spread the rear stays. Why do you want to change your 7 speed. Your mavic wheels are good wheels everything looks just fine.The only issue is shifting which can be dealt with fairly easily . I dont see why you want to spend money on upgrades, you got quality parts on it already. Enjoy it. I would move it over C+V there up on this stuff and also meshing modern and vintage.

Panthers007

That's the way we all did our cables back in 1983when the frame/fork were born. It was just as aero-brakes were coming in. The particular bend keeps the bars from binding anywhere. And allows for the smoothest operation. The brakes feel like warm butter on a hot day. Those cable are lined with polyethylene and the brakes are Modolo Speedy from 1983 - promotional red that were distributed only to importers. The red one's were not supposed to be sold the the public.

cny-bikeman

Not to be picky but I wrenched from 1974 to 1996 and "we" never did our cables that way. When you have that much cable housing much of your effort goes into flexing of the cable against the housing. If we found them that way we sized them properly. If anything you should have a bit more of a bend at the rear caliper, where the more or less straight housing may tend to pull the brake to one side.

Also you should know that those brakes were designed for the front caliper to be on the right hand lever and the rear on the left - race style. Much cleaner look, no binding, and the dominant hand (assuming a right-hander) can better modulate the brake that does most of the work. I have no idea what you mean by "when the frame/fork were born" (sic) or what aero brakes have to do with your choice of cable housing length.

Panthers007

Then I guess you simply don't understand what I'm saying. Good day.

mzeffex 

Ah alright, very nice bike you got thar.

zacster

I'd have to agree on the cable/housing length, those are way too long. I've never seen them arched up like that. As for which side they are on, I don't agree with CNY. Right is always rear. You'll pitch yourself over if you had it the other way.

mrvrsick

I don't get how

zacster

If you're used to right is rear, but it is actually front, you could apply too much pressure and lock up the wheel. I'm not saying it will necessarily happen. If you never need to jam the brakes it would never happen. If you only ride with them reversed it won't be an issue. But if you mostly ride a bike with right is rear, and you have a situation where you need to stop fast, you could end up going over.