CCP-4 and CCP-2 crank pullers.
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CCP-4 and CCP-2 crank pullers.
OK, so I have a CCP-4 to take off the cranks on my bikes with ISIS BB's. I just bought an older commuter bike with a square taper BB and so I thought I had to get a different tool (namely, a CCP-2). I bring the CCP-2 home and to me it looks like the EXACT same tool....so my question I guess is should I take it back?? It says on the park website that the CCP-4 cannot be used on square tapered BB's, but the tool is identical in my eyes.
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Originally Posted by pual
OK, so I have a CCP-4 to take off the cranks on my bikes with ISIS BB's. I just bought an older commuter bike with a square taper BB and so I thought I had to get a different tool (namely, a CCP-2). I bring the CCP-2 home and to me it looks like the EXACT same tool....so my question I guess is should I take it back?? It says on the park website that the CCP-4 cannot be used on square tapered BB's, but the tool is identical in my eyes.
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Thanks Retro, now how the hell do I get this crank off?! I followed the directions...I took off the hex bolt and dust cap on the crank itself. Then I threaded in the nut until it was bottomed out (I made sure it was in all the way). Then I threaded in the puller stud (the part attached to the handle, right?) and went until I felt resistance. Then I went more, as the instructions indicate but I cannot for the life of me get this damn thing off. It just requires too much torque...perhaps I'm doing something wrong? Do I keep that little screw-in tip on while I'm doing this or should I take it off?
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Originally Posted by pual
Thanks Retro, now how the hell do I get this crank off?! I followed the directions...I took off the hex bolt and dust cap on the crank itself. Then I threaded in the nut until it was bottomed out (I made sure it was in all the way). Then I threaded in the puller stud (the part attached to the handle, right?) and went until I felt resistance. Then I went more, as the instructions indicate but I cannot for the life of me get this damn thing off. It just requires too much torque...perhaps I'm doing something wrong? Do I keep that little screw-in tip on while I'm doing this or should I take it off?
At times, the handles on those crank pullers seem too short to provide enough torque. Sometimes, I'll wear a good leather work glove to turn the handle. The handle is not ergonomic - too flat and the edge makes for a sore palm. Or, I have a pipe I place over the handle to give a larger lever arm (my preferred method). The square taper can get pressed on pretty tight.
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Make sure that you haven't left a washer inside the crankarm. Make sure that you've got the body of the crank puller screwed as fully into the crankarm as you can. Sometimes it takes quite a lot of torque to make the crankarm start to come off.
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Thanks guys I really appreciate the feedback. You may have missed the question at the end of my 2nd post... about that llittle screw-on tip at the end (it's smaller on the CCP-2 and bigger on the CCP-4).. do I keep it screwed in during this process or take it off?
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Originally Posted by pual
Thanks guys I really appreciate the feedback. You may have missed the question at the end of my 2nd post... about that llittle screw-on tip at the end (it's smaller on the CCP-2 and bigger on the CCP-4).. do I keep it screwed in during this process or take it off?
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Yes, it did. They weren't thorough at all. I also checked the Park Tools website and couldn't find any information on it either. I also read the Barnett manual on cotterless crankarms and couldn't find anything on it either. I guess i don't understand why they don't just have a permanent end on it instead of a screw-on one.
Last edited by pual; 06-13-04 at 07:16 AM.
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Originally Posted by pual
I guess i don't understand why they don't just have a permanent end on it instead of a screw-on one.
Retro Grouch mentioned a very good idea - make sure any washers are removed.
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Originally Posted by pual
I guess i don't understand why they don't just have a permanent end on it instead of a screw-on one.
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Better yet, why don't they just sell one tool with two interchangeable tips, one for square and one for Octalink/ISIS? Color-code the tips (rather than the handle) and Bob's your uncle. Cheaper to buy, cheaper to maintain (only replace the tip when damaged/worn and not the whole tool), and one less tool cluttering up your box.