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Old Raleigh/Schwinn Parts Compatibility

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Old 03-16-10, 04:01 PM
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Old Raleigh/Schwinn Parts Compatibility

I'm fixing up an old Raleigh- combining parts from an old Schwinn Suburban and an 84-ish World Sport.

Thread on the subject...

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...prite-Upgrades

Everything is pretty well together- but I was having problems with the inner chainwheel being bent and the cranks didn't turn freely. So I decided to try removing the crank arms and managed to break off one of the cotters and mangle a couple of teeth on the large chainwheel and break the little pants leg protector-y thingy.

Now, at this point I'm wondering how I can get the spindle/chainwheel/crankset off the World Sport and put the applicable parts on the Raleigh. As I understand, it's a different thread- but can the Sugino/Suntour spindle and bearings work on the little holder cups on the Raleigh?
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Old 03-16-10, 05:01 PM
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If I'm understanding your question correctly, I think the answer may be no - look here:

https://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html#upgrade
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Old 03-16-10, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by buck mulligan
If I'm understanding your question correctly, I think the answer may be no - look here:

https://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html#upgrade
Hey Buck...

Thanks. I think that pretty well seals it...

At this point I think best possible outcome is to take care of the bearings in the BB, find a new set of chainwheels that'll fit this thing and ride it all cottered.

Crap.

I guess I wouldn't be so bummed except for the fact that I biffed up the chainrings and pants leg protector thingy.
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Old 03-17-10, 03:31 PM
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Let this be a lesson to you. A hammer should not be used on a bicycle.


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Old 03-18-10, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by DMF
Let this be a lesson to you. A hammer should not be used on a bicycle.


I hear ya.

In my own defense, I'll say I gave serious pause before doing it- even though Sheldon said it was OK...





I'm going to take a better look at what's left of the chainrings- I think the one tooth I sort of dented will be fine- the pants leg protector thingy... If I can remove that- or trim it all the way around or even out the ding... I'll try pulling off the inner bent chainring and try straightening that...
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Old 03-21-10, 08:18 PM
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This is pretty much my post from the C&V forum, there's some questions at the end...
Golly, where'd I leave off...

OK, I was able to spend a good chunk of time on this over the past few days.

Right now it's pretty much running- just some adjustments.

I went to a couple of stores and got new cotters.

After getting the BB taken apart and pulling out all the bearings- they looked fine. The cups looked fine- so I packed them all up with grease, put that all together. I tightened everything up, made sure the spindel turned freely, put the cranks on, tightened the cotters, spun the cranks around- and the non-drive side crank was hitting the chainstay... I thought I put the spindle in backwards. Started taking it all apart and I couldn't pop the cotter out. I tussled with it for a bit again, it took some doing, but again, the C clamp and 16mm socket. Use the fixed end of the clamp on the cotter head, and the spinny end of the clamp on the socket end. Took it apart- switched the spindle around, then the inside chainwheel hits the chainstay... I had it right the first time, just needed to adjust it... Redid it again... took apart, cleaned up and greased up the wheels.

After getting it all together, I noticed that when switching from the large to small chainwheel, the chain didn't seat on the gear teeth for several rotations. If it didn't seat, the chain would again slip between the two chainwheels. Yes, neither cog are completely straight- but I couldn't see that being the primary factor. After doing a bit of looking at other bikes- the distance between the cogs is much greater- I assume that 30 years ago, they used bigger chains or something in England... I got a couple of washers and replaced the spacers between the rings with washers- about 2/3 the distance... It works all right- it just seems to catch in one spot when the freewheel is in the outermost setting.

I learned a bunch of stuff, did a lot of little problem solving- it still needs to be tweaked more- but I've ridden it a few miles and it seems to be doing well...


Since this was my first time doing bearings and grease- is it normal to have grease keep coming out?

What would be causing the outer ring to catch on the chain in ONE spot when the rear is in the smallest gear?

Also, how do I adjust the front derailleurs so that it doesn't overshift and either go to the BB shell or the crank side? It just gets goofy depending on where the chain in the back...
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Old 03-23-10, 12:45 PM
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Yes, if you overpack (which isn't necessarily a bad thing).

No idea. I'd have to see it. Does it catch on every rotation?

Usually it's the limit screw, but it can also be the angle, or a part mismatch, or other things. Go through the procedure from the beginning. And if that doesn't satisfy, find a pro.
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