wkatastrof

Hello,

I'm looking to replace some original drive-train parts on my 1974 Schwinn Continental. The smallest gear has the chain skip, and occasionally, the bike will jump out of one gear or another. I believe the chain might be stretched.

To be safe, I'd like to replace the following parts:

I'm looking get the parts from bikepartsusa.com since my LBS informed me that they don't have many parts, and that I'd probably want something a bit better then what they've got. From looking at that site, I'm not exactly sure what all of the specifications mean when looking at these items. Would someone be able to clarify for me what would work together size-wise on the bike that I have?

-5 spd freewheel
[ https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ttes-freewheel ]
(Perhaps the Schimano 6-spd will fit?)

-chain - I know it needs to be a 3/32 size as it is a mutli-speed bike.
[ https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ry/multi-speed ]

-derailleur - The teeth on my derailleur look really worn so I would probably do well with replacing this too.
[ https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ear_derailleur ]

I can provide measurements of things that I already have if it is impossible to provide a suitable replacement based on the information I have given. The parts are all original. I bike about 6 to 8 miles almost daily all year around on this bike.

Also, could anyone recommend good brake pads? I have an original steel wheel on the front and an aluminum wheel on the back w/ center pull brakes.

All of your help is appreciated.

Thank You,

~wk

oldbobcat

This all sounds reasonable enough if you don't turn it into an epic.

You'll need a 5-speed freewheel, though, to fit the 120mm spacing of your rear axle. Or a 6-speed hyperglide freewheel, if you can find one. Regular 6-speed spacing requires 126mm axle spacing, which means you'll need to dismantle and rebuild your hub and re-dish the wheel. More bother than the bike is worth. This one will work: https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ttes-freewheel. You will need freewheel removal tools, one for the unit that's on the bike now and one for the new freewheel. They're cheap

As for chains, any 5, 6, 7, or 8-speed chain will work, and there's no need to go overboard: https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ry=multi-speed. The thing to remember is that all 1/2 x 3/32 are not for use with derailleurs. You need one that is specifically made for multi-speed freewheels.

My choice of derailleur for this sort of project is the Shimano Tourney because it's cheap, reliable (as long as you don't whack it on something hard), will work fine with your friction shifters, and it comes with a bolt-on hanger. For those who aren't in the know, all Schwinn Chicago lightweights from this period (Continental, Varsity, and Sports Tourer) used bolt-on hangers. With a 14-28 freewheel, the medium cage version with hanger should work fine: https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ear_derailleur.

For break pads, these (https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...?item=01-88954) resemble the originals most closely, but these BMX pads might work a little better (https://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ke-brake_shoes).

New cable with teflon-lined housing would be a good idea, too. If you keep everything simple you'll do fine.

wkatastrof

Thanks for letting me know about the freewheel spacing. What about this freewheel from sheldon brown:

Shimano 5-speed Uniglide (not Hyperglide) $19.95 buy button
14 - 17 - 20 - 24 - 28

I don't think I have the knowledge currently to go and rebuild my hub and redish the wheel, though I would like to eventually.

I think the tool I need for my current freewheel is the following:
[ https://www.bicycletool.com/normandym...wheeltool.aspx ]
The LBS didn't have the right tool for sale when I replaced the rear wheel, though they had one they could use to remove my freewheel. If I get this new freewheel, I might just buy the tool for the new one (which one?), as once I take the old one off, I would no longer need the tool. Would you say that the old freewheel is caput as well as there might be wear?

I'll also be buying a chain tool, and 4mm housing as on my bike the shifter housing is narrower than the brake housing.

Thanks again.

FastJake

Just to clarify, you don't need a freewheel tool to install a freewheel. You only need the tool to remove the freewheel. If work on bikes occasionally it makes sense to buy tools for both freewheels, but if you never plan on doing this job again you might be better off to just have the bike shop pop your old freewheel off. I agree with all of oldbobcat's recommendations otherwise.

If the teeth on your current freewheel are badly worn, it's probably time for the junk pile. Freewheels aren't particularly expensive or hard to come by.

wrk101

1. You can find a five speed freewheel quite a bit cheaper, if you so inclined, either Niagara Cycle or ebay. You can also find five speed chain for less than $5.

+1 There are so many different freewheel tools out there, I have eight, and I could use about a dozen more. So unless you plan to do a fair amount of wrenching, I would just go to my favorite bike shop and have them remove the old freewheel for you. +1 You don't need a tool to install the new one.

+1 Nothing wrong with the low end Shimano Tourney derailleurs, or pick up a nice vintage Suntour unit at a co op or ebay (I am kind of partial to Suntour).

When is the last time the rear wheel hub was serviced? With the freewheel is off, this is a good time to get your bearings replaced and regreased. I would have the shop do that for you as well.

wkatastrof

Alright, so this is the list I've come up with using Niagra cycling:

Sunrace Freewheel 14-28T 5-speed, Brown
[ https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...oducts_id=5152 ]
(This will fit, right? )

KMC Z50 Chain 6/7/8 Speed 1/2" x 3/32" x 116L Silver/Brown
[ https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...oducts_id=2460 ]

Shimano RD-TX31 Tourney Rear Derailleur 6/7-Speed, w/Hanger Black
[ https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=414546 ]

Cable Gear Clarks Wire Casi 1.2x2275mm Tef Road
[ https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=10172 ]
(hopefully this comes with the housing as well??)


Some other questions:
- How do I know which freewheel remover tool would I need for this Sun freewheel? (or any other?)

- My current freewheel has printed 'Schwinn Approved France Model F3'
It's like this one [ https://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-Schwinn-...-/130437377033 ]
Does anyone think that this tool [ https://www.bicycletool.com/normandym...wheeltool.aspx ] will work for that? My freewheel itself doesn't look particularly worn. I'm thinking I could perhaps use it if I build a winter-only bike.

Also, the rear wheel is aluminum, less than a year old.

Thanks again.

Wordbiker

In a pinch you can remove the freewheel with the universal remover: a bench vise.

Crush the body until turning the wheel removes it. You only need the proper tool if you want to re-use the freewheel.

Also, that cable does not come with the housing. Get a kit with both like this.

tcs

A number of Huret rear derailler's jockey wheels didn't even have teeth. Clean it & lube it and you'll be fine. A better place to spend your money would be an aluminum front rim.

tcs

wkatastrof

Hello again,

I've installed the following thus far:

SunRace freewheel
new chain
shimano tourney rear derailleur
new aluminum front wheel

I'm done for the day, but I'd still need to (re)install the rear derailleur cable, the front derailleur and cable, and new kool stop continentals.

One reason I stopped is that I noticed there was some play in the Sunrace freewheel. I had noticed a similar kind of movement with the old freewheel, though I thought it was so only because it was close to 40 years old and the bearings haven't been repacked since I've had it. Can someone tell me if the movement of the SunRace freewheel is normal? I took a video of it, hopefully you can see what I mean. [ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wp0RPElF0Zs ] It has a movement similar to a spinning top which is slowing down and moving side to side. Here is a video I took where you can see some of the movement. I tried to keep the frame in the shot so you could see the movement in comparison. I had to hold my rear wheel of of the ground while holding the camera so its a bit shaky. Let me know what you think of this issue.

I would also like to say that this tool [ https://www.bicycletool.com/normandym...wheeltool.aspx ] barely has any teeth, as machined by bicycletool.com , and thus is useless. My LBS had an old old remover that fit my original freewheel, and it had very big teeth.

Thanks again.

JanMM

Not unusual for a freewheel to move around a bit. Nothing in your video caught my eye.

JanMM

Lightweight? I know, that's how Schwinn referred to them.

Agree wholeheartedly with keep this simple and not getting carried away.