veryfaststuff

The bike I currently ride on is likely a Haro V1(1999?). I got it on craigslist for around $100 a year and 2 months ago. The specs are listed at https://www.bikesdetails.info/Haro_Vector_V1_1999.html.

The current state of this bike is terrible, despite what my LBS says. The previous two owners likely performed little to no servicing on it. For me, this will be my first time to actually work on the bike. Issues are as follows:

1. The paint on the frame is scratched off in various places.
2. The handlebar grips have their ends grinded off, leaving the handlebar inner tube exposed.
3. The saddle seat surface is torn in several places, leaving the inner foam exposed.
4. The crankset is a 48/38/28. The 48 & 38 are warped, so all I can use now is the 28. Since it seems to be a bolted set, I would have to replace the entire thing. Not sure if the bottom bracket needs to be replaced, but looking at how the whole crankset looks... At the very least it feels rather smooth despite the clicking, which probably demands attention.
5. The chain is bent and stretched, so there are a few skips from time to time. I have a replacement SRAM PC-830, but I haven't used it yet since the cassette is likely damaged.
6. Visibly the cassette, a Shimano Megarange 11/34, doesn't look too bad. However the chain has been in bad condition for over 8 months, so there is likely a grinding on the cassette that would make it uncomfortable or incompatible to use with a new chain.
7. The rear hub is suited only for the freewheel design, based on the fact that it holds a megarange. Since I prefer a freehub that accepts cassettes with the speeds I'd like without customization, it's likely I would have to replace that as well.
8. The front and rear shifters are in uncomfortable, though usable, positions.
9. Tires are of the standard MTB variety, very knobby. I would prefer a more smooth tread to reduce rolling resistance.

To summarize, to have a workable bike, it is likely that I would have to replace the entire drivetrain, knowing the condition it was in after getting it from the previous owner. For minimal replacements & low cost, I made a little list with rounded cost to make things simple:

1. Cassette: $30 for a Shimano HG70 11/28
2. Crankset: $20 for a Shimano M151 170mm 28/38/48
3. Chain: $0, since I already have a PC-830. I have been suggested to get a sturdier chain though, for $15-$20.
4. Tools: $25-$30: $5 for an FR-5 lockring remover tool(not sure if this is compatible), $10 for an adjustable wrench, $10-15 meant for other tools that help remove the crankset.

The total estimate for replacing the entire drivechain would be $75-100 for relatively low-end/mid-range parts. I won't compromise on keeping the old tires. The pair of new, slick Kenda tires would be an additional $20.

For repainting, getting the tools to remove all the parts, sand the old paint down, priming it, and clear coating would be over $50(optimistic cost) alone, not to mention the time and care needed. Replacing the handlebar and seat would be $25-30.

If I were to compare the total cost of replacements, excluding wheels, to buying a good condition used bike, it would be around $150-175. Excluding the paint job, the total would be about $100-125.

Since I can manage to work with a $125-$225 budget, what do you guys think? Obviously I'd like to minimize cost but not at the expense of durability in the long term. The typical riding conditions are in downtown Austin, which includes some hills and the occasional pothole from neglected roads.

adam_mac84

I can tell u from my experience, that there are plenty of nickel and dime things that will also add on to your build cost. Do you ever plan to upgrade the bike? If so, now may be the time. You say you have a budget of max $225, yes? Can you stretch that at all? You may be able to find another better maintained or barely ridden bike on CL for that. How many miles do you ride? Is this bike for transportation consistently? or trips to the icecream shop? All things to be considered

wrk101

+1 You will get nickeled and dimed so your estimate it low. I would find a good used bike instead. I find good bikes all of the time, well within your budget. Most used bikes I find have been rarely ridden. Many bikes spend their lives hanging from hooks in garages, sitting in basements, or whatever. Eventually owners either sell these bikes or donate them to the charity of their choice.

Also use this as an opportunity to get the type and model bike you prefer. For instance, do you want to move to a road bike from a MTB? Etc?

My first rule on rehabbing a bike is that the paint and overall frame condition need to be excellent. Repainting a frame is costly in time and supplies. When I buy bikes with paint in bad condition (which I do a fair amount of the time), almost all of those bikes become donors.