ISIS BB already crapping
#1
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ISIS BB already crapping
I replaced my ISIS with another thinking that it would last a little more than 45 days!!
What are my other options? I will try to replace just the crank arms as long as the BCD is compatible.
I know there is square taper, octalink, powerspline, hollow shell. I just want something that won't crap out after a short time. It has to last at least two years and three would be better.
Thanks.
BTW, I would take the BB back to the LBS, but the LBS warranty is 30 days. I am going to call them anyway to see what they suggest.
What are my other options? I will try to replace just the crank arms as long as the BCD is compatible.
I know there is square taper, octalink, powerspline, hollow shell. I just want something that won't crap out after a short time. It has to last at least two years and three would be better.
Thanks.
BTW, I would take the BB back to the LBS, but the LBS warranty is 30 days. I am going to call them anyway to see what they suggest.
#3
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I had really good luck with the nicer FSA ISIS units, the platinum pro I think. Put about 3k miles on one through the winter and everything, no issues. The cheaper ones are REALLY bad.
What brand model was it?
What brand model was it?
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The American Classic split ring ISIS bottom brackets are rebuildable with a pair of bearings that cost $7-$8 each.
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ISIS doesn't really leave enough room for the bearings within a standard dimension bottom bracket shell. My local bike shop back in college figured that the isis units they sold lasted 1/2 as long as comparably priced units of other types, and that applied to all price ranges. On the other hand, given the cost of new cranks, it might be worth buying a nicer unit like the one in the second post. While a cheap square taper unit might not be smooth as silk, it will generally last. A cheap ISIS unit will practically fall apart.
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I too have had good luck with the better FSA bottom brackets. The stock BB (TruVativ GIGA pipe SL) died after 2500 miles. I replaced it with an FSA Platinum BB and have approximately 7,500 miles on it. It still spins like new.
#7
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put an O ring around the axle before you put the crankarms back on,
an extra bit of crud shield for the bearings, cannot hurt.
an extra bit of crud shield for the bearings, cannot hurt.
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Truvativ Gigapipe and I have the o ring on it.
I was thinking the Shimano 54 square taper with problem solvers up cup to replace the plastic thread. Replacing my cranks with Sugino RD2 and using my existing 52/39.
My first truvativ lasted about 1500 miles.
I was thinking the Shimano 54 square taper with problem solvers up cup to replace the plastic thread. Replacing my cranks with Sugino RD2 and using my existing 52/39.
My first truvativ lasted about 1500 miles.
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hmm, I've had pretty good luck with my isis bb's so far though i think one was the aforementioned fsa platinum that ran me close to 60 bucks at my lbs
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The Shimano 54 is still just another sealed unit. I think quality of the sealed unit will be the determining factor more so than what shape the spindles are. To me Octalink, ISIS, and a sealed cartridge square taper BB are equivalent technologies. If you want to leave ISIS, then I would think going to cup-and-cone or an external BB setup would be an actual change.
With cup-and-cone you get larger bearings (better wear) and usually the least amount of friction. They aren't sealed as well so they require more maintenance, but they seem to last for decades. I have the original bottom bracket in my 1992 Bridgestone RB-T.
I only had an external BB equipped bike for a year and didn't ride it that much. It uses larger bearings than a sealed unit as well, so it should have a longer life span. They have seals and tend to have more friction, but I think are still serviceable.
#13
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Bearing sizes matter, even on sealed units so a Shimano 54 isn't just another sealed unit. I can't imagine getting 1500 to 2500 miles out of a BB and not throwing it at someone. Many people get 4 to 6 times that or more out of Shimano square taper BB's and 8 to 12 times that or more out of a Phil Wood BB.
Without replacing the cranks I would be inclined to the SKF, if you can find it, otherwise I would replace it with an old-fashioned square taper.
Without replacing the cranks I would be inclined to the SKF, if you can find it, otherwise I would replace it with an old-fashioned square taper.
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Last edited by canopus; 04-28-11 at 03:55 PM. Reason: grammer
#15
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If you plan to keep the bike for 20 years or don't mind spending the money then yes, if not then a shimano will probably do you. I understand the difference between spending $75 to $125 on a BB vs $25 to $30. I own two phils (not much shimano on my bikes) but purchased them used. One has probably 5000 miles on it and the other at least 1500, they were hardly used when purchased two years ago but both are probably late 90's models. I tend to check in on them once a year since they are on road bikes. However I do ride them in the rain and on dirt fire roads. But again you have to weigh that cost for yourself. I had a specific requirement (ISO taper) and I found a good deal. I would have no problem using a $25 shimano BB either. Even if it lasted only 3 years that is $8.33 a year, that seems cheap enough to me.
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1984 Cannondale ST
1985 Cannondale SR300
1980 Gary Littlejohn Cruiser
1984 Trek 760
1981 Trek 710
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1984 Cannondale ST
1985 Cannondale SR300
1980 Gary Littlejohn Cruiser
1984 Trek 760
1981 Trek 710
Pics