cleaning vintage Cadex carbon and aluminum lugs and joins
07-14-11, 08:40 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 901
Bikes: (shortlist) Cyclops, Marinoni, Mariposa, Air Firday, Pocket Rocket Pro, NWT, SLX Fuso, Claude Pottie (France) x3, Masi Team 3v, Lemond Zurich, Bianchi OS
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 169 Post(s)
Liked 34 Times
in
27 Posts
cleaning vintage Cadex carbon and aluminum lugs and joins
Just got this nifty old Cadex carbon frame with aluminum joints.
How would you suggest I clean the white gunk off the aluminum joints? vinegar? fine steel wool?
where would it have come from ? too humid storage?
How would you suggest I clean the white gunk off the aluminum joints? vinegar? fine steel wool?
where would it have come from ? too humid storage?
07-14-11, 09:28 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,873
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5872 Post(s)
Liked 2,718 Times
in
1,517 Posts
Can't tell for sure, but usually the powdery white stuff that forms on polished aluminum is a form of oxide. In my experience it's usually because of exposure to salt, but might happen without salt being there.
Aluminum is corrosion resistant (not corrosion proof) because it forms an oxide skin which prevents further corrosion. Cleaning it off with abrasive, and certain polishes is counter productive because it exposed the reactive base metal leading to more corrosion.
If you want you can use a cleaner wax which will remove the loose stuff, and leave more protection on the lugs. If you expect exposure to the elements, or your own dripping sweat, rewax the lugs fairly often to keep them bright.
Aluminum is corrosion resistant (not corrosion proof) because it forms an oxide skin which prevents further corrosion. Cleaning it off with abrasive, and certain polishes is counter productive because it exposed the reactive base metal leading to more corrosion.
If you want you can use a cleaner wax which will remove the loose stuff, and leave more protection on the lugs. If you expect exposure to the elements, or your own dripping sweat, rewax the lugs fairly often to keep them bright.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
07-14-11, 11:11 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
I agree with FB that harsh abrasives should be avoided. A fine Scotchbrite pad should remove the loose stuff, followed by a good paste wax as a protective layer. Don't try to get a mirror shine, just get the joints clean and free of the buildup.
Aluminum does spontaneously form an oxide layer that self-protects it but the layer is thin and can be damaged by salt or other chemical contact and discolored by prolonged water exposure. A much thicker and more protective oxide coating is created by "anodizing" but that's not a DIY process, particularly not on a built-up frame.
Aluminum does spontaneously form an oxide layer that self-protects it but the layer is thin and can be damaged by salt or other chemical contact and discolored by prolonged water exposure. A much thicker and more protective oxide coating is created by "anodizing" but that's not a DIY process, particularly not on a built-up frame.
07-14-11, 03:06 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 901
Bikes: (shortlist) Cyclops, Marinoni, Mariposa, Air Firday, Pocket Rocket Pro, NWT, SLX Fuso, Claude Pottie (France) x3, Masi Team 3v, Lemond Zurich, Bianchi OS
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 169 Post(s)
Liked 34 Times
in
27 Posts
I am not familiar with "Cleaner Wax". is this a bike thing or a general car maintenance product?
07-14-11, 03:24 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,873
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5872 Post(s)
Liked 2,718 Times
in
1,517 Posts
Car thing, aka self cleaning wax, one step wax, or something similar. Some are only cleaners, some have very fine polishing compound to de-oxodize the paint finish for brighter color. Either is fine but don't get carried away with the ones that are abrasive.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
07-16-11, 10:12 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,548
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1530 Post(s)
Liked 718 Times
in
510 Posts
I'd guess the bike is clear-coated, and the corrosion is a result of damage to it. In which case, making it pretty again won't be simple... not sure what else to add.
BTW: I had a CFR1, which is pretty much the same as this, and it had a 135mm OLD. If yours is the same, you can stop squeezing the stays and have a stronger wheel with less dish if you add a 5mm spacer under the left locknut (you may be able to get away with using the 130mm spindle by moving it 2.5mm to the left).
BTW: I had a CFR1, which is pretty much the same as this, and it had a 135mm OLD. If yours is the same, you can stop squeezing the stays and have a stronger wheel with less dish if you add a 5mm spacer under the left locknut (you may be able to get away with using the 130mm spindle by moving it 2.5mm to the left).
