Crank removal disaster
08-05-11, 10:05 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Crank removal disaster
I've decided to try and overhaul my BB as I have an incessant knocking noise as I ride.Anyway I tried to remove my cranks today and broke the allen bolt that holds it on the BB.I removed the drive side by loosening counter clockwise and when I went non driveside it wouldn't budge counterclockwise and when I applied pressure clockwise it broke and now the bolt spins on nothing in both directions and won't grip.This is a campagnolo victory self removing crank that is loosened with a #7 allen key.strange thing is I'd removed both cranks in the past with no trouble.What do I do Now?Is the crank shot?How do I remove it now?Cut it off?Help!
08-05-11, 10:16 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,722
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5789 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times
in
1,431 Posts
Bring the bike to any shop that sells a decent amount of Campy. The outer ring that the One key system backs against to pull the crank is removable with a tool that fits the two small holes. Once that's out you use a typical crank puller, but it's unique in that it has left hand threads where it fits into the crank. (the crank is threaded LH so backing the mounting bolt against the ring won't push it out).
The tools can be bought, but it's probably not worth it to you, so let the shop do it. Also in the event that the ring is frozen in, you won't be out any tools.
If you justy want to get the crank off here's a plan B.
Loosen the mounting bolt as far as it goes. Use a pair of Jacobs Chuck wedges to push the crank loose, then work by degrees backing out the bolt and drawing the crank off. Once you've gotten it off, do not reuse it
unless you can remove the one-key ring, and have sourced the LH crank remover.
The tools can be bought, but it's probably not worth it to you, so let the shop do it. Also in the event that the ring is frozen in, you won't be out any tools.
If you justy want to get the crank off here's a plan B.
Loosen the mounting bolt as far as it goes. Use a pair of Jacobs Chuck wedges to push the crank loose, then work by degrees backing out the bolt and drawing the crank off. Once you've gotten it off, do not reuse it
unless you can remove the one-key ring, and have sourced the LH crank remover.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 08-05-11 at 10:19 AM.
08-06-11, 06:46 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Bring the bike to any shop that sells a decent amount of Campy. The outer ring that the One key system backs against to pull the crank is removable with a tool that fits the two small holes. Once that's out you use a typical crank puller, but it's unique in that it has left hand threads where it fits into the crank. (the crank is threaded LH so backing the mounting bolt against the ring won't push it out).
The tools can be bought, but it's probably not worth it to you, so let the shop do it. Also in the event that the ring is frozen in, you won't be out any tools.
I
If you justy want to get the crank off here's a plan B.
Loosen the mounting bolt as far as it goes. Use a pair of Jacobs Chuck wedges to push the crank loose, then work by degrees backing out the bolt and drawing the crank off. Once you've gotten it off, do not reuse it
unless you can remove the one-key ring, and have sourced the LH crank remover.
The tools can be bought, but it's probably not worth it to you, so let the shop do it. Also in the event that the ring is frozen in, you won't be out any tools.
I
If you justy want to get the crank off here's a plan B.
Loosen the mounting bolt as far as it goes. Use a pair of Jacobs Chuck wedges to push the crank loose, then work by degrees backing out the bolt and drawing the crank off. Once you've gotten it off, do not reuse it
unless you can remove the one-key ring, and have sourced the LH crank remover.
i ordered thAT TOOL YOU MENTIONED AND i HAVE A PARK CCP-22 CRANK PULLER i'VE NEVER USED,wILL THAT SUFFICE?I'm a little confused regarding the left hand threads.Does that mean i Turn the crank puller in the opposite direction?I intend to keep using the crank.Has it been compromised now that Its not self extracting anymore?Thanks for your help!!
08-06-11, 08:03 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,722
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5789 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times
in
1,431 Posts
i ordered thAT TOOL YOU MENTIONED AND i HAVE A PARK CCP-22 CRANK PULLER i'VE NEVER USED,wILL THAT SUFFICE?I'm a little confused regarding the left hand threads.Does that mean i Turn the crank puller in the opposite direction?I intend to keep using the crank.Has it been compromised now that Its not self extracting anymore?Thanks for your help!!
Other than the need for a spacial remover these cranks will function as standard cranks, so if the threads are fine you can continue using it. I suggest that you hold off buying the remover until you confirm that you can remove the self extractor ring, and that the spindle is OK, so you're not throwing good money after bad. If you decide to buy one, and can't find it at a decent price, I have a few and will sell you one.
To remove the one-key ring, remember to tighten the turn the spindle bolt to the right to take the pressure off, and remove the ring turning it clockwise.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
08-07-11, 10:22 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,722
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5789 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times
in
1,431 Posts
With one-key the extractor was built in and you removed the crank by backing the mounting bolt out against a retaining ring. The crank arms were threaded left hand so that the left-turning bolt couldn't turn the ring out during the removal process. The one-key design was abandoned after a few years because it created more problem than it solved.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 08-07-11 at 10:26 AM.
08-07-11, 03:52 PM
#8
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,841
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 807 Post(s)
Liked 710 Times
in
379 Posts
Yes, I'm sure, but it only applies to cranks made with the "one-key self-extractor" system like the OP's.
With one-key the extractor was built in and you removed the crank by backing the mounting bolt out against a retaining ring. The crank arms were threaded left hand so that the left-turning bolt couldn't turn the ring out during the removal process. The one-key design was abandoned after a few years because it created more problem than it solved.
With one-key the extractor was built in and you removed the crank by backing the mounting bolt out against a retaining ring. The crank arms were threaded left hand so that the left-turning bolt couldn't turn the ring out during the removal process. The one-key design was abandoned after a few years because it created more problem than it solved.
+1. IIRC, the C-Record and Croce d'Aune cranks had the left-threaded one-key release.
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chagzuki
Bicycle Mechanics
3
06-12-12 03:15 PM
