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Old 12-02-11, 08:29 PM   #1
himespau 
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Shimano bb compatibility table?

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone had, or knew of, a compatibility table for older shimano cranksets and bottom brackets. I just won an auction on fleabay for a Deore LX triple crankset from the early 90's. I have the part number and didn't know if there was a table I could put that in and find the appropriate length for the JIS spindle to buy. I wrote asking the seller if he knew, but I often run into Shimano charts of various kinds out on the web and didn't know if anyone knew of one that could answer this. A quick googling of the part number, FC-M560, didn't help me out. Still deciding which bike it'll go on as I have a couple of upgrade projects planned for this winter (probably depends on the condition when it arrives), but I'd like to minimize the chain problems with whichever one it is.

Thanks for your wisdom as usual.
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Old 12-02-11, 08:45 PM   #2
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Hmmm, a bit further googling and I may have answered my own question. This website says:

Shimano LX 74/100 BCD FC-M560 1993-94 113mm x 68mm - English 118mm x 73mm- English

I have a used 115x68 cartridge bb laying around as well as a 117.5 spindle and a couple of sets of cup and cones. I think I'll give the 115 a try as I doubt 2 mm will make that much difference in a 3x8 speed derailleured bike, right?
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Old 12-02-11, 09:49 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by himespau View Post
Hmmm, a bit further googling and I may have answered my own question. This website says:

Shimano LX 74/100 BCD FC-M560 1993-94 113mm x 68mm - English 118mm x 73mm- English

I have a used 115x68 cartridge bb laying around as well as a 117.5 spindle and a couple of sets of cup and cones. I think I'll give the 115 a try as I doubt 2 mm will make that much difference in a 3x8 speed derailleured bike, right?
First I assume the BCD's are 74/110 and the 100 was just a typo.

I had the same crank on a '93 Trek 7000 MTB (3x7) and had to use a 127.5 mm Shimano square taper cartridge bottom bracket to get the non-drive side crank arm to clear it's chainstay. Despite the way too long drive side spindle, it shifted fine so I expect your chainline problems will be minor.
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Old 12-03-11, 07:15 AM   #4
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Huh, it's weird that yours was so different than what is listed. I wonder if the table I found didn't know what it was talking about or maybe you just had an odd frame. I hope my bb works. If not, well, it was free and I'm not using it for anything else and I can get a different one for fairly cheap.
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Old 12-03-11, 07:59 AM   #5
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Huh, it's weird that yours was so different than what is listed. I wonder if the table I found didn't know what it was talking about or maybe you just had an odd frame. I hope my bb works. If not, well, it was free and I'm not using it for anything else and I can get a different one for fairly cheap.
Yeah, the Trek was an aluminum frame MTB and had very fat chainstays so the non-drive side crank arm had to be way outboard to clear them. The OEM bottom bracket was a Suguino cup-and-cone type installed "backwards" (i.e. the long side of the spindle faced the non-drive side) to get the crank to clear. When I replaced it with a cartridge I had to go all the way to 127.5 mm to get the nds clearance but, even at that, the chainline was ok enough to shift well.
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