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  1. #1
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    call me stupid. but where the hell do I install a kickstand

    okay so the sales guy said "an aftermarket chainstayed mounted kickstand will do". But I dont see no holes on the chainstay. where the heck do I mount it......
    or, does he mean a rear mounted kickstand? like all the way to the end of chain stay?
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  2. #2
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    The after market rear mounted stand attaches to the frame.

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    Depends on the bike. If its an older model without QR skewers then the rear wheel axel bolt will do. If its newer and you have the frame mounted version it goes on the triangle going down to the rear wheel. I think the second option is better as it gives more attachment points, and it doesn't get in the way of fixing flats.

  4. #4
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theEconomist View Post
    or, does he mean a rear mounted kickstand? like all the way to the end of chain stay?
    Maybe...these do work so much better than the ones that mount by the bottom bracket.

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    Quote Originally Posted by theEconomist View Post
    okay so the sales guy said "an aftermarket chainstayed mounted kickstand will do". But I dont see no holes on the chainstay. where the heck do I mount it......
    or, does he mean a rear mounted kickstand? like all the way to the end of chain stay?
    There are kickstand models installed onto both chain stays, behind the BB shell, for frames without a bridge (with a bolt hole) in that place. The kickstand has two plates, one below and one above the chainstays (the chain stays are clamped between those plates).

  6. #6
    Lover of Old Chrome Moly Myosmith's Avatar
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    If you install an aftermarket kickstand that has the two plates, above and below the chain stays behind the BB, be darn careful how much torque you put on the bolt as it is entirely possible to dent your chainstays. Not good on a steel bike, worse on aluminum, and devastating on carbon fiber. I have one on my steel touring bike but that is an old Trek 700 with pretty HD high ten chainstays, even then I wrapped some silicone tape around both stays to help keep the plates in place with less torque on the bolt.
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  7. #7
    Can'tre Member 3alarmer's Avatar
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    These other guys did a good job of giving you the information, but
    it appears that they left something out.

    Sadly, it is left to me to call you stupid...............................
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  8. #8
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Of course it's a stupid question - you don't install a kickstand

  9. #9
    Saving gas on my commute Scooby214's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myosmith View Post
    If you install an aftermarket kickstand that has the two plates, above and below the chain stays behind the BB, be darn careful how much torque you put on the bolt as it is entirely possible to dent your chainstays. Not good on a steel bike, worse on aluminum, and devastating on carbon fiber. I have one on my steel touring bike but that is an old Trek 700 with pretty HD high ten chainstays, even then I wrapped some silicone tape around both stays to help keep the plates in place with less torque on the bolt.
    +1 This is sound advice. Surly is quick to recommend that you not use this type of kickstand on their steel frames, for the reason listed above. If thin wall chromoly chanestays get dented, the frame may be ruined. It's surprisingly easy to bend modern chainstays by over torquing the mounting bolt on one of those kickstands.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    Of course it's a stupid question - you don't install a kickstand
    I was going to say, "on your Schwinn Stingray," but this is more direct.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Flying Merkel's Avatar
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    In your garage.

    As far as kickstands go, touring & commuters yes, others not so much.

  12. #12
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    yeah feel free to call me stupid. a plier sure looked very capable to me of cutting a brake cable....until I had to install a brake myself. more tools, more $$$. sigh. thanks a lot on the torque advice! I will be sure to not over wrench it. pretty sure now that is what they were talking about, since there is no bolt holes and real estate in the center is quite expensive. Yeah this is basically a commuting/touring bike. I don't really see myself racing haha.

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