vtjim

I've been having a problem where once I start riding in the snow, my brake power goes to near-zero. I just put new pads on because the old ones were, well, old. I thought changing pads would fix things.

The new pads held great in the garage but I took it out for a test ride through freshly-fallen powder and once again I had no brake power.

So... Is this just a fact of life because of cold & wet, or is there something I can do to improve things?

jeff williams

Rim brakes? Clean your rims.
Also pads are made as wet or dry. Koolstop salmon are a low carbon pad that grips onto the rim.
Being softer, they wear fast. I use a softer grip pad front, carbon pad rear for slowing (brake dragging) Most of your real stopping power is front.

A new set of cables can help if old and stretched. If a cantilever\ yolk system, a shorter yolk or 'joined' yolk will work better than a slot guide yolk.
Also the front cable stop if anchored to the fork, not the headset\stem will increase the amount of force you can pull on the cable (sure seemed to for me!)

This is all redundant if you run disc. But anyway...

https://sheldonbrown.com/brakes/index.html

The longer body Jagwires work for me. They also have cartridge systems to replace just the pad, save the housing.

www.jagwire.com.tw/brakepads_index.htm The server they are on is down this moment, try the link later.

moxfyre

Hmm... what type of brakes are these. The problem I've had is with cantilever brakes, if the pads are too close to the rim, then they clog up snow under and around them, which then ices up. So when you go to brake, your brake pads are pressing against ice instead of aluminum.

Cyclist0383

I've had a problem with LX V-brakes clogging and becoming frozen. I keep a hair dryer in the garage to thaw them.

moxfyre

Latvia, eh? Cool! How cold does it get in Riga... I grew up in Michigan and typically temperatures are -10 to -5 C in the winter, wondering how your weather compares.

I am building myself a fixed gear bike which I will hopefully use a lot in the winters. Sheldon Brown sez that with a low gear they handle really well on ice and you hardly need to brake.

Zouf

If you take out the bike straight out of the garage, it's nice and hot, so any snow that gets on the pads and rims melts, then ices up. Let the bike cool out a few minutes before riding, should help.

Cyclist0383

It gets rather cold, although this year it has been really warm. Today was about +7, with lots of rain and wind. Last year it got down to -30c. Thats the point when I can no longer feel my legs.

vtjim

Thanks for the input. These are rim brakes. Caliper style. "Old school."

The bit about icing up makes sense. I always keep the bike in a warm area so maybe that has something to do with it. Braking power went away almost instantly after I left the garage. I.E., Still in my driveway.

I'll try giving the rims a good cleaning as well. My cables might be stretched also. Could need replacement...

jeff williams

Might consider brake upgrades.
V-brakes require different levers though, more pull.
Adjusting cantilevers is a pain.

lala

I'm surprised no one suggested going fixed!

jeff williams

3 spd coaster brake and calipers.
Unstoppable power....no. other way around.

vtjim

My wife says she's gonna keep an eye out for a good fixie during her yard sale runs this coming summer.

(She picked up my current MTB winter commuter for $12 at a yard sale)

jeff williams

What kind of bike?
I ride on the road with the same mtb I ride trail with...but it has good brakes.
Just v-s, well set up, adjustable short levers and trick pads.

Braking power falls into a different catagory than seat comfort..ya know?

If you can show a pic or link as to the design we may be able to suggest how to maximize the power (yolk lenght, angle to the canti bosses\ post length.)
Some work better than other designs.

2manybikes

If it's below freezing and you get snow on your rims it's a fact of life.

Cooling the bike down first may help. It depends on the temperature.This is very common in the snow if it's cold enough.

If it's below freezing and you ride a long way in the snow you get a little snow on the rims.Then you put the brakes on and make a little water on the rims, as it heats the rims, then it goes right back to ice again, when you let off of the brakes. If you're going to ride much in the snow, if it's below freezing it will happen almost every time. The good thing is in snow you don't really need brakes in a lot of situations,you slow down so fast. If you are going to ride back on the street or a long way on a dry area,just keep the brakes on slightly and ride untill the brakes work again, they will come back, it takes a long time. If you go back in the snow they will probably go away again. Just try and remember it and you may be OK if you are careful.

Do you have steel rims or aluminum rims? Exactly what kind of bike is this? If you have steel rims the same thing is going to happen in the rain.

vtjim

It's an old MTB. I think the rims are steel but I've never had problems when they're wet. Only happens in the snow and sub-freezing temps. I'm going with the ice theory. Snow hits the rims, melts, and freezes over.

dafydd

Doesn't snow much in philly, but when it does, it's wet, clumpy stuff. Last year it snowed a lot, and it was the first time i experience both the cantilevers freezing in place and rims icing over. not a good combo.

Some people suggest carrying a bottle of diluted ammonia with you to spray the brakes/brake pads to de-ice them.

2manybikes

If they are steel rims in the rain you have almost no stopping power. It's very noticable. The ice thing happens to me all the time, after a while you just automatically are more carefull.

Enjoy riding in the snow.

Michel Gagnon

I haven't tried the Jagwire shown above, but for me, Kool Stop Salmon works great all seasons and has the reputation for being gentle on rims.

The pads for v-brakes (either the Thinlines or the BMX) have a pattern that sheds better the snow than the Eagle II pads (the ones on a non-threaded stud). If you have the choice between Thinline and BMX, go with BMX because they last longer.

But still, braking in snow compares to braking in the rain, with two other caveats:
- If the rim is wet then frozen, your wheel will need to turn 2-3 revolutions before the brake pads wear out the ice; then it brakes!
- If you ride in adverse conditions and don't brake for a long time, your brake cables may be frozen.

Basically, I never had any problems with my urban commute, but when I ride to Repentigny or Vaudreuil and travel 5-10 km without braking, I need to plan my stops ahead of time...

Raiyn

I run those same pads. Never had a problem with wet rims.

cyclezealot

We who live in the semi-desert can't relate to wet rims..We don't know how to drive cars ,either...It is crazy when it rains..
So my thoughts about winter, snow/rain...So you get pads that allow you to brake...What about loss of traction on wet slippery roads..Pads can't help that much..
Let alone finding a cool rain uncomfortable riding, I dislike loss of traction...A big factor is telling myself the sun will come out tomorrow...Good day for a ride..

powers2b

I never really appreciated fixed gear bikes until I started riding in the snow.
Now I wouldn't ride anything else in sloppy weather.
If you need to coast but still need a pedal brake try a coaster brake hub.
Enjoy

Zouf

The rims are a big part of your problem. Aluminium rims are a whole lot better in crappy conditions, the steel just glazes over.