Campy Record 10sp (QS) Front Derailleur Cage Replacement Part?
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Campy Record 10sp (QS) Front Derailleur Cage Replacement Part?
Chain suck trashed the outboard (carbon) portion of my 10sp Record front derailleur cage. And, wow, am I ever having a hard time finding a replacement part or ever a full replacement derailleur. I've been looking for a month but everything I find is clamp-on and I need braze-on (I ride an upgraded retro).
Any ideas?
Canabalize a 10sp derailleur's cage? Will that work? Are they interchangeable?
Use an 11sp front derailleur? Will that even work with a 10sp chain? Is the indexing different?
Find a parts dealer? I've already tried Ochsner USA based on a post I found here but no luck.
Any ideas?
Canabalize a 10sp derailleur's cage? Will that work? Are they interchangeable?
Use an 11sp front derailleur? Will that even work with a 10sp chain? Is the indexing different?
Find a parts dealer? I've already tried Ochsner USA based on a post I found here but no luck.
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Lickton's in Chicago offers 10-speed Centaur braze-on front derailleurs for $60: https://www.lickbike.com/productpage....B='0387-32'
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Thanks Greenfieldja. Those didn't come up when I did a search. Probably cause I'm in Canada and those auctions don't ship to Canada.
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You may have to settle for the low-price spread. Lickton does list a 10-speed 2008-vintage Record 10-speed but it was clamp-on only and is sold out. Frankly, front derailleur cage plates seem to me a very poor place to use carbon.
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You could buy a clamp-on derailleur and transfer it to the braze-on base if that part is still good on your existing derailleur. Look at the appropriate replacement parts diagram PDF on the Campagnolo web page and you can see that the two types are mostly the same.
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I put a new Centaur front derailleur on my new build and it works better than the record qs front derailleur I had been using. I am using record shifters and a compact crank.
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Contact Cycles Marinoni in Lachenaie QC. They are the largest Canadian distributor for Campagnolo and have or can get almost anything for your derailleur. Have dealt with them for many years and they are great people. They have rebuilt Ergopower shifters for me while I waited.
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Campy FDs have 2 basic assemblies. The body and the cage with the pantograph arms attached. All the cage assemblies are the same (in same generation), so if you can't find the cage assembly as a spare, but ANY derailleur, and transfer the cage to your clamp on body.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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Yup, that's what I ended up doing. Getting the spring back into place after replacing the cage was a challenge but I ended able to do it with pliers, multiple attempts and lots of swearing.
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Contact Cycles Marinoni in Lachenaie QC. They are the largest Canadian distributor for Campagnolo and have or can get almost anything for your derailleur. Have dealt with them for many years and they are great people. They have rebuilt Ergopower shifters for me while I waited.
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You could buy a clamp-on derailleur and transfer it to the braze-on base if that part is still good on your existing derailleur. Look at the appropriate replacement parts diagram PDF on the Campagnolo web page and you can see that the two types are mostly the same.
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That's good to know 'cause I want to put Campy 10 speed on a CX bike and don't want to use carbon because of how delicate it is.
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My memory is that I was able to transfer everything from the cage back to and including the arms that fit on the two posts. I'll have to take another look when I get back home, just for curiosity's sake.
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I thought I could too but I couldn't figure out how to remove the 2 pivoting that attach to the clamp or braze-on base. The 'pins' are grey tubes and maybe they are threaded on but I can't figure out how to remove them since they don't have a head on them.
Would be a good reference on this forum to have some instructions on how to remove them if you remember how you did it.
Would be a good reference on this forum to have some instructions on how to remove them if you remember how you did it.
#19
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Chromed tempered steel FD cages have worked for a very long time , so Ill have to agree with...
As with many other small parts projects Holding onto things while you work on them, is a big part of the PIA.
Frankly, front derailleur cage plates seem to me a very poor place to use carbon.
As with many other small parts projects Holding onto things while you work on them, is a big part of the PIA.
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-22-13 at 11:27 AM.
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I thought I could too but I couldn't figure out how to remove the 2 pivoting that attach to the clamp or braze-on base. The 'pins' are grey tubes and maybe they are threaded on but I can't figure out how to remove them since they don't have a head on them.
Would be a good reference on this forum to have some instructions on how to remove them if you remember how you did it.
Would be a good reference on this forum to have some instructions on how to remove them if you remember how you did it.
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Unless Campagnolo changed the basic design in the last few years, the pantograph arms, and spring are riveted to the cage as a single assembly. The body has two posts to receive them, and putting them together is very easy once you notice that one of the posts is a hair longer than the other.
I switch cages and bodies routinely, and it's about a 30 second job.
One trick is to push the cage over before taking it off the body, and jamming a pencil between the arms. This preserves the distance so you don't have to fight the spring.
I switch cages and bodies routinely, and it's about a 30 second job.
One trick is to push the cage over before taking it off the body, and jamming a pencil between the arms. This preserves the distance so you don't have to fight the spring.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I suspect, you've never taken a Campy Record or Chorus FD apart. These things are so simple that they can be done blindfolded. The pencil trick helps, but it's still easy without.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Nah, Shimano ones only so far. One took about half an hour of struggle but if I remember right the spring was tighter because the little ally tab it rested on was sheared off and I pulled it apart to put a bend on the end of the spring instead.
Not something that'd happen in a shop, but you can go to some pretty crazy lengths at a co-op
Not something that'd happen in a shop, but you can go to some pretty crazy lengths at a co-op
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In addition, remember to unwind the limit screws. With the limit screws fully retracted, I usually have very little problem putting the two sections back together. As FBinNY stated, this operation can almost be done blindfolded.
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