Unscrewing Cassette on a 'non-quick-release' wheel
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Unscrewing Cassette on a 'non-quick-release' wheel
Hi,
I need to replace a few spokes on a rear wheel which still has the traditional axle with nuts on each end, ie without quick release. Not sure as to what those are referred these days.
In order to remove the cassette, do I need to remove the axle, cones etc? My neighbor - who used to have a bike shop - found that really strange when I briefly described it. But the tools I have to remove the cassette (https://www.racespec.co.uk/acatalog/pro_cassett600.jpg) mean there needs to be a hole in the middle.
I assume I just need a different tool if I want to avoid removing the axle
Is there something easy I am not seeing? Or am I right in assuming my neighbor is used to using a different tool.
Thanks a lot,
Ahil
I need to replace a few spokes on a rear wheel which still has the traditional axle with nuts on each end, ie without quick release. Not sure as to what those are referred these days.
In order to remove the cassette, do I need to remove the axle, cones etc? My neighbor - who used to have a bike shop - found that really strange when I briefly described it. But the tools I have to remove the cassette (https://www.racespec.co.uk/acatalog/pro_cassett600.jpg) mean there needs to be a hole in the middle.
I assume I just need a different tool if I want to avoid removing the axle
Is there something easy I am not seeing? Or am I right in assuming my neighbor is used to using a different tool.
Thanks a lot,
Ahil
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Usually nutted axle means freewheel, which is another beast entirely when compared with freehubs and cassettes. The freewheel puller I have will happily fit over the axle, while the cassette tool won't reach far enough to unscrew a cassette lockring on a nutted axle.
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Yes, sounds like freewheel. Check the inner ring for mfg and model then post here, or even a picture. The freewheel tools like like you picture, but a hole not a pin, and will fit over the axel, nuts and all. Actually the freewheel probably has to be removed before the axle can be pulled. We need a litte more info.
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Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
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Yes, sounds like freewheel. Check the inner ring for mfg and model then post here, or even a picture. The freewheel tools like like you picture, but a hole not a pin, and will fit over the axel, nuts and all. Actually the freewheel probably has to be removed before the axle can be pulled. We need a litte more info.
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#5
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It's a MOOT Point, since you need a tool without the pin if you don't want to remove the axle.
Doesn't matter if it's a free wheel or cassette.
However, if you have a Uniglide hub you'll need 2 chain whips.
Doesn't matter if it's a free wheel or cassette.
However, if you have a Uniglide hub you'll need 2 chain whips.
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whether or not a hub is a freewheel hub or freehub/cassette hub is not dependent in any way on whether or not the axle is hollow. i would determine what kind it is first. a pic might help.
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A picture would let us tell the OP exactly what's needed to remove the gears in back.
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Assuming the original poster has a freewheel, that FR-1.2 should be exactly what he needs, though.
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Yep, that's a Shimano freewheel. The Park Tool FR-1.2 Jeff Wills mentioned above would take it off without having to disassemble anything else.
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Be aware that you are going to have to use some muscle or a cheater bar to undo the freewheel if it has been on there for a while. The freewheel tightens with every pedal stroke as it is ridden. It will be tight.
What I try to do is to ensure the tyre is on the wheel and properly inflated. Then I place the wheel vertically and at right angles to a wall (as though you were wheeling the tyre straight into the wall) to keep it from moving as you apply force to the tool. Preferably, undo the freewheel so the tool is rotating towards the wall.
What I try to do is to ensure the tyre is on the wheel and properly inflated. Then I place the wheel vertically and at right angles to a wall (as though you were wheeling the tyre straight into the wall) to keep it from moving as you apply force to the tool. Preferably, undo the freewheel so the tool is rotating towards the wall.
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Six Hyperglide cogs is a giveaway. Also, the large diameter lockring outside the small cog and the 5 brown plus one black cogs are hallmarks of newer Shimano 6-speed freewheels.
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