Cassette Lockring???
10-20-10 | 09:26 AM
#2
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From: Belgium
You do not have a cassette, you have a freewheel. To remove you will need to obtain a tool such as a Park FR-2 and a wrench big enough to fit over it.
https://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-1
-j
https://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-1
-j
10-20-10 | 09:32 AM
#3
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+1 yup you have a freewheel
10-20-10 | 09:34 AM
#4
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Make sure you know how to use a freewheel remover. There's very torque involved in removing freewheels, and it's easy to break the two driving dogs off the tool.
To prevent mishap, use an axle nut to hold the remover securely to the freewheel so it can't jump out, then as soon as the freewheel breaks free, be sure to loosen or remove the axle nut so the threaded freewheel has room to move out. Otherwise, you'll destroy the axle or bearings, or both.
Many freewheels are on so tight that you won't get them off with a wrench. The best way is to assemble the remover with the axle nut on as I described, put the remover in a vise, then grab the rim in both hands and twist to the left with all your strength. Again, stop once it breaks loose, and back off the axle nut.
BTW- a freewheel remover should cost you less than $10.00, or you could bring the wheel to a bike shop and have it removed for $5.00 or so.
To prevent mishap, use an axle nut to hold the remover securely to the freewheel so it can't jump out, then as soon as the freewheel breaks free, be sure to loosen or remove the axle nut so the threaded freewheel has room to move out. Otherwise, you'll destroy the axle or bearings, or both.
Many freewheels are on so tight that you won't get them off with a wrench. The best way is to assemble the remover with the axle nut on as I described, put the remover in a vise, then grab the rim in both hands and twist to the left with all your strength. Again, stop once it breaks loose, and back off the axle nut.
BTW- a freewheel remover should cost you less than $10.00, or you could bring the wheel to a bike shop and have it removed for $5.00 or so.
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10-20-10 | 09:48 AM
#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
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Removers are identified by the brand of freewheel they fit. Your's looks like a SunTour but check the freewheel itself.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-20-10 | 12:06 PM
#9
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From: New Rochelle, NY
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Bad advice. I hate to post corrections but frewheel removers are heattreated to a high hardness for maximum strength. Unfortunately this makes them somewhat brittle. There's a good chance that the prongs will fracture rather than drive the FW if you hammer on the wrench. A steady hard pull with a wrench that comes out as far as the rim for max. leverage, or the vice and turning the rim are the two ways to go.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-20-10 | 02:40 PM
#10
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Yes, the prongs on the freewheel removers are very hard and delicate. Smashing the wrench with anything could snap the remover and gouge out parts of the freewheel, making removal impossible.
Better to use steady and increasing pressure on the remover. Most of the time, clamping it in a vice would be fine, but I've had freewheels that were so tightly stuck that I've broken vices and bench-tops trying that. Easiest to use a longer lever than the rim (big wrench). And use your weight to apply the force. Aim the wheel so it spins into something stationary and step on the wrench:
Better to use steady and increasing pressure on the remover. Most of the time, clamping it in a vice would be fine, but I've had freewheels that were so tightly stuck that I've broken vices and bench-tops trying that. Easiest to use a longer lever than the rim (big wrench). And use your weight to apply the force. Aim the wheel so it spins into something stationary and step on the wrench:
10-22-10 | 10:31 AM
#12
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FIRST tool to use on that freewheel is a brush - with soap. There's so much crud on it you'd never be able to get a pin extractor to seat fully.
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10-28-10 | 06:32 PM
#14
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From: New Rochelle, NY
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Fixed gear hub / sprocket systems use the same thread for the sprocket, but have a stepped smaller reverse threaded lockring so reverse torque on the sprocket tends to tighten not loosen the lockring, so it's reliably kept in place.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-28-10 | 06:52 PM
#15
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
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+1 to FB and Danno
Why do you want to remove it ?
Pin extractor ? Are you suggesting disassembling the freewheel ?
Why do you want to remove it ?
Pin extractor ? Are you suggesting disassembling the freewheel ?
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 10-28-10 at 06:59 PM.
10-29-10 | 08:18 AM
#17
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Conventional Freewheel-type Hubs
The cheapest way to convert a multi-speed bicycle into a fixed gear is to use the original rear hub, assuming that it is made for a conventional threaded freewheel. A fixed sprocket will thread right on, but there is no provision for a left threaded lock ring.
If you go this route, it is a good idea to use LocTite or a similar thread adhesive. You can use an old lock ring from a British-threaded bottom bracket as an additional safety measure, it is the same thread.
Although you can just screw on the sprocket and put everything together, the chain line will probably be incorrect. If you go this route, you will usually need to re-arrange spacers on the axle to correct the chain line, then re-dish the wheel so that everything will track correctly.
I should mention that there are those who say you shouldn't use a lockring. This theory is based on the fact that if the chain should come off the chainwheel and get caught, a sprocket without a lockring will just unscrew, rather than locking up the rear wheel.
My feeling is that it is better to use a lockring so that you can rely on being able to slow the bike down with your feet, especially if you ride with only one brake.
If you don't use a proper track hub with a lockring, you really should have two hand brakes. If not, a front brake failure followed by a sudden extra effort at "resisting" could break the sprocket loose at the worst possible time, and you'd be toast!
The cheapest way to convert a multi-speed bicycle into a fixed gear is to use the original rear hub, assuming that it is made for a conventional threaded freewheel. A fixed sprocket will thread right on, but there is no provision for a left threaded lock ring.
If you go this route, it is a good idea to use LocTite or a similar thread adhesive. You can use an old lock ring from a British-threaded bottom bracket as an additional safety measure, it is the same thread.
Although you can just screw on the sprocket and put everything together, the chain line will probably be incorrect. If you go this route, you will usually need to re-arrange spacers on the axle to correct the chain line, then re-dish the wheel so that everything will track correctly.
I should mention that there are those who say you shouldn't use a lockring. This theory is based on the fact that if the chain should come off the chainwheel and get caught, a sprocket without a lockring will just unscrew, rather than locking up the rear wheel.
My feeling is that it is better to use a lockring so that you can rely on being able to slow the bike down with your feet, especially if you ride with only one brake.
If you don't use a proper track hub with a lockring, you really should have two hand brakes. If not, a front brake failure followed by a sudden extra effort at "resisting" could break the sprocket loose at the worst possible time, and you'd be toast!
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Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
10-29-10 | 09:42 AM
#18
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Why would you suggest someone use an unreliable, non-optimal system? The purpose of a using a fixed gear is to be able to apply reverse torque to the rear wheel via the pedals. If that isn't the intention, then one is better off with a single speed freewheel and brakes.
It is possible to use loctite to help retain a fixed rear sprocket, if no serious reverse torque is applied, but that somewhat defeats the purpose. The key word in the post was reliably, along with an explanation of the principle involved. So if one wants an unreliable, cheap alternative one is free to do so, but I will never advise it.
BTW- it isn't a case of Murphy's Law but if one relies on loctite to hold a fixed sprocket, it is most likely to fail at the worst possible moment, when you're counting on the reverse torque to stop or control the bicycle. Even if you have a brake, the time and distance lost can become critical.
IMO- only someone who's ignorant or foolish would set up a fixed wheel bike without a track style hub designed for it. Feel free to dis-agree it's only an opinion.
It is possible to use loctite to help retain a fixed rear sprocket, if no serious reverse torque is applied, but that somewhat defeats the purpose. The key word in the post was reliably, along with an explanation of the principle involved. So if one wants an unreliable, cheap alternative one is free to do so, but I will never advise it.
BTW- it isn't a case of Murphy's Law but if one relies on loctite to hold a fixed sprocket, it is most likely to fail at the worst possible moment, when you're counting on the reverse torque to stop or control the bicycle. Even if you have a brake, the time and distance lost can become critical.
IMO- only someone who's ignorant or foolish would set up a fixed wheel bike without a track style hub designed for it. Feel free to dis-agree it's only an opinion.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-29-10 | 11:08 AM
#19
Mad bike riding scientist
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Why would you suggest someone use an unreliable, non-optimal system? The purpose of a using a fixed gear is to be able to apply reverse torque to the rear wheel via the pedals. If that isn't the intention, then one is better off with a single speed freewheel and brakes.
It is possible to use loctite to help retain a fixed rear sprocket, if no serious reverse torque is applied, but that somewhat defeats the purpose. The key word in the post was reliably, along with an explanation of the principle involved. So if one wants an unreliable, cheap alternative one is free to do so, but I will never advise it.
BTW- it isn't a case of Murphy's Law but if one relies on loctite to hold a fixed sprocket, it is most likely to fail at the worst possible moment, when you're counting on the reverse torque to stop or control the bicycle. Even if you have a brake, the time and distance lost can become critical.
IMO- only someone who's ignorant or foolish would set up a fixed wheel bike without a track style hub designed for it. Feel free to dis-agree it's only an opinion.
It is possible to use loctite to help retain a fixed rear sprocket, if no serious reverse torque is applied, but that somewhat defeats the purpose. The key word in the post was reliably, along with an explanation of the principle involved. So if one wants an unreliable, cheap alternative one is free to do so, but I will never advise it.
BTW- it isn't a case of Murphy's Law but if one relies on loctite to hold a fixed sprocket, it is most likely to fail at the worst possible moment, when you're counting on the reverse torque to stop or control the bicycle. Even if you have a brake, the time and distance lost can become critical.
IMO- only someone who's ignorant or foolish would set up a fixed wheel bike without a track style hub designed for it. Feel free to dis-agree it's only an opinion.
If you don't use a proper track hub with a lockring, you really should have two hand brakes. If not, a front brake failure followed by a sudden extra effort at "resisting" could break the sprocket loose at the worst possible time, and you'd be toast!
You also said, flat out, that it couldn't be done. Sheldon Brown disagrees with you. I was pointing that out to you.
__________________
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
