Small tube which runs through BB won't fit.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Small tube which runs through BB won't fit.
I have a small 6" tube which runs through the BB for the FD shift cable. I need to replace it. I have been to a few LBS and can't find a tube small enough. The tube needs to be a tiny bit smaller than what they stock. I have a few pieces which are just a tiny bit too big. Would it be a totally bad idea to drill the entrance and exit hole with a drill bit which is 1/32 larger than the Hole? Also what is the best way to remove the little plastic piece screwed to the underside of the BB which the shift cables ride on. The Phillips head is striped out and I currently have it soaking in PB Blaster.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,089
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4206 Post(s)
Liked 3,870 Times
in
2,314 Posts
What is the frame material? For metal frames a slight over sizing of a small hole is usually quite OK. For carbon much less so.
One factor with these cable guide tubes/sleeves is the long term wear they can see. Some OEM guide tubes are made of a quite wear resistant material where as many of the off the shelf tubes/sleeve are much more flexible and softer. So get a bunch of extra for the future.
As to the under BB cable guide removal, first try to source a replacement guide to use if the OEM one gets messed up. Can you use needle nose pliers or small vice grips to grip the screw head with? You could try to drill and easy out the screw but I'd save this method for the last resort. Next would be to cut away the guide, leaving the screw head standing proud of the shell and then an easy thing to grab with a vice grip.
For reassembly use a stainless cap bolt and anti seize compound. Andy.
One factor with these cable guide tubes/sleeves is the long term wear they can see. Some OEM guide tubes are made of a quite wear resistant material where as many of the off the shelf tubes/sleeve are much more flexible and softer. So get a bunch of extra for the future.
As to the under BB cable guide removal, first try to source a replacement guide to use if the OEM one gets messed up. Can you use needle nose pliers or small vice grips to grip the screw head with? You could try to drill and easy out the screw but I'd save this method for the last resort. Next would be to cut away the guide, leaving the screw head standing proud of the shell and then an easy thing to grab with a vice grip.
For reassembly use a stainless cap bolt and anti seize compound. Andy.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,717
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5788 Post(s)
Liked 2,580 Times
in
1,430 Posts
I'm confused. Generally the FD cable is routed UNDER the BB shell, not through it. The fact that you have a screwed on guide seems to reinforce that this is the case for your bike. So what tube are you talking about, and where does it run?
A photo may help.
A photo may help.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the quick reply. The frame material is carbon but I suspect both ends of the hole which the tube travels through is slightly smaller than the overall diameter of the whole.
The only tubing I could come up with locally is the black tubing which comes in a roll.
As far as the cable guide removal I do have a replacement so I could tear up the old one if need be. I am also thinking of buying one of those bits which you can use to remove stripped Phillips head screws.
The only tubing I could come up with locally is the black tubing which comes in a roll.
As far as the cable guide removal I do have a replacement so I could tear up the old one if need be. I am also thinking of buying one of those bits which you can use to remove stripped Phillips head screws.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sorry I can't post a photo but yes the cable is routed under the BB. Attached to the BB is a plastic plate/guide which the shift cables for both FD and RD rides on. From this plate there is a small tube about the size of what you get with WD40 which goes though the BB and then angles up towards the FD. The small tubing acts as a guide or housing while it runs thru the BB.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,624
Bikes: iele Latina, Miele Suprema, Miele Uno LS, Miele Miele Beta, MMTB, Bianchi Model Unknown, Fiori Venezia, Fiori Napoli, VeloSport Adamas AX
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1324 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
640 Posts
I have a small 6" tube which runs through the BB for the FD shift cable. I need to replace it. I have been to a few LBS and can't find a tube small enough. The tube needs to be a tiny bit smaller than what they stock. I have a few pieces which are just a tiny bit too big. Would it be a totally bad idea to drill the entrance and exit hole with a drill bit which is 1/32 larger than the Hole? Also what is the best way to remove the little plastic piece screwed to the underside of the BB which the shift cables ride on. The Phillips head is striped out and I currently have it soaking in PB Blaster.
Cheers from Miele Man
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,717
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5788 Post(s)
Liked 2,580 Times
in
1,430 Posts
OK, I get it now. The tube doesn't run through the BB. It runs through the web section which encompases the area behind the BB and what would be the chainstay bridge on a steel bike.
The purpose of this is simply to prevent the wire from chafing or scoring the entry at the hole, and sawing the frame apart over 10,000 years. Go to a hobby shop that sells gasoline powered model airplanes and shop for fuel line tubing. Or source Teflon, HSPE, or PVC tubing there.
You can also use electrical "spaghetti" or similar, but I find it to be soft and cause excess friction.
BTW- since it's a carbon frame, I'd save enlarging the hole as an absolute last resort, and would likely run the wire bare before doing so.
The purpose of this is simply to prevent the wire from chafing or scoring the entry at the hole, and sawing the frame apart over 10,000 years. Go to a hobby shop that sells gasoline powered model airplanes and shop for fuel line tubing. Or source Teflon, HSPE, or PVC tubing there.
You can also use electrical "spaghetti" or similar, but I find it to be soft and cause excess friction.
BTW- since it's a carbon frame, I'd save enlarging the hole as an absolute last resort, and would likely run the wire bare before doing so.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,681
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
i find it hard to believe that your LBS doesn't have that kind of thing. my new frame came pre-threaded (for internal electronic shifting i suspect) with about three feet of that stuff for what i believe was to be used for derailler and brake cables or wiring. ya, it's about the diameter of the WD red plastic tube, but mine is/was translucent and much more flexible, they've been using it for years (or something similar) under the BB to protect the frame from cable wear, as noted in a previous post.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 07-13-14 at 07:33 PM.
#9
ot.net slave
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Canberra, Australia
Posts: 571
Bikes: Salsa mtb * 3, Intense mtb * 1, Abeni SS rd * 1, Salsa road/touring * 2, Trek Damn one * 1, Vintage/projects * many
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just take the tube out of a v-brake noodle.
- joel
- joel
#10
Passista
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,598
Bikes: 1998 Pinarello Asolo, 1992 KHS Montaña pro, 1980 Raleigh DL-1, IGH Hybrid, IGH Utility
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 867 Post(s)
Liked 721 Times
in
396 Posts
You can use the lining from a shift cable housing. Cut the plastic cover lengthwise and the longitudinal metal strands will come apart, leaving the inner tube free.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Love this idea. Will get back with you'll later in the week to let you know how it goes. Thanks a lot for all the guidance.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Update. I tried to get the inner lining out of a offcut piece from my 105 set. However getting the metal case from around the lining was super tough. I then found an old Jagwire cable housing which has the individual wires. The inner tube came out super easy and was the perfect size to go through the BB. Bike is back together and am ready to hammer 1st thing in the morning. Thanks again for all the help.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
helpless
Bicycle Mechanics
8
06-07-10 12:04 PM