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Full Hex Key stuck in Allen bolt, cannot remove pedal from bike.

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Full Hex Key stuck in Allen bolt, cannot remove pedal from bike.

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Old 09-15-14, 06:51 PM
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Full Hex Key stuck in Allen bolt, cannot remove pedal from bike.

Hello everyone,
So I got myself into a bit of a jam. I was trying to remove a bike pedal, but the Allen Key got stuck in the bolt. I was eventually able unscrew the pedal itself, using a a 15mm wrench; however, the hex key is still stuck, and as a result I cannot remove the pedal because the loopy thing at the end of the Allen key is too big to fit through the pedal hole.. I'm not really sure what to do. I've tried using WD-40. I've tried pull it out with all my might, but nothing is working. I don't really care about the screw or the pedal. Is my only available option to cut it with bolt cutters? Will bolt cutters be able to cut through it? I've attached pictures to what I'm referring to. Thanks.
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Old 09-15-14, 07:08 PM
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Hex keys are very hard, I doubt that you would touch it with bolt cutters. Grinding through the key will work, though, with something like a Dremel-type tool or an angle grinder. Or sawing the pedal away from the key.

You might try clamping the hex key in a stout vise and whaling away at the pedal with a hammer or hand sledge. Or grabbing the pedal with a pipe wrench and twisting.

Not caring about the items involved lets you give free rein to indulge your destructive.creativity.
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Old 09-15-14, 07:11 PM
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Hold the screw flats with a wrench, then turn the Allen key the opposite way you had been turning it and it should unjam. Failing that use a dremel or angle grinder to cut the hex key off.
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Old 09-15-14, 07:29 PM
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My first move would be to spray it with PB Blaster or any penetrating oil. Then grab
the tool using pliers to pull it out. If that doesn't work; my next move would be to
try whatever tool you have or can borrow first. Bolt cutter, grinder, hacksaw, etc.
If you don't have access to any of these; I would suggest to buy the hacksaw since
that would have other uses in the future and would be the cheapest option.
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Old 09-15-14, 07:34 PM
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Screw the pedal back in the crank. Tap the key with a hammer, or use pliers to turn it in thr direction opposite to how you were previously turning it while holding the pedal with the wrench. Basically, you need the pedal to be solidly held so that you can apply force to the key, and the crank will hold it that way.
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Old 09-15-14, 07:37 PM
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Ya, and if it helps (and it probably will) go ahead & thread the pedal back into the crank arm.

An abrasive cut-off disc in a dremel or die grinder would probably be best and will take a little while to get thru but will do the job.

Good luck!
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Old 09-15-14, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jyl
Screw the pedal back in the crank. Tap the key with a hammer, or use pliers to turn it in thr direction opposite to how you were previously turning it while holding the pedal with the wrench. Basically, you need the pedal to be solidly held so that you can apply force to the key, and the crank will hold it that way.
This. Screw it back in and simply wiggle it with your hand. You don't need penetrating oil, it's not corroded in place. You mechanically force-fit it into place. Now you need to reverse that. Use a hammer if necessary.
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Old 09-15-14, 08:05 PM
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Thanks for suggestions, I'll go out and get some tools right now.
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Old 09-15-14, 08:05 PM
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Put the tools down and back away slowly. J/K

Screw it back in nice and tight. Grab the flats of the key with a small adjustable wrench and crank the screw in a tightening direction while wiggling the Allen key, should pop right out. Now you are back at square one though. Either use a bigger Allen key next try or make sure the edges aren't rounded. You can grind the rounded part away leaving you a shorter but "new" Allan wrench.
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Old 09-15-14, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jyl
Screw the pedal back in the crank. Tap the key with a hammer, or use pliers to turn it in thr direction opposite to how you were previously turning it while holding the pedal with the wrench. Basically, you need the pedal to be solidly held so that you can apply force to the key, and the crank will hold it that way.
Yup
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Old 09-15-14, 08:39 PM
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Holy crap it worked, and I didn't have to buy anything!Thank you so much you guys. I did what most of you suggested and screwed the pedal back in. Afterwards, I put another piece of metal through the key loop, and hammered it out. Thanks, again!
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Old 09-16-14, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by NewWalrus
Holy crap it worked, and I didn't have to buy anything!Thank you so much you guys. I did what most of you suggested and screwed the pedal back in. Afterwards, I put another piece of metal through the key loop, and hammered it out. Thanks, again!
In the future use a pedal wrench or, if you don't have that, a 15mm box end wrench. I hate using hex wrenches on pedals.
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Old 09-16-14, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 1nterceptor
I would suggest to buy the hacksaw since that would have other uses in the future and would be the cheapest option.
A hacksaw blade, unless you buy a carbide one, won't cut through a decent allen key as the keys are too hard. All you do is dull the hacksaw blade. A Dremel with a cut off wheel or an angle grinder are the proper cutters.

In the future use a pedal wrench or, if you don't have that, a 15mm box end wrench. I hate using hex wrenches on pedals.
Not all pedals have wrench flats these days. Shimano's current MTB pedals only have a hex recess at the inboard end of the axle but at least it's 8 mm so you can use a pretty stout hex key.
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Old 09-16-14, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider

Not all pedals have wrench flats these days. Shimano's current MTB pedals only have a hex recess at the inboard end of the axle but at least it's 8 mm so you can use a pretty stout hex key.
I know that but his pedals have the flats. And not all of Shimano's MTB pedals use only hex wrenches. The PD-M520 still uses flats. The M520 also happens to be the best value in Shimano's line. A good, cheap, no nonsense pedal. I've seen them for as low as $25. They may weigh a bit more (about 100g) but they function just as well as the higher end pedals.
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Old 09-16-14, 10:14 AM
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An acetylene torch will do the job nicely

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Old 09-16-14, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I know that but his pedals have the flats. And not all of Shimano's MTB pedals use only hex wrenches. The PD-M520 still uses flats. The M520 also happens to be the best value in Shimano's line. A good, cheap, no nonsense pedal. I've seen them for as low as $25. They may weigh a bit more (about 100g) but they function just as well as the higher end pedals.
Yeah, I was referring to the PD-M780/PD-M980 series and they have the hex recess only. I have the PD-M515 pedals (predecessor to the PD-M520) on a couple of bikes too and they have been solid and reliable but a lot heavier. 100 gms is a big percentage difference in pedals.
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Old 09-16-14, 10:33 AM
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Yeah, and grease those threads and put in pedal washers! It looks just a couple of pedal removals away from stripping the crank.
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Old 09-16-14, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
In the future use a pedal wrench or, if you don't have that, a 15mm box end wrench. I hate using hex wrenches on pedals.
Ditto on that. I ended up with some pedals that ONLY had an 8mm allen socket for tightening and removal. Something about those pedal threads also had a tendency to freeze up despite using grease.

Because of that experience will only buy pedals that can use a traditional pedal wrench. The allen socket should be just a backup.
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Old 09-16-14, 05:13 PM
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Yes, backup is good.

I had a situation once where I met a guy out on a roadside for a CL deal. I was selling him a whole bike, he was paying me some cash and some parts, including a campy crankset, but I didn't want the pedals, so we had to get them off. I had a vintage (read: high quality) campy pedal wrench, but the crankset wasn't attached to a bike, so it was tough to get leverage. Fortunately a hex in the back end, and both of us torquing, and trying to hold it still using cardboard to protect us from the teeth, we finally cracked 'em loose.
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Old 09-16-14, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by silverado8405
Hold the screw flats with a wrench, then turn the Allen key the opposite way you had been turning it and it should unjam. Failing that use a dremel or angle grinder to cut the hex key off.
Originally Posted by jyl
Screw the pedal back in the crank. Tap the key with a hammer, or use pliers to turn it in thr direction opposite to how you were previously turning it while holding the pedal with the wrench. Basically, you need the pedal to be solidly held so that you can apply force to the key, and the crank will hold it that way.
One or both of these are what I would try too.
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Old 09-16-14, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
In the future use a pedal wrench or, if you don't have that, a 15mm box end wrench. I hate using hex wrenches on pedals.

A box end wrench?
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Old 09-17-14, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I know that but his pedals have the flats. And not all of Shimano's MTB pedals use only hex wrenches. The PD-M520 still uses flats. The M520 also happens to be the best value in Shimano's line. A good, cheap, no nonsense pedal. I've seen them for as low as $25. They may weigh a bit more (about 100g) but they function just as well as the higher end pedals.
Yes, I was quite surprised when I received my new Ultegra carbon pedals that Shimano have dropped the ability to install via pedal wrench (but have increased the allen size to 8mm). The 6700s they replaced had both and I much preferred that.

On the fixie, I am using Shimano M520s and have been for years. My latest pair I paid £14.00 for and that's ridiculous value. I may go higher end next time to drop some weight but I'm in no rush.
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Old 09-17-14, 06:11 AM
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This Pedro's 8mm works great on pedals. Lots of leverage, and easy on my hands.

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Old 09-17-14, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by LastKraftWagen
A box end wrench?
Senior moment. Open-end wrench.
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