Full Hex Key stuck in Allen bolt, cannot remove pedal from bike.
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Full Hex Key stuck in Allen bolt, cannot remove pedal from bike.
Hello everyone,
So I got myself into a bit of a jam. I was trying to remove a bike pedal, but the Allen Key got stuck in the bolt. I was eventually able unscrew the pedal itself, using a a 15mm wrench; however, the hex key is still stuck, and as a result I cannot remove the pedal because the loopy thing at the end of the Allen key is too big to fit through the pedal hole.. I'm not really sure what to do. I've tried using WD-40. I've tried pull it out with all my might, but nothing is working. I don't really care about the screw or the pedal. Is my only available option to cut it with bolt cutters? Will bolt cutters be able to cut through it? I've attached pictures to what I'm referring to. Thanks.
So I got myself into a bit of a jam. I was trying to remove a bike pedal, but the Allen Key got stuck in the bolt. I was eventually able unscrew the pedal itself, using a a 15mm wrench; however, the hex key is still stuck, and as a result I cannot remove the pedal because the loopy thing at the end of the Allen key is too big to fit through the pedal hole.. I'm not really sure what to do. I've tried using WD-40. I've tried pull it out with all my might, but nothing is working. I don't really care about the screw or the pedal. Is my only available option to cut it with bolt cutters? Will bolt cutters be able to cut through it? I've attached pictures to what I'm referring to. Thanks.
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Hex keys are very hard, I doubt that you would touch it with bolt cutters. Grinding through the key will work, though, with something like a Dremel-type tool or an angle grinder. Or sawing the pedal away from the key.
You might try clamping the hex key in a stout vise and whaling away at the pedal with a hammer or hand sledge. Or grabbing the pedal with a pipe wrench and twisting.
Not caring about the items involved lets you give free rein to indulge your destructive.creativity.
You might try clamping the hex key in a stout vise and whaling away at the pedal with a hammer or hand sledge. Or grabbing the pedal with a pipe wrench and twisting.
Not caring about the items involved lets you give free rein to indulge your destructive.creativity.
#3
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Hold the screw flats with a wrench, then turn the Allen key the opposite way you had been turning it and it should unjam. Failing that use a dremel or angle grinder to cut the hex key off.
#4
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My first move would be to spray it with PB Blaster or any penetrating oil. Then grab
the tool using pliers to pull it out. If that doesn't work; my next move would be to
try whatever tool you have or can borrow first. Bolt cutter, grinder, hacksaw, etc.
If you don't have access to any of these; I would suggest to buy the hacksaw since
that would have other uses in the future and would be the cheapest option.
the tool using pliers to pull it out. If that doesn't work; my next move would be to
try whatever tool you have or can borrow first. Bolt cutter, grinder, hacksaw, etc.
If you don't have access to any of these; I would suggest to buy the hacksaw since
that would have other uses in the future and would be the cheapest option.
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Screw the pedal back in the crank. Tap the key with a hammer, or use pliers to turn it in thr direction opposite to how you were previously turning it while holding the pedal with the wrench. Basically, you need the pedal to be solidly held so that you can apply force to the key, and the crank will hold it that way.
#6
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Ya, and if it helps (and it probably will) go ahead & thread the pedal back into the crank arm.
An abrasive cut-off disc in a dremel or die grinder would probably be best and will take a little while to get thru but will do the job.
Good luck!
An abrasive cut-off disc in a dremel or die grinder would probably be best and will take a little while to get thru but will do the job.
Good luck!
#7
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Screw the pedal back in the crank. Tap the key with a hammer, or use pliers to turn it in thr direction opposite to how you were previously turning it while holding the pedal with the wrench. Basically, you need the pedal to be solidly held so that you can apply force to the key, and the crank will hold it that way.
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Put the tools down and back away slowly. J/K
Screw it back in nice and tight. Grab the flats of the key with a small adjustable wrench and crank the screw in a tightening direction while wiggling the Allen key, should pop right out. Now you are back at square one though. Either use a bigger Allen key next try or make sure the edges aren't rounded. You can grind the rounded part away leaving you a shorter but "new" Allan wrench.
Screw it back in nice and tight. Grab the flats of the key with a small adjustable wrench and crank the screw in a tightening direction while wiggling the Allen key, should pop right out. Now you are back at square one though. Either use a bigger Allen key next try or make sure the edges aren't rounded. You can grind the rounded part away leaving you a shorter but "new" Allan wrench.
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Screw the pedal back in the crank. Tap the key with a hammer, or use pliers to turn it in thr direction opposite to how you were previously turning it while holding the pedal with the wrench. Basically, you need the pedal to be solidly held so that you can apply force to the key, and the crank will hold it that way.
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Holy crap it worked, and I didn't have to buy anything!Thank you so much you guys. I did what most of you suggested and screwed the pedal back in. Afterwards, I put another piece of metal through the key loop, and hammered it out. Thanks, again!
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In the future use a pedal wrench or, if you don't have that, a 15mm box end wrench. I hate using hex wrenches on pedals.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
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In the future use a pedal wrench or, if you don't have that, a 15mm box end wrench. I hate using hex wrenches on pedals.
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I know that but his pedals have the flats. And not all of Shimano's MTB pedals use only hex wrenches. The PD-M520 still uses flats. The M520 also happens to be the best value in Shimano's line. A good, cheap, no nonsense pedal. I've seen them for as low as $25. They may weigh a bit more (about 100g) but they function just as well as the higher end pedals.
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I know that but his pedals have the flats. And not all of Shimano's MTB pedals use only hex wrenches. The PD-M520 still uses flats. The M520 also happens to be the best value in Shimano's line. A good, cheap, no nonsense pedal. I've seen them for as low as $25. They may weigh a bit more (about 100g) but they function just as well as the higher end pedals.
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Because of that experience will only buy pedals that can use a traditional pedal wrench. The allen socket should be just a backup.
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Yes, backup is good.
I had a situation once where I met a guy out on a roadside for a CL deal. I was selling him a whole bike, he was paying me some cash and some parts, including a campy crankset, but I didn't want the pedals, so we had to get them off. I had a vintage (read: high quality) campy pedal wrench, but the crankset wasn't attached to a bike, so it was tough to get leverage. Fortunately a hex in the back end, and both of us torquing, and trying to hold it still using cardboard to protect us from the teeth, we finally cracked 'em loose.
I had a situation once where I met a guy out on a roadside for a CL deal. I was selling him a whole bike, he was paying me some cash and some parts, including a campy crankset, but I didn't want the pedals, so we had to get them off. I had a vintage (read: high quality) campy pedal wrench, but the crankset wasn't attached to a bike, so it was tough to get leverage. Fortunately a hex in the back end, and both of us torquing, and trying to hold it still using cardboard to protect us from the teeth, we finally cracked 'em loose.
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Screw the pedal back in the crank. Tap the key with a hammer, or use pliers to turn it in thr direction opposite to how you were previously turning it while holding the pedal with the wrench. Basically, you need the pedal to be solidly held so that you can apply force to the key, and the crank will hold it that way.
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I know that but his pedals have the flats. And not all of Shimano's MTB pedals use only hex wrenches. The PD-M520 still uses flats. The M520 also happens to be the best value in Shimano's line. A good, cheap, no nonsense pedal. I've seen them for as low as $25. They may weigh a bit more (about 100g) but they function just as well as the higher end pedals.
On the fixie, I am using Shimano M520s and have been for years. My latest pair I paid £14.00 for and that's ridiculous value. I may go higher end next time to drop some weight but I'm in no rush.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!