Easy out clipless recommendation
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 230
Bikes: '88 Peugot 12 spd road bike, Nishiki hybrid, JC Penney 10 spd
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 61 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Easy out clipless recommendation
Newbie here, second post.
This past year I started cycling more due to weight loss goals(now at 5'10' and ~183.4 pounds). I'm riding my hybrid twice a week about 12-15 miles per ride and hoping to increase. Started thinking at that distance I should switch to my vintage/old Peaugot rode bike. I dusted it off put some air in the tires, put on my shoes/cleats and rode it up and down the street.
That bike scared the heck out of me!!! I hadn't ridden it in about 20 years!
The profile was too agressive, the tires too skinny, the racing seat was doing some weird stuff down there....
But the main problem was my LOOK pedals/cleats. I was having a lot of trouble getting out. I adjusted the tension and the float and that made it better, but still too hard. I guess I should mention I've had both my knees worked on so a little paraniod on the twist out thing.
Anyway, was wondering what's the latest and greatest on clipless? Something that holds secure when riding but easy to get out when you have to?
Any info would be appreciated.
Felix
This past year I started cycling more due to weight loss goals(now at 5'10' and ~183.4 pounds). I'm riding my hybrid twice a week about 12-15 miles per ride and hoping to increase. Started thinking at that distance I should switch to my vintage/old Peaugot rode bike. I dusted it off put some air in the tires, put on my shoes/cleats and rode it up and down the street.
That bike scared the heck out of me!!! I hadn't ridden it in about 20 years!
The profile was too agressive, the tires too skinny, the racing seat was doing some weird stuff down there....
But the main problem was my LOOK pedals/cleats. I was having a lot of trouble getting out. I adjusted the tension and the float and that made it better, but still too hard. I guess I should mention I've had both my knees worked on so a little paraniod on the twist out thing.
Anyway, was wondering what's the latest and greatest on clipless? Something that holds secure when riding but easy to get out when you have to?
Any info would be appreciated.
Felix
Last edited by El Gato27; 12-08-14 at 01:32 PM. Reason: additional information added
#2
incazzare.
The key in my opinion is adjustability. I bought some Shimano PD-A600 SPD road pedals for the first time this year, adjusted them to my liking, and have had zero issues getting into and out of them. As a bonus, you can get SPD shoes with recessed cleats so you can walk on them semi-normally. Great for casual cycling and commuting.
__________________
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18376 Post(s)
Liked 4,511 Times
in
3,353 Posts
Shimano is supposed to have "multi-release" in some of their SPD cleats, although I don't think I've tried them. But they are easier to release.
If you don't use cleats with toeclips, then it is pretty much a down & back motion to extract your feet, no twisting. They look good on a "classic" bike too.
If you don't use cleats with toeclips, then it is pretty much a down & back motion to extract your feet, no twisting. They look good on a "classic" bike too.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,318
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Are these 20 year old Looks that have been sitting as idly as the bike has for the last 20 years? Maybe some lube, and working each foot in and out a few times while holding on to something might help?
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,905
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4806 Post(s)
Liked 3,928 Times
in
2,553 Posts
I just purchased a pair of Crank Bros pedals ans cleats. For me, the release was too easy and I returned them. Much easier than the black (no-float) LOOK pedals I have been using for years. You might like them.
Ben
Ben
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
A few things that can help you. Use the least float cleat that you feel is safe for your knees. The less float, the less you have to twist to release the cleat from the pedal. Black is zero float, gray is 5 degrees, red is 10 degrees (or something close to those numbers). But with bad knees to start with, you will want to be sure your cleats are well positioned before you think about using less float.
Second, try different places around the crank circle to "clip out". Some folks like to have the knee bent, some like to have it straight. The right way for you will make it much easier. There is just no way of knowing what that is without some trial and error.
Third, Look makes a cleat called the "Easy" which has no tension adjustment and is pre-set at minimal tension. It is very "easy" to get out of. Yet I find it secure for a non-racer. And it is light and CHEAP. They are all over ebay for $50 a pair or so, new.
Good luck.
Second, try different places around the crank circle to "clip out". Some folks like to have the knee bent, some like to have it straight. The right way for you will make it much easier. There is just no way of knowing what that is without some trial and error.
Third, Look makes a cleat called the "Easy" which has no tension adjustment and is pre-set at minimal tension. It is very "easy" to get out of. Yet I find it secure for a non-racer. And it is light and CHEAP. They are all over ebay for $50 a pair or so, new.
Good luck.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Speedplay, easy in and out with lots of float, good for troubled knees. I've had 5 knee surgeries and would not ride any pedals other than Speedplay X-series.
Last edited by Al1943; 12-08-14 at 06:00 PM.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
+100. Speedplay X-series (road) or Frog (MTB but really good road pedals) pedals have no spring tension to overcome on release and have a ton of float so they are kind to sensitive knees. They are also double sided so you don't have to flip them over to enter and the Frog cleats work with recessed sole MTB shoes for easy off-the-bike walking.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 932
Bikes: '04 LeMond Buenos Aires, '82 Bianchi Nuova Racing, De Rosa SLX, Bridgestone MB-1, Guerciotti TSX, Torpado Aelle, LeMond Tourmalet 853, Bridgestone Radac
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked 46 Times
in
36 Posts
After moving to a big city a few years ago and constantly getting in & out of pedals for any given ride, I switched to Shimano mountain SPD pedals. I don't care if they don't look right on my old Italian steel bikes...they're just the best thing for clipless city riding.
I bought my most recent set of Shimano M520 pedals from JensonUSA for $25 new. Can't beat that, either.
I bought my most recent set of Shimano M520 pedals from JensonUSA for $25 new. Can't beat that, either.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,083
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4205 Post(s)
Liked 3,863 Times
in
2,311 Posts
+100. Speedplay X-series (road) or Frog (MTB but really good road pedals) pedals have no spring tension to overcome on release and have a ton of float so they are kind to sensitive knees. They are also double sided so you don't have to flip them over to enter and the Frog cleats work with recessed sole MTB shoes for easy off-the-bike walking.
Going to the Speedplay Zero and Light Action brings into the situation the harder entry. These versions use a flat plate spring in the cleat which is more difficult to engage/enter then the round spring stock of the x. Andy.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,925
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1819 Post(s)
Liked 1,693 Times
in
974 Posts
For people who have problems with knees there are issues. You may need float to allow you to pedal without irritation, but that means that you have to rotate your foot more to release from the pedal. if float is not your problem, then a pedal that has less may be better for you
#13
Senior Member
check out the Shimano Clickr series pedals. Said to be their easiest release pedals aimed at first timers. They use the SM-56 multi release cleat, (basically it releases at any angle, not just horizontal). Clipless was always on my bucket list, so when I got back into cycling recently, Clickr's helped me accomplish that goal. My wife joined me in our return to cycling and seeing the benefits of clipless, she too made the attachment jump on Clickr's. I love being able to walk around a bit by using SPD's. While some of the Mountain shoes look pretty toothy, there are more and more casual and touring styled shoes coming out that accept a SPD cleat in a recessed well. I use Shimano RT-82's and love them, they look kinda roadie but are a two bolt setup.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
I agree but I have many customers who don't. The issue with Speedplay X is the larger amount of foot rotation to release from the pedal. As mentioned there's no build up of resistance to make this amount of foot rotation. Some riders have this amount of flexibility or coordination. Some don't.
Going to the Speedplay Zero and Light Action brings into the situation the harder entry. These versions use a flat plate spring in the cleat which is more difficult to engage/enter then the round spring stock of the x. Andy.
Going to the Speedplay Zero and Light Action brings into the situation the harder entry. These versions use a flat plate spring in the cleat which is more difficult to engage/enter then the round spring stock of the x. Andy.
#15
Senior Member
check out the Shimano Clickr series pedals. Said to be their easiest release pedals aimed at first timers. They use the SM-56 multi release cleat, (basically it releases at any angle, not just horizontal). Clipless was always on my bucket list, so when I got back into cycling recently, Clickr's helped me accomplish that goal. My wife joined me in our return to cycling and seeing the benefits of clipless, she too made the attachment jump on Clickr's. I love being able to walk around a bit by using SPD's. While some of the Mountain shoes look pretty toothy, there are more and more casual and touring styled shoes coming out that accept a SPD cleat in a recessed well. I use Shimano RT-82's and love them, they look kinda roadie but are a two bolt setup.
Rode Clickrs for about 9 months! Have since graduated to M540's but still use the Clickrs on my hybrids so one pair of shoes, all bikes......perfect!!
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 230
Bikes: '88 Peugot 12 spd road bike, Nishiki hybrid, JC Penney 10 spd
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 61 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Thanks for the info, will take a look at the Speedplay and Clickr's. Are the Clickr's new? Didn't find them at Performance, Nashbar or Jenson.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
I agree but I have many customers who don't. The issue with Speedplay X is the larger amount of foot rotation to release from the pedal. As mentioned there's no build up of resistance to make this amount of foot rotation. Some riders have this amount of flexibility or coordination. Some don't.
Going to the Speedplay Zero and Light Action brings into the situation the harder entry. These versions use a flat plate spring in the cleat which is more difficult to engage/enter then the round spring stock of the x. Andy.
Going to the Speedplay Zero and Light Action brings into the situation the harder entry. These versions use a flat plate spring in the cleat which is more difficult to engage/enter then the round spring stock of the x. Andy.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
For people who have problems with knees there are issues. You may need float to allow you to pedal without irritation, but that means that you have to rotate your foot more to release from the pedal. if float is not your problem, then a pedal that has less may be better for you
#19
Banned
Never seen any in person but Mavic was selling a shoe-pedal set that was Magnetically connected. Magnets in the pedals .
so you wouldn't pick up Iron shavings & small Hardware pieces walking around..
so you wouldn't pick up Iron shavings & small Hardware pieces walking around..
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 972
Bikes: Cannondale Slate 105 and T2 tandem, 2008 Scott Addict R4, Raleigh SC drop bar tandem
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
My Wife is unable to clip "out" normally, but oddly enough, if she clips out by rotating her heal inwards it works. She has touchy ankles and just cannot clip out by rotating her heal outwards. Give it a try!
Last edited by Number400; 12-09-14 at 02:34 PM.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,083
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4205 Post(s)
Liked 3,863 Times
in
2,311 Posts
This is a common misconception. Speedplay X-seeks pedals will release from any foot angle. You can simply roll your foot off. It's very easy to do but for some people there may be some getting use to. I've ridden X11 pedals more than 12 years. They are much easier and quicker than SPD.
I got my first X's the first year they were out, Within a year I had 8 pairs between me and the wife. If you recall the first generation used an AL body, the cleat spring slots were machined out. In time these slots, or actually the overhang of the body's top surface, would break off. I assumed it was from the work hardening that AL doesn't do well with. Any way this WOULD allow the cleat to release with only rolling my ankle. For some one who "works" their bike a lot through the feet and track stands frequently this pre release (to borrow a Ski Industry term) is not good.
Now I use the second version with the plastic bodies and the TI bow ties. These have proved to be FAR more durable. BUT again I have never been able to roll release ever with this version. I have never found the amount od foot twist to release to be a problem. Just that some of my customers have found this to be problematic. Andy.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Wow! You must have really strong ankles, or badly worn pedals.
I got my first X's the first year they were out, Within a year I had 8 pairs between me and the wife. If you recall the first generation used an AL body, the cleat spring slots were machined out. In time these slots, or actually the overhang of the body's top surface, would break off. I assumed it was from the work hardening that AL doesn't do well with. Any way this WOULD allow the cleat to release with only rolling my ankle. For some one who "works" their bike a lot through the feet and track stands frequently this pre release (to borrow a Ski Industry term) is not good.
Now I use the second version with the plastic bodies and the TI bow ties. These have proved to be FAR more durable. BUT again I have never been able to roll release ever with this version. I have never found the amount od foot twist to release to be a problem. Just that some of my customers have found this to be problematic. Andy.
I got my first X's the first year they were out, Within a year I had 8 pairs between me and the wife. If you recall the first generation used an AL body, the cleat spring slots were machined out. In time these slots, or actually the overhang of the body's top surface, would break off. I assumed it was from the work hardening that AL doesn't do well with. Any way this WOULD allow the cleat to release with only rolling my ankle. For some one who "works" their bike a lot through the feet and track stands frequently this pre release (to borrow a Ski Industry term) is not good.
Now I use the second version with the plastic bodies and the TI bow ties. These have proved to be FAR more durable. BUT again I have never been able to roll release ever with this version. I have never found the amount od foot twist to release to be a problem. Just that some of my customers have found this to be problematic. Andy.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,083
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4205 Post(s)
Liked 3,863 Times
in
2,311 Posts
Ah, so you do rotate some. That makes sense. I thought you were able to release while keeping your feet straight and only roll. Andy.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Sorry if I wasn't clear about that.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18376 Post(s)
Liked 4,511 Times
in
3,353 Posts
On another site, there is a debate on whether people pull up or not... I know that I pull up at least during acceleration and hill climbs, but apparently that isn't universal, and may be more common with slower cadences.
For those people that don't pull up, I've wondered if one could use the old fashioned plastic cleats to basically hold the shoe in place while applying a downward force, and perhaps a minimal forward/back force. Kind of like pedalling on flats, but holding the foot in the right place.
Is it possible that one would get some of the benefits of cleats without actually using the toeclips. Or, perhaps using strapless toeclips.
With the toeclips and straps, they are a pain to get in and out. However, without them, one would simply lift the feet off of the pedals.
For those people that don't pull up, I've wondered if one could use the old fashioned plastic cleats to basically hold the shoe in place while applying a downward force, and perhaps a minimal forward/back force. Kind of like pedalling on flats, but holding the foot in the right place.
Is it possible that one would get some of the benefits of cleats without actually using the toeclips. Or, perhaps using strapless toeclips.
With the toeclips and straps, they are a pain to get in and out. However, without them, one would simply lift the feet off of the pedals.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rumrunn6
Road Cycling
4
05-10-12 10:26 AM
pmalloy
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
6
05-26-11 01:04 PM