How safe to re-use spokes on new rim with 4mm larger ERD?
#1
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How safe to re-use spokes on new rim with 4mm larger ERD?
I want to replace a rim with another while keeping the hub laced to the existing spokes. The new rim's ERD is 4mm larger. This means the spokes will have 2mm less threads threaded. Will this be a problem? It's for a front wheel, so it won't see as much load as a rear and there won't be any dish issues.
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I want to replace a rim with another while keeping the hub laced to the existing spokes. The new rim's ERD is 4mm larger. This means the spokes will have 2mm less threads threaded. Will this be a problem? It's for a front wheel, so it won't see as much load as a rear and there won't be any dish issues.
Last edited by GravelMN; 12-21-14 at 08:20 PM.
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The image below gives you the answer.
If the spokes are now beyond the height in the right picture, 2mm less may still leave them long enough. If they're already to the short side, you don't have 2mm to give up.
However, that's in theory. The reality is that many built wheels with spokes that are too short (like the photo on the left) and they hold up OK for a long time. A nipple failure is the likely MODE of failure, if for example something gets caught in the spokes, but that's no guaranty that there will be a failure in normal use. I've seen many wheels like this fail in the usual way with spokes breaking at the elbows.
IF you are using butted spokes and keep tensions reasonable, oddds favor you. If you're using 2mm plain gauge spokes and crank up the tension they don't.
If the spokes are now beyond the height in the right picture, 2mm less may still leave them long enough. If they're already to the short side, you don't have 2mm to give up.
However, that's in theory. The reality is that many built wheels with spokes that are too short (like the photo on the left) and they hold up OK for a long time. A nipple failure is the likely MODE of failure, if for example something gets caught in the spokes, but that's no guaranty that there will be a failure in normal use. I've seen many wheels like this fail in the usual way with spokes breaking at the elbows.
IF you are using butted spokes and keep tensions reasonable, oddds favor you. If you're using 2mm plain gauge spokes and crank up the tension they don't.
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FB
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
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Thread Starter
The image below gives you the answer.
If the spokes are now beyond the height in the right picture, 2mm less may still leave them long enough. If they're already to the short side, you don't have 2mm to give up.
However, that's in theory. The reality is that many built wheels with spokes that are too short (like the photo on the left) and they hold up OK for a long time. A nipple failure is the likely MODE of failure, if for example something gets caught in the spokes, but that's no guaranty that there will be a failure in normal use. I've seen many wheels like this fail in the usual way with spokes breaking at the elbows.
IF you are using butted spokes and keep tensions reasonable, oddds favor you. If you're using 2mm plain gauge spokes and crank up the tension they don't.
If the spokes are now beyond the height in the right picture, 2mm less may still leave them long enough. If they're already to the short side, you don't have 2mm to give up.
However, that's in theory. The reality is that many built wheels with spokes that are too short (like the photo on the left) and they hold up OK for a long time. A nipple failure is the likely MODE of failure, if for example something gets caught in the spokes, but that's no guaranty that there will be a failure in normal use. I've seen many wheels like this fail in the usual way with spokes breaking at the elbows.
IF you are using butted spokes and keep tensions reasonable, oddds favor you. If you're using 2mm plain gauge spokes and crank up the tension they don't.
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the last few spokes on either side may not even reach, but it's impossible for me to be sure until you've given it your all, made multiple attempts, and failed miserably.
i actually hope it works out.
i actually hope it works out.
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Wait, will you then have misnatched rims? The horror!
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You can use a 1.5mm spoke which will stretch about 1mm under tension and use brass nipples instead of aluminum.
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The brass nipples won't make a difference either. There's no meaningful difference in strength between brass and aluminum nipples IF the spokes reach at least 2-3mm into the heads. 15g brass and aluminum nipples are both slightly stronger than 14g by virtue of the smaller hole, but again not enough to matter when all is right.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#10
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Serious question FB. Do you mean 2-3 full turns, or 2-3 full threads? I ask because as best as I can measure, the entire head only measures 3mm.
Last edited by SquidPuppet; 12-23-14 at 01:47 PM.
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