bicyclelove

Well, after hearing all this I think a tension gauge would be a useful item in my toolbox. Is there a general rule for what tension to set the spokes to? I don't always use a new wheel and usually a really old one so manufacturer specs aren't always available.

bicyclelove

My OCD would go crazy if the wheel had too much wobble! I'm OK with a small amount of lateral movement, (mostly because I'm not that good of a wheelbuilder, Yet) but isn't having the wheel true more important than equal tension? I'll ask you too, what is a general rule for spoke tension?

FBinNY 

There's no one size fits all answer because the rim, rider weight and spoke gauge all play into it.

However here's some general info to use as a starting place. Decades ago Brandt postulated that 80kgf about on target for most wheels. But since then wheels with fewer spokes were introduced, and rear wheel dish increased to where typical R/L tension ratios are often close to 2:1.

So my guidline is to try to maintain 50-65kgf on the left flange, and try to keep the right flange no higher than about 110kgf. A bit of quick math shows that with 2: ratios there's going to be some compromise between getting the left tension high enough, without the right getting too high. Most of the time I solve this by using thinner spokes on the left which gives me more downside latitude, so I can keep the right at or below 110.

Bill Kapaun

Sometimes you simply have to compromise between even tension (per side) and "acceptable" true.

As a ROUGH rule of the thumb, I want the 2 sides to total about 180kgf.

I started out trying to "save" old wheels for CL flippers.
One thing that helped me "visualize" tension was getting a whole bunch of various colored alligator clips.
I'd take a sample tension on a few spokes per side to get an "average".
I'd then measure the tension of each spoke and clip on whatever color I was using for high or low from the average. I had 4 colors, so I'd use a 3rd & 4thcolor as an "appropriate" value such as 3, 4, 5 etc. IF I was running short on clips. I used "1" per division on my TM-1.

dbg

I have a problem with this. I would not put "equal tension" as the first and primary goal. You could have perfect-equal-tension and still have a terrible wheel (not to mention what it implies about DS versus NDS) . First, you need to be above a sufficient minimum tension. After that I would (personally) rank trueness slightly above equal-tension. And that's for a given side. I almost exclusively use OC rear rims to try shoot for more equal tension between DS and NDS.

CroMo Mike 

All this talk inspired me to build another wheel yesterday. And use the spoke tension gauge again.

zandoval 

Have gotten along well without one for years using the Squeez and Ping technique to find loose or overly tightened spokes. My spoke tension gauge is mostly used for solving wheel problems. I am a heavy guy and I ride on rough roads so I am banging the hell out of my wheels on a daily basis. I have been known to use door jams, hammers, fence posts, bench vices, and other implements of destruction just to get a wheel back into round. Then comes the spokes. It makes it much easier to use the tension gauge just to double check what ever I have had to do to get my wheel back into true. Do you really need one... NO.

But drop a hint around Christmas when your love ones are busting their noggin, trying to figure out what to get you for a gift... A spoke tension gauge makes a wonderful gift... And most likely you will probably use it even though you don't need it...